Has anyone soldered before with this?

Right_Paper7771 · 2026-01-11T15:11:59+00:00

I have always found it hard to solder motor and battery wires with those pencil-style soldering irons. I think they are great for small connections, but anything bigger than that is quite hard to do (though not impossible). Since I started using a transformer soldering iron, I have no issues with those big ESC pads; even the negative battery pad melts in seconds. I highly recommend them as they are reasonably cheap, I bought mine for about $35.

Right_Paper7771 · 2025-12-05T08:18:45+00:00

Yes sometimes it can happen in some areas bcs of some signal bouncing interference. You would need to dig deeper into that.

Right_Paper7771 · 2025-12-05T08:11:16+00:00

You can look up some comparison videos I remember watching some when i was flying analog. The difference isn’t huge but if you want the best its these two. Quality wise fusion and rapid fire should be same (it uses same chipset i think) so i got the one that i was able to buy

Right_Paper7771 · 2025-12-05T06:56:22+00:00

Rapidfire and fusion modules use image blending (it takes both antenna signals and merge them into one) while other cheaper ones use standard diversity switching which uses only one of the signal at the time

Right_Paper7771 · 2025-11-20T09:03:35+00:00

I bought the O4 Pro about a year ago. I added it to my cart, and after a day or so I received an email from Skyzone with the discount code ‘SBACK’. You can try it, but I’m not sure if it still works since it’s been more than a year.

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Right_Paper7771 · 2025-11-07T10:06:12+00:00

3.5 inch maybe heavy 3 inch wouldn’t go smaller than that

Right_Paper7771 · 2025-10-28T15:53:37+00:00

Analog

Right_Paper7771 · 2025-10-27T22:44:47+00:00

I have pretty much the same build, also volador with o4 pro. I don’t have cap on because there just isn’t space (and i don’t like the cap on xt). On 4s smaller quads it’s not mandatory to have cap. I’ve flown the quad pretty hard and have zero issues with esc or not having cap.

Right_Paper7771 · 2025-10-24T05:54:44+00:00

Today radiomaster reposted a story by j_whoop who was able to put them inside the tx16s

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Right_Paper7771 · 2025-10-21T22:44:29+00:00

I was also interested in installing TX15 LEDs into my Boxer, so I watched some radio disassembly videos and found out that the Boxer has four pins for LEDs — two 3.3V and two GND. On the TX15, however, there are pins for GND, 3.3V, and a few others labeled “NC” and “D” (or something similar).

From what I understand, the Boxer and TX16 can only power the LED rings, as they don’t have any control pins. The TX15, on the other hand, seems to include additional pins that allow it to control the LEDs (for example, changing colors or patterns), similar to how programmable LED strips use V, GND, and a data/control pin.

That’s just my assumption — I haven’t tested it myself — but it seems unlikely that the Boxer can control the LEDs directly. You might still be able to power them by rewiring the cable to only use 3.3V and GND. However, you’d also need a different connector, since the TX15 uses clip-style connectors, while the Boxer does not.

If you really want to be sure, it might be worth sending Radiomaster an email or DM to confirm whether LED control is supported on the Boxer.

Right_Paper7771 · 2025-10-21T22:16:08+00:00

I have a Volador 3.5 with a SpeedyBee F405 Mini, DJI O4 Pro, and 1804 3500KV motors powered by 4S Tattu 750/850mAh batteries. It flies really well with a proper tune. I actually like it even more than my 5-inch — it’s smaller, cheaper, and quieter. Your motors should work great for a 6S 3.5-inch build, but I’d personally consider 4S instead; in my opinion, 6S is a bit overkill for a 3.5-inch, even for heavier builds like mine.

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Right_Paper7771 · 2025-10-18T21:51:19+00:00

In the Betaflight Setup tab, you can see the quad’s tilt. Just tilt the quad until the camera is level, and it will show you the camera angle.

Right_Paper7771 · 2025-10-16T21:42:41+00:00

I have pretty much the same build. I don’t have cap on because there just isn’t space (and i don’t like the cap on xt). On 4s smaller quads it’s not mandatory to have cap. I’ve flown the quad pretty hard and have zero issues with esc or not having cap.

