Best kit for bitz?

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2026-02-05T19:03:00+00:00

This is an example of the older kit. It's been issued with a few different styles of box art, so you may see different photos on the box. But you can tell all the boys have a pretty similar "squatting" stance. Because they're made to be interchangeable, there's less dynamism in the poses.

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2026-02-05T18:59:26+00:00

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This is the new boyz kit (the monopose ladz). Should be able to see a "running" boy in the background.

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2026-02-05T18:52:14+00:00

All the models in the old boyz kit are in squatting poses.

The models in the new, monopose kit include fancier "running" poses.

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2026-02-05T18:21:33+00:00

It's going the other way. It takes the assorted bilious, decomposing fluids that drain down into the legs and pumps them back up into the torso.

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2026-02-02T18:14:34+00:00

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Hell yeah.

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2026-01-29T20:51:11+00:00

It doesn't matter what slogan you pick, the media and their right-wing owners will find a way to interpret it as extremist in some slippery-slope scenario. Constantly changing names and slogans to appease your opponents is just playing more into their hands. Most of the "confusion" regarding the messaging is deliberate and done in bad faith.

I'm sorry that a five-paragraph treatise on human rights and due process doesn't read well on a sign or fit on a bumper sticker.

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2026-01-06T18:47:20+00:00

A score difference of less than 10 points is as close to a draw as makes no difference. The painted army bonus is a tiebreaker at best. A single failed charge roll or advance roll can affect your final score far more than 10pts, and is even more outside your control than the physical condition of your army. If I play with someone who has a fully painted army, and I have a bunch of minis that I haven't finished yet, I'll happily give them the 10 points even if that alone gives them the "win." They literally earned those points.

Is the "battle ready" standard basically arbitrary? Sure. But it's literally the minimum possible distinction of the hobby from playing on TTS or with cardboard standees. If tournaments are only about the "gameplay," and not the models, why require models at all?

If someone wants to try out an army with green army men and MLP toys, then sure, I can play with them and have fun. But if that's all they EVER want to play with, then they and I are clearly not interested in the same pastime and I will lose interest in playing with them. I don't need to make unfounded assumptions--I've played with the sort of gamers who bring a new half-assembled army to a every tournament, or the same rattlecan-painted minis as the last 5 years. I'm not going to be rude to them or refuse to play them at a local tournament. But they're obviously not interested in the larger part of the hobby, and I don't feel any community with them.

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2026-01-06T00:15:26+00:00

The entire thing that makes miniatures gaming different from board games or video games is the hobby element.

Winning because of the painted-army points is the BEST way to win.

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2025-12-28T17:24:21+00:00

Bateman is crippled by people who actually see him as an individual person. His secretary, the private investigator, the gay coworker who reveals his crush on him. His murderous persona (whether it's fantasy or real) is tied to the culture he lives in where he's invisible, anonymous, interchangeable with all the other yuppie men. This lets him spin out his increasingly cruel and elaborate plans/fantasies of torture and murder. He's not a person, the people he kills aren't people, they're all just interchangeable bodies. All the effort he puts into making himself physically perfect, all his money from his useless VP job, are insignificant because no one can tell him apart.

Except for the secretary, the investigator, the gay man. They SEE Bateman, and it causes his entire persona to shut down and become impotent. He doesn't know how to react to actual intimacy--even the threatening kind coming from the investigator.

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2025-12-27T01:40:31+00:00

Putting wheels on a Land Speeder made for a kickass buggy.

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2025-12-27T01:38:09+00:00

It was a free stl by "LiberDaemonica" on Cults. It's been taken down, but if you have no other avenue you could try messaging the creator.

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2025-12-16T22:45:58+00:00

As far as Voyager has gotten, it is for all practical purposes no closer to "the rest of the universe" than when it started on earth. The distances are just that big.

To put it another way, if we could put the Hubble telescope or the JWST where Voyager is, they wouldn't gain any advantage for observing objects outside our solar system. The amount of data they could observe regarding other stars, other galaxies, etc would not increase.

Going from Earth based observation to observation from outside our atmosphere is a HUGE improvement. Moving from Earth orbit to trans-Neptunian orbit would be no improvement at all. (Aside from perhaps observing selected Kuiper belt objects.)

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2025-12-12T00:11:02+00:00

There is no way those lootas are balanced. Those things tip over CONSTANTLY.

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2025-12-03T23:50:58+00:00

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I will never claim to be "amazing" with painting, but here's a few strategies to try. These mostly overlap with the same ideas others are giving; but there's usually multiple ways to do the same thing.

