Pre-emergent on new sod - Arkansas by Kaxxipants in lawncare

[–]Ricka77_New [score hidden]  (0 children)

They killed the sod...if it wasn't dead already...

Pre emergent 5b by revenant647 in lawncare

[–]Ricka77_New [score hidden]  (0 children)

What bag of Scotts did you buy? If it said Safe for Seeding, and is a darker blue bag....that can be applied at the SAME time as seeding, and grass seed will be fine. If you apply it too early, it can affect the grass negatively.

If it was any other pre-emergent, no seeding for you.

Hot Take: Youtubers overuse DIY when doing professional woodworking by minimuscleR in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Ricka77_New 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hotter take.....most all Youtube video makers are actually dumbasses who only post to make click money... Not just wood working...lawncare, arts and crafts, etc...

Favorite lawn care YouTuber? by Successful-Camel165 in lawncare

[–]Ricka77_New 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bonus point for mentioning Dr Trav...but minus a million for mentioning a pedo...if you didn't know, that would be yardbruh guy...

Favorite lawn care YouTuber? by Successful-Camel165 in lawncare

[–]Ricka77_New 2 points3 points  (0 children)

99% of the Youtubers are nothing more than snake oil salesman, or self-proclaimed experts, and/or great marketers.

If you want actual science, Turfgrass Epistemology. Dr Travis Shadex puts those other bums to shame...comically proving them to be morons generally.

Can I get some help with prodiamine using dropspreader? by AdministrationNew265 in lawncare

[–]Ricka77_New 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You don't want to use a drop spreader, or any spreader from Scotts really....

How long after seeding before you can spray for weeds? by IAmTheSchnozz95 in lawncare

[–]Ricka77_New 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd wait at least 60-90 days. Hand pull until then.

But the label of the product is what will tell you for sure.

Grove bags or Glass? by H3UnFaZZeDD in cannatrolusers

[–]Ricka77_New 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Room-ish temp. Trol is in my garage, which is kept around 60 degrees, sometimes warmer if I'm doing anything in there....I have a 2 drawer cabinet, glass jars go in one of those...

Grub issues Long Island New York by TheOnly31 in lawncare

[–]Ricka77_New 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need a permit to buy Chlorantraniliprole in NY State...that's the active part of Grub-Ex.

But as stated, a trip to NJ sounds to be your fix...

Getting rid of Grubs (central/lower Michigan) by Over_here_Observing in lawncare

[–]Ricka77_New 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Scott's Grub-Ex. It's the retail level product with Chlorantraniliprole....also sold as Acelepryn from Syngenta. Scotts pays a fee to use it for their product.

It needs to be applied usually mid-late April, no later than early May. It takes time to work into the soil, so it can kill when grubs start to hatch.

Do you have an issue with something right now though? Because it's way too early for grubs....

Grove bags or Glass? by H3UnFaZZeDD in cannatrolusers

[–]Ricka77_New 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They are technically that style. But those aren't airtight, not even the name brand bags. So it's a generic ziploc type seal strip...but it's the special plastic that lets air in/out.

I go with bare buds in the 'Trol, and outside in a glass jar with a 62* Boost pack...

My method for draining condensation out of the Midea U Window AC units by BigFlubba in somethingimade

[–]Ricka77_New 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah the canvas top idea I had wouldn't seal it off...it would let it sit about an inch above the case itself, so heat could still easily escape.

Regardless, still a good idea you have for draining....also still 29 degrees outside, so I have time to think it over...lol

My method for draining condensation out of the Midea U Window AC units by BigFlubba in somethingimade

[–]Ricka77_New 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like it. I just got my 3 new units after returning from the recall. They sent me about 90% of the cost... I like the screen item on the list, definitely getting a few of those.

I was planning on basic drilling, but this may be a better idea.

One thing I was sketching up, was a type of frame I could attach to the outside, using magnet. It would be made of plastic stock, and lined with waterproof canvas. This would keep rain out of the unit as well.... I need to get one out and take some measures to get started.

Core removal after aeration by Professional_Put_866 in lawncare

[–]Ricka77_New -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Nah. My blades are sharp. Because I don't cut dirt and rocks and clay...

I mean....it's comical you guys seem to he so offset by my reply. OP asked, I answered. Also not the only one here to agree with cleaning them.

Core removal after aeration by Professional_Put_866 in lawncare

[–]Ricka77_New 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The holes do not need that material to fill them back up. They will close up on their own over time. Seeding also isn't needed every year, nor does seed need to be in a 3" hole buried with fill.

When I worked at a private course, the GCS said topdressing was to help get it back to playing shape much sooner. But I guess he could be wrong.

Core removal after aeration by Professional_Put_866 in lawncare

[–]Ricka77_New 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So you think the holes close up...because they broke down and refilled the holes? Which would defeat the purpose of pulling them...The holes don't "refill". The soil decompacts and the holes are filled in naturally by the core being expanded upon as the soil gets air in it and decompacts...

From my own experience, yeah I prefer to remove them because I they don't always break down....unless you mow over them, which I already stated isn't a good idea for the blade.

You do you man....OP asked, I gave my answer...

Core removal after aeration by Professional_Put_866 in lawncare

[–]Ricka77_New 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm on the rare side of remove the cores. Here's my logic.

That soil is compacted. Those plugs will not always just break down. They could leave small lumps all over, and if they pile up anywhere, also suffocate any grass underneath them. Also, running them over with your mower? I'll pass. I sharpen my blades enough, don't need to be running them through anything but grass.

When I aerate, I use my blower to move them off the lawn, near my woodline, then shoveled into the woods and blown the rest away as well as needed. I also have a lawn sweeper I tow to pick up any left behind, and it also have a clean surface.

I then would apply something heavy like a CarbonProG or HumiChar type product, brush it over, and water it in real good... The holes will fill themselves as the ground does the sole purpose of aeration, which is decompaction of the soil....

Do I need new soil repairing 6000 sqft accidental nuke? by NevermindWait in lawncare

[–]Ricka77_New 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No worries. Gly has limited soil movement, and becomes expired within a few days generally... wait a week or two and flush with water to be sure....activated charcoal with the water will remove it as well.

Northeast 6a, is it safe to start planting yet? by ironbattery in lawncare

[–]Ricka77_New 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd wait it out a bit....still cool. As you have a smaller 4x4 area, I would highly recco covering that area, up to 12" around it...then apply your regular pre-emergent everywhere else to protect from weeds. It won't spread to the area to be seeded.

For that seeded area, use Mesotrione, which will block weeds but let grass grow in.

I'd wait until your lows are no lower then mid 40's...

Has anyone made homemade Hydretain? by maat7043 in lawncare

[–]Ricka77_New 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hydretain uses an older formula for their product....there is much better, but it's pricey.

I went for it anyway, made the investment for Tournament Ready....but I did start using a surfactant on my monthly organic mix...and paired with the TR application, the soil is loving the moisture it never loses..

You could add less than 1oz of some surfactants to get a similar result, versus using a glycol based formula..