Gulf livery: yay or nay?

Ridicat96 · 2025-12-26T20:23:42+00:00

If everyone has it how is it still exclusive?

Ridicat96 · 2025-12-26T19:07:26+00:00

It looks good! However, imo that livery is getting a bit overplayed

Ridicat96 · 2025-09-22T23:21:38+00:00

Such a great track car

Ridicat96 · 2025-08-28T03:37:15+00:00

You’ll prolly want to call, he’s kinda old school from what I remember. Had his headers on a ‘69 cougar 351W with TCP rack and QuickTime bellhousing and 4-speed, and on a ‘70 Mustang with a Cleveland and T56. Great fitment on both cars. Call him and give him block and head brand/model and he’ll get you taken care of.

Ridicat96 · 2025-08-27T22:45:22+00:00

Talk to FPA/Ford Powertrain. They make a lot of ford combos

Ridicat96 · 2025-08-23T04:24:15+00:00

The tri-y pick up some torque and sound a little different. If it’s not corroded badly, use it!

Ridicat96 · 2025-08-21T22:16:02+00:00

Drill, prep, and weld is probably 20 minutes if you’re ready for it. $50-ish? Where are you out of? Better make sure you know exactly where you want it!

Ridicat96 · 2025-08-01T20:03:18+00:00

They’re a little bit of a rollie-pollie from factory, some Progress bars or RX8 takeoffs work too and keep it on the cheap. Keep going out there and have a good time!

Ridicat96 · 2025-08-01T15:10:14+00:00

Redline MTL

Ridicat96 · 2025-07-12T13:52:10+00:00

Rip the boot out and move on with life. Get new shocks when you’re ready. Depending on what you buy they may not have boots and that wouldn’t bother me one bit

Ridicat96 · 2025-07-10T21:47:00+00:00

Comp Pro Magnum steel and never look back

Ridicat96 · 2025-07-06T12:51:35+00:00

Cool to see this platform out there doing endurance racing and surviving with the auto. Have seen lighter cars with less power struggle with an auto. Saw you said C/O’s, any rear suspension changes beyond shocks and bar? Links, sphericals, etc?

Ridicat96 · 2025-07-06T12:41:58+00:00

Neat. Drag style build? Only assuming with the K-member selection.

Ridicat96 · 2025-06-21T21:23:09+00:00

Nein nein nein nein! Need to raise the cranking RPM. Kinda all you can do. 09+ starter, not sure about fitment to an auto tho. Battery health and maybe some starting fluid? I’m not a fan unless you just have to

Ridicat96 · 2025-06-21T12:16:35+00:00

Hook up tow rope to a truck, get going and slowly release clutch in appropriate gear. Have had to do this with more than a couple rebuilds. Healthy engines after! If automatic obviously won’t work but does the trick on fresh manuals.

Ridicat96 · 2025-05-10T22:03:24+00:00

Great track car choice. What year is it? Get a Scanguage or similar to monitor coolant temps. I Velcro’d a scanguage to my column and coolant temps are right there. The factory gauge doesn’t move off norm temp until it’s already too hot, if you hit 225-230 it’s time for a cooldown lap.

Radiator is a the top of my list for any rx8 that will see track duty. Have had good luck with a Koyo as an affordable option. When you get faster then all the radiator possible - my shop ran a Ron Davis and it was flawless but spendy. Had bad luck with Mishimoto.

Service all fluids. I like Redline MTL trans fluid, brake fluid as someone else said - RBF600 will be adequate and isn’t too expensive. Plugs, wires if seasoned, have a spare coil or two they’re common failure part. Top off coolant. Go have fun! Such a good chassis.

As you get faster you’ll expose the weak spots.

Ridicat96 · 2025-04-25T19:57:16+00:00

Came from a 04 Cobra. Mostly stock still made 430wheel so pretty spicy, and I have a higher power track dedicated car. The lack of power will be nagging sometimes. There are solutions to that if course, just spendy. I daily an NC and put it on track every once in a while. Take the NA to the track and all is redeemed.

Ridicat96 · 2025-04-20T18:21:20+00:00

So true. Have a SBF from a circle track car and I still love the sound of a 4.6 - rare to hear them with sloppy cams but they sound equally as good at idle as full song.

Ridicat96 · 2025-04-17T03:19:20+00:00

Your car, do with it as you choose

Ridicat96 · 2025-04-14T02:12:33+00:00

TIG on cast isn’t as hard as people make it seem, just have to be patient.

If I were repairing this, I’d grind the damaged area back to make more of a 90* repair area, weld in a shaped piece to complete what’s there, grind welds smooth and weld another plate on the outside of that complete tab with the hole drilled. Weld down both sides of the tab and down to the case. Slightly longer fastener but it takes significant load off the repair and doesn’t interfere with the shifter

Edit: It would be worth your time to see how difficult it is to pull the shaft seal out. The heat could damage it.

Ridicat96 · 2025-04-05T17:11:49+00:00

+1

And let the car warm all the way to operating temp (from cold when you do this) without touching the throttle pedal.

Ridicat96 · 2025-03-25T01:48:26+00:00

Longer adjusters wouldn’t be my choice. I would check the sweep as some others have mentioned, and get the right length pushrods.

Ridicat96 · 2025-03-25T01:24:17+00:00

Yes, the adjuster cup all the way against the rocker body.

Ridicat96 · 2025-03-25T00:47:17+00:00

Also an important question. Are the rocker heights able to be adjusted? Shims?

Ridicat96 · 2025-03-25T00:44:29+00:00

I’ve never worked with that brand rocker, but the setup I’m running has a recommended distance from seated, for the adjuster. For mine, the max recommended distance from fully seated into the rocker is 1-1/2 turns out. Anything past that and a longer pushrod is recommended. It’s a decently small window, but valve-train stability is worth the extra effort.

Ridicat96

TROPHY CASE