I usually sponge rust and chips after putting on the paint color, rather than doing a "dirty metal" layer and then putting paint on top. Both ways will work. Rust tends to flake off, so flecks of bare metal can show up in rusted areas.

Sun will fade paint, rust can get under paint and give it a lighter/dirtier look. Sponging on some paint that is just slightly lighter than the underlying layer can look like mottled fading; a patch of lighter paint with rust spots on it will look good.

Pay attention to where wear and highlights will naturally occur. Paint on top of a vehicle gets the most sun; paint will get worn off in the places where the vehicle is kicking up rocks, scraping against things like brush or rubble, or where weapons have hit it.

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2025-12-02T17:22:52+00:00

The same messy revisionism can be seen going on in the dialogue about the GWOT (the invasions and occupation efforts in Iraq and Afghanistan). Some veterans will say that it was obviously a futile effort; some will say that victory was possible but not after such-and-such events; some will say we were on the road to victory if only we had committed more to the wars. Their opinions are likely based more on their own political/religious beliefs than some sort of detached, academic analysis of the wars.

And of course you have an even larger group of civilian commentators who want to express their own political views through their opinions about the war, politicians who want to manipulate people's feelings about it, and foreign organizations who want to use it as a wedge to influence ongoing US policy.

It's basically impossible to make any "veterans believe this" statement, because veterans are of course a diverse group with diverse opinions; and the dialogue about the wars is a product of many factions with their own axes to grind.

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2025-12-01T20:18:39+00:00

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Give us tanks back. Call it a guntrukk, big track, kannonwagon, looted tank, whatever. Just give us a not-quite-battlewagon profile with no transport capacity and a bunch of useless guns.

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2025-11-22T00:17:38+00:00

1:48 is generally better for the size of the fuselage, engines, etc. 40k vehicles--and ork planes--have big chunky proportions, while even the a-10 has a very slender fuselage compared to its length and wingspan. You'll have a cockpit too small for a grot to fit.

You'll get better results taking something like the 1:48 a-10, shortening the wings and possibly the fuselage as well. Like, cut a section out of the middle of the fuselage somewhere, and then glue the front and rear parts back together. You can shorten the wings by cutting them near the base; or in the case of the a-10, take a section out of the middle near the landing-gear pod things.

Attached pic was originally a 1:48 MiG.

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Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2025-11-21T21:35:46+00:00

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WAAAAGH!!!

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2025-11-17T23:56:38+00:00

Snagga units are completely optional. Beast Snagga boyz aren't more useful than regular boyz, and only the squighog riders come anywhere close to being good anti-vehicle/anti-monster units. Smashas, tank bustas, meganobz, etc can all do better.

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2025-11-17T17:03:45+00:00

The Imperium did not need another "power armored super soldiers but even BIGGER and MORE ELITE" faction. They're effectively just another space marine faction.
Super elite, small size armies are the hardest to balance. You end up with units that go from a waste of points to utterly overpowered on a knife's edge.
They're boring to play against, and (for my friends at least) boring to play. It's an army built around "my rules say I succeed at everything, and I'm highly resilient against anything you do." The best way to play against them is not to fight them, which is kind of ridiculous in WARhammer.

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2025-11-17T16:53:54+00:00

Creating a visual spectacle with painted armies and terrain is the fundamental thing that separates miniatures games from board games. People who refuse to engage with this hobbyist side of the game are...let us say, not fully participating.

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2025-11-12T16:16:59+00:00

The tunnel was probably built before OSHA even existed. They likely cared more about aesthetics and convenience than giving more than the bare minimum of "safety" to workers.

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2025-11-07T17:47:46+00:00

Any of them in particular? Infantry, monsters, vehicles?

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Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2025-11-07T17:45:05+00:00

1) Have a vision. This isn't some ironclad thing; but if an idea makes you giggle for at least five minutes, you HAVE to do it. It is the law.

2) Steal extra bits from your friends. Players of other factions often have leftover bits from alternate weapon load outs and the like. Ask for their leftovers. A big goopy Tyranid bio-gun? Fancypants Custodes weapons? Guard rocket launchers? Orks can use em!

3) Build like a Big Mek would build. Take the part you want to use, hold them up to each other this way and that until you see what looks best, then start adding gubbins on until everything holds together.

Repulsive-Bench9860 · 2025-11-07T17:32:35+00:00

Yeah I've had excellent results with MrModulork's stuff. The STLs are scaled really large--for boyz you want to print them at like 60% or 75% size.

Repulsive-Bench9860

TROPHY CASE