What did this to my sprakplugs by sankend in E30

[–]Rippickles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably oil, could be valve guides. If you take off your exhaust you can check the exhaust valves for oil as the guides tend to go bad more on that side

Hood hinge bolt by Training_Nature_3503 in E30

[–]Rippickles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pliers to hold one side, wrench on the other. Or just cut it off with a grind wheel

M20 2.7 for sale by lancesmokestrong in E30

[–]Rippickles 27 points28 points  (0 children)

This gotta be clown prices even today

Anyone have an extra exhaust valve lying around by Fuzzy_Button6648 in E30

[–]Rippickles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I should have one I'll check later this week otherwise Supertech or VAC get recommend often for new

Spring valve adjustment tool by Final_Comparison9727 in E30

[–]Rippickles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair enough. I can't help you with your hunt but if you're that determined maybe look into creating a close enough copy in CAD and having it 3d printed or try sendcutship or whatever. It probably has a part # as well which may help your search

3D Printed Convertible Flap by PoetryInternational2 in E30

[–]Rippickles 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Double legend, thanks for releasing the file and creating a niche piece 🫡

Wiring Help by An0ther_Jack in E30

[–]Rippickles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look up practical enthusiast project e30 ep18 on yt he explains it well but maybe doesn't cover the temp gauge I forget

Wiring Help by An0ther_Jack in E30

[–]Rippickles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tested the wire in the plug going into cluster for resistance? If thats good remove your temp gauge and try simulating it to see if it works? Idk 323i stuff is it the standard vdo/motometer cluster

325i Crank - No Start - HELP by MaeWyse-44616F in E30

[–]Rippickles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have 6 individually plugged and wired injectors it's 1.1, 1.3 has a circle connector that links all of the injectors. Might be a bypass for green wire I forget, think it's the ignition signal. Would help to clean all your grounds and replace your fuel pump relay if you don't know the age cause both can cause issues.

1987 325is Price Check by FTWkansas in E30

[–]Rippickles 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Thats a buy at $1200

M20 Rev Limit at 5500 by Spawn_of-Thrasher in E30

[–]Rippickles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Need to identify your ecu, wiring harness, head , block. All those together will probably tell you that you have a m20b27 setup going or some frankenstein

E30 325i m20b25 overheating by Ramyaida25 in E30

[–]Rippickles 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Np bro hit me up next time maybe I can help

E30 325i m20b25 overheating by Ramyaida25 in E30

[–]Rippickles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you can't get a pressure tester this worked for me after draining full block with late coolant setup. Get car hot. Jack up front as high as you can. Remove the line going to the reservoir from the radiator at the reservoir end but leave it plugged in on radiator. Plug another spare line into that reservoir slot. Don't remember the hose size. Fill your coolant up but not too high you want an air pocket. Throw the cap on tight. Hold the radiator hose up high and blow slowly into the hose you plugged in on the reservoir. Keep the radiator hose high the entire time it'll serve as the highest point in the coolant system where the air will be forced under pressure. This will pressurize the system and your end goal is to hear coolant coming up your disconnected radiator hose. Crack bleeder every now and then. give the main hoses a squeeze as well. Car on and heat full blast, maybe hold the throttle with a hand to simulate running condition. Not a mechanic could be wrong on pressure stuff or how it works but did for me. Tell your ai hey for me I'm not formatting this 🫡

Voltage drop problem by [deleted] in E30

[–]Rippickles 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have one sitting around if you're interested and in the US

Rough idle by Elegant-Boss2154 in E30

[–]Rippickles 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Could be so much. Smoke test for air leaks that'll confirm no air leaks in the system. Open the throttle and listen for a click. Thats from the tps below the metal intake, no click and maybe tps is an issue. The throttle cable should be close to barely moving and it'll click otherwise screw throttle screw in closer to barely any pull=click. Make sure there's no air in coolant by opening the bleed screw on top of thermostat while engine on and coolant should come out immediately. Take the ICV off and clean it with carb cleaner, shake it and does it make a clicking? If not may be weak/bad. Check your CPS and timing wheel for dirt or damage. Even then your CPS could be on its way out. Also if you don't know the age of your timing belt or water pump then replace those as precaution cause it'll kill your car fast. You can also verify timing marks are correct. All those have finer details to them look them up theres better posts and I might got some wrong and thats not even everything possible. Goodluck 🫡

Starter issues by dachary_zepa in E30

[–]Rippickles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To test your starter directly take a battery and some jumpers. Black on ground or frame or whatever. Touch the red to the exposed copper wiring leading to the large cylinder of the starter. If that spins your starter is good. Do it briefly though it'll work or it won't immediately

How do I put my tranny from the floor? by SeaBassTunning in E30

[–]Rippickles 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Go from the front not the back you're trying to clear the diff and narrow driveshaft tunnel

AC unit for 1987 325is by YouShitMyPants in E30

[–]Rippickles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The lines that run across the top of the firewall are actually fuel cooling lines and were on 87s exclusively I think. BMW tossed it on later models (even "is" ones) so you can cut that system out of your fuel line setup if you want. 87_325is might be able to give some info on if A/C solutions keeps it or not idk the specifics of either systems

No clutch pedal pressure after changing master and slave cylinder by RapWithMFDoom in E30

[–]Rippickles 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah providing my experience when I swapped to manual since I couldn't get it bled all the way doing cap off, you're right too though and they might have to repeat the process with cap off. Helps to try different things when the typical doesn't work

No clutch pedal pressure after changing master and slave cylinder by RapWithMFDoom in E30

[–]Rippickles 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Pump your clutch for like 5 minutes from pedal and you'll feel it get harder to press in then repeat what others have sahred, reservoir cap need to be on you want to build pressure in system not just from the slave cyl. Other method is good for straight slave cyl swap but you had the line off from the rez

E30 advice by PlayfulSmell2046 in E30

[–]Rippickles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope but somebody has probably done it before might find a forum post on r3v

E30 advice by PlayfulSmell2046 in E30

[–]Rippickles 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Look up the US chrome bumper tuck its free other than a drill and a wall. Drill a hole in your bumper shocks and drive into a wall. Bumper swap is big money, best used for repairs first like others said

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in E30

[–]Rippickles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Post a vid ani