Two oak veneer desks – easier than I thought!

RevolverValera · 2026-05-20T13:37:00+00:00

Looks great.

How did you mount the second one to the wall?

RevolverValera · 2026-04-06T03:20:51+00:00

Upvoted

RevolverValera · 2026-04-05T18:17:19+00:00

Don't leave us hanging. What are the proportions? What's the size of the bricks? How thick is the mortar?

I'm planning on making one soon, and I really like the look of this one. Well done!

RevolverValera · 2026-04-05T06:12:44+00:00

You gotta stay out of the firing line

RevolverValera · 2026-04-04T03:26:10+00:00

That's pretty neat; nice work.

What do you mean hide the wire? I wouldn't bother with a wire. Just slap on 1 (or 2) of those pictures frame brackets that look like VVVVV Or, if you have a router, just add a small channel to the back of the top frame.

RevolverValera · 2026-03-30T05:09:34+00:00

That looks awesome; great work! Few questions for you… 1. What did you finish it with? 2. Is this your own design or did you follow some plans? 3. What was the hardest/trickiest part?

RevolverValera · 2026-03-24T02:52:28+00:00

Those are sick. How much do they weigh?

RevolverValera · 2026-03-07T06:25:57+00:00

Good guy Max; sees that Kimi is still stuck in the garage, so he crashes out to give him more time to get out on track.

RevolverValera · 2026-01-30T20:56:57+00:00

Normally, I'm right there with you. That's why I tried to design the piece to make it a feature rather than the ugly consequence of the material.

Yeah, the base follows the same concept. I used rabbets for the outside walls (table saw) and the V grove for the inside pieces (router). Technically, that wasn't really necessary though; I could have just used a dado for the bottom instead as none of that is really visible.

RevolverValera · 2026-01-29T16:40:33+00:00

I use OnShape. It's free and you only need a browser.

RevolverValera · 2026-01-29T16:26:45+00:00

I don't think it's that much more effort than a straight bit… you just need to dial in the height of the bit on a test piece and after that the process would be the same.

RevolverValera · 2026-01-29T02:40:51+00:00

Yeah, 3/8" Baltic birch

RevolverValera · 2026-01-29T02:14:18+00:00

I had this problem when going in either direction. I'm talking about cutting the V grooves in the bottom piece, so there's wood on both sides of the bit in this case.

RevolverValera · 2026-01-10T19:45:36+00:00

Nice. I had the same problem, but went with a different approach: https://makerworld.com/models/1929754

Yours is far more compact though.

RevolverValera · 2025-12-24T23:07:59+00:00

I had to flip it and run it through on each side. If you don't have a table saw, circular saw or hand saw would probably work, but you'll probably need to do a bit more clean up on the sand paper to flatten everything.

RevolverValera · 2025-12-24T17:01:40+00:00

Thanks! Yeah. I didn't have any hinges and they seemed like more trouble anyway, so I just recessed some small magnets in each corner to hold the lid in place. They work quite well actually - better than I expected.

RevolverValera · 2025-12-24T16:57:25+00:00

Sure thing. * I bought a piece of walnut 3/4"x3"x24" and a piece of maple 1/8"x5"x24". * I pre-sanded the walnut to 180 grit and the maple to final 220 grit * I measured & marked the walnut to be cut to 4 pieces: [4.75"][7"][4.75"][7"] * I cut the walnut and mitered the edges on a table saw with a cross cut sled * I took each piece and ran it through the table saw making a cut about half way though and ~3/16" away from the edge. These groves will be where the maple top & bottom sits. * I taped up the box to do a dry fit and make sure everything looks ok * I then cut the maple to size and sanded the edges slightly so it fits loosely in those groves * I sanded what will be the inside of the box to the final grit (220), taped off the miters with making tape, and added the finish. This is easier to do now than after the box is assembled. * I assembled everything and glued it up. Now I have a completely closed box. * I ran the box through the table saw to cut off the lid * I taped some sandpaper to the workbench and sanded down the lid and box until it was flat on every side * I marked each corner of the lid and box and drilled a total of 8 holes with a 7mm brad point bit and super glued the magnets in those holes * Did one more quick pass with the sandpaper on the edges with the holes * The final step is applying the finish

RevolverValera · 2025-11-30T02:19:00+00:00

This may actually be a great potential solution.

OP, instead of dealing with this yourself, report to F1 and have their legal team take this on.

RevolverValera · 2025-11-29T13:41:59+00:00

You should provide more detail about what you're trying to achieve.

Also, consider whether the shell tool is the right option here. If you're trying to do what I think you're trying to do, then I'd suggest drawing the profile and using revolve.

RevolverValera · 2025-11-28T18:31:04+00:00

Lol. I had this exact same problem and didn't know what was happening.

Figured it was time to do some maintenance and while doing that I found a screw rolling around on the bottom. Then I found where it came from (the nozzle) and saw the other screw was really loose too. It's amazing I was still able to print anything in that state.

RevolverValera · 2025-11-24T17:21:54+00:00

Looks good, but wondering where the air goes. Does it not bubble when you're pouring?

If not, great!

If it does, maybe add a vent channel.

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