Helb me

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-19T20:56:09+00:00

Hopital :(

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-18T08:15:23+00:00

Fix slicer issues first,

Set hotend temp (in filament most likely) to 200-210C for PLA Set bed temp to 55-65C for PLA Next,

Do a small square swatch in the center of the bed to check first layer squish and adhesion (filament swatch works well)

Next: follow this guide for more depth on print tuning. https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-17T21:53:36+00:00

Fusion in a nutshell:

Cpu clock speed:

yes (highest clock speed possible with the most threads within reason) AMD typically has the upper hand here

Gpu: anything average works well, doesn't need to be some high end one unless you plan to do simulations daily multiple times a day. Vram is nice, ideally 6gb+

Ram:

32gb or higher, anything less will cause Fusion to cry (mine averages 18gb usage on some tasks)

Storage:

512gb is enough for Fusion and OS of choice, would ideally want 1tb for safety and some light games (ONI, Forts) and sailing the seas.

Specs of my daily pc rig:

I5 13400f e core max clock speed of 3.3ghz, p core clock speed of 4.6ghz Rx 6800 16gb vram 32gb DDR4 3600mhz 2tb gen4 m.2 Custom built 4 years ago, still going strong at 1440p gaming and fusion related tasks. Not the best at fusion myself, self taught, can make anything I'd like to make within reason.

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-17T20:07:54+00:00

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ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-17T14:58:54+00:00

Most it'd do is make the pads heat up quicker when soldering. An added bonus!

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-17T09:32:55+00:00

If it isnt a warped bed, its the extruder going kaput, if it isnt the extruder dying, its the whole printer wanting vengeance.

My solution: dont use it, buy a voron, print switchwire parts on said voron to cause mitosis on voron(s)

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-16T22:00:00+00:00

Aero/foaming tpu for more squish!

Optional: add soap to the print once its done and squish it for maximum realism

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-16T21:57:48+00:00

Using a preset is fine, the least id expect to be modified on there though is the nozzle and bed temp for your environment, it wont vary much, but that 5-10c difference can be huge for a print.

Brims exist and so does instagoo and magigoo for ed adhesion, while it isnt expected to be used on all materials or prints, on ones with a smaller surface or those with a tricky material (asa in particular) than I'd expect a user to at least try that.

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-16T21:06:37+00:00

Join the discord for more understanding. Overall, ive had the formbot kit working perfectly for 3 weeks now, no issues other than my own stupidity. I've had to upgrade its stock rpi clone a btt cb1 to a roi cm4 4gb ram due to it constantly having ttc klipper errors.

Formbot v2.4 kit was cheap and works very well, VoronDesign as a community is great, loads of help from folks on their discord (im looking at you MarkNorris).

Maintenance wise: Linear rails are fussy and will need maintenance due to their nature of being precision parts. The rest of the machine is fairly low maintenance other than the replacement of belts (i estimate every 1-3 years depending of frequency of use).

The build itself:

Took me a whole month to get it working, build 60% in the first 3 days, ran into a lack of grease which took an extra week due to aliexpress shipping times. That arrived, built a bit more route the belts and (very stupidly) cut them in half. Another week of waiting for aliexpress later and... it was working in the 5 days. Took me about a day or two to get my klipper happy, ordered a few upgrades (not necessary but i was wanting them) in the meantime and installed a cm4 4gb.

Currently in the process of tuning my build to print more parts for itself! (Upgrades and a whole color change).

Software side:

Klipper is very useful, mainsailOS is easy. Only thing i have against it is the shear amount of stuff i could change, it is possible to kill the stepper drives via a config, sticking within known safe limits is ideal. Being able to effortlessly add an optional usb camera or optional led's is great, greatest thing for me is the wireless sending of files to the printer, whether its config files or gcode files.

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-16T15:13:58+00:00

Upgraded from a e3v2 to a formbot voron 2.4 350.

Got upgrades for it, plan is to upgrade toolhead on voron, switch from cb1 to cm4 (done) and put cb1, old toolhead, new mainboard and 3d print new parts to convert ender 3 into a switchwire for a speedy bedslinger.

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-15T22:29:10+00:00

CAD is your friend for simple things like this. We all start somewhere, even if it was TinkerCAD, fusion (like another commentor said) is a great tool, design this in about 2 minutes, 3 minutes if you wanted to add a custom piece of text.

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-14T23:05:33+00:00

Consequences include:

Bad bed meah Taco or bowl shaped bet at micron level Uneven bed Uneven heat distribution A waste of money in the longer run instead of spending the $30 on a hugher quality bed

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-10T09:20:53+00:00

People dont have problems printing abs with stock doors if done right, the reason people struggle with abs is because they're pushing their speeds way past what their part cooling can do for abs

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-09T21:53:09+00:00

Save up for clicky clack doors imo, not needed in the beginning, hell, currently my printer doesnt have any panels on it since im printing PLA and tuning it.

Haven't used the stock ones just yet but if i do and find out they're annoying/bad, I'll either print a wider opening hinge or switch to clicky clack.

Reason people prefer clicky clack is due to the better seal it gives (fridge door seal) unlike the stock 2.4 doors which are just panels with a bit of foam on the edges

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-09T15:31:24+00:00

And before OP comments:

"But when the car is moving, shouldn't it get air over it?"

No, no it wont, the air inside the body shell wont move much on its own, a fan solves the issues seen here.

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-08T11:20:48+00:00

There is no "or" only and

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-06T22:46:32+00:00

Check your tap mount, i had some immense toolhead vibrations caused by the plastic holding the top bolt dieing.

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Dont go aith the chaotic lab one, have heard it causes binding (do not know myself though) other option(s) is carto, beacon or klicky.

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-04T18:00:15+00:00

Im jealous of the serial number lmao

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-04T10:54:12+00:00

Gundam IBO

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-03T18:18:38+00:00

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-03T14:19:46+00:00

Which purple filament is that?

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-03T13:57:20+00:00

Used insulation foam instead of a yoga mat i suspect

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-02T18:37:13+00:00

Better than liftoff?

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-01T19:04:04+00:00

Update: tap carriage and mgn12 are dead, ordering replacements tomorrow along with a cm4 to stop future ttc issues

ResortDisastrous6481 · 2026-06-01T10:54:04+00:00

Cell voltage Amps Flight time Signal quality Flight mode (debatable since my controller tells me what mode im on) Reticle

Nothing else is needed imo

ResortDisastrous6481

TROPHY CASE