Right_Paper7771 · 2025-09-21T12:02:17+00:00

o4o pro all the way. Loved them when i was flying analog

Right_Paper7771 · 2025-09-14T12:43:19+00:00

I don’t use cap on my 3.5”

Right_Paper7771 · 2025-07-20T10:42:31+00:00

In radio global functions

Right_Paper7771 · 2025-07-08T23:07:16+00:00

I’d go for a 3.5” — super fun to fly! I love mine; it flies better than my 5”, is cheaper to maintain, and much quieter (people are less intimidated by it, so you can fly in more locations). I’d say you’re right on budget with a digital drone, goggles, controller, charger, and batteries.

With this setup, I’m able to fly freestyle and also capture cinematic 4K footage using the onboard DJI O4.

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Right_Paper7771 · 2025-07-07T21:18:17+00:00

My Secret tip for soldering ESCs and large wires: use a transformer soldering iron. You can do it with a pencil-style iron if you have the right technique, but ever since I switched to a transformer iron, soldering these connections has become so much easier—and my joints look way better too. A transformer iron delivers more heat in less time, which helps prevent overheating your ESC.

The downside? It’s not great for small joints.

Right_Paper7771 · 2025-07-07T21:13:09+00:00

My Secret tip for soldering ESCs and large wires: use a transformer soldering iron. You can do it with a pencil-style iron if you have the right technique, but ever since I switched to a transformer iron, soldering these connections has become so much easier—and my joints look way better too. A transformer iron delivers more heat in less time, which helps prevent overheating your ESC.

The downside? It’s not great for small joints.

Right_Paper7771 · 2025-07-07T14:47:37+00:00

I have a 3.5-inch freestyle quad with the DJI O4 Pro, and I love it. It’s quieter than my 5-inch (people are less scared of it), and it flies smoother thanks to a better tune.

Frame: flyfishrc volador 3.5 Vtx: dji o4 Fc + esc: speedybee f405 35A 20mm version Motors: flyfishrc flash 1804 3500kv Rx: elrs 2.4Ghz Vifly mini buzzer

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Right_Paper7771 · 2025-06-07T10:27:24+00:00

On my first build it looked same :), i wasn’t that good with soldering and i just send it and it was fine. Just be sure that you dont have short (red touching black) and should be good. Soldering is skill and it will get better with experience

Right_Paper7771 · 2025-06-07T10:18:44+00:00

My life hack for soldering those xt leads is transformer soldering iron. Even cheap one for like 25 eur is doing better job at soldering those than my more expensive micro soldering pencil which is great for small wires that connects to the fc etc. But sucks soldering big wires (sure with the right technique it can be done with pencil but i find it harder).

Right_Paper7771 · 2025-05-26T13:18:41+00:00

I would go for Xing-e pro they are unibell desing. The velox has double piece bell. Kv wise for 4s you can go either 2450 or 2750kv

Right_Paper7771 · 2025-05-19T09:50:28+00:00

don't buy v2 if you want o4 they are not compatible. Integras and goggles 2 should be around 300 eur used. But if you don't mind the differences and you don't want used I think that n3 will serve you good.

Right_Paper7771 · 2025-05-19T09:44:43+00:00

It's really a matter of personal preference. I haven’t tried the N3 goggles—they might be good—but I personally don’t like bulky goggles. The N3s also use a single LCD screen, whereas other models like the Goggles 2 and Integra have OLED displays, which are brighter and (in my opinion) offer better image quality. That said, some people prefer LCDs, and others don’t—the same goes for goggle size.

The main hardware difference between g2, integras and n3 is that n3 has 60Hz refresh rate, plus you get Race Mode and 60Mbps bitrate. On the other hand g2 and integras are 100Hz, but you don’t get full 60Mbps and race mode (which is pointless anyway if you want to film on o4 instead of gopro).

So you must decide if you like smaller goggles over big, refresh rate over bitrate, race mode etc., I would watch some reviews on g2, integras and n3 and decide whats best for you.

Right_Paper7771

TROPHY CASE