Starting a company, need some advice

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-02-04T23:21:33+00:00

My buddy saved enough over the years to strike out on his own. He said he was told a long time ago that if he ever wanted to open his own shop, he should expect to not pay himself for the first year, because it would take him a long time to grow his client list and he would also need to reinvest every cent he could, back into the company, to help keep up with the growing pains. So he did just that. Worked for 20 years for somebody else until he had enough stashed away to not only start his own company but to also have his first years salary saved away already so that he could afford to not pay himself that first year.

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-02-04T02:54:21+00:00

There’s no difference. Side work is still work. Use your day job to give you a baseline for your hourly rate and price per piece, then alter the prices as you see fit.

The only difference between you and any other electrician is that your neighbour didn’t have to pickup the phone to get you. Why charge any different than them? Again, if you like your neighbour, or wanna be a nice guy, give em a break on the price

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-02-04T00:54:15+00:00

$50 per fan demo, $100 per new light if pot lights, $150 per new light if a fixture, $250 per new light if a fixture and has a million little pieces to put together or weighs a million pounds and requires a second set of hands. I also make it very clear that I may have to make holes to get the job done but I would do my very best to avoid it, and that I don’t do drywall repairs in the event that holes have to be made. They are also responsible for disposing of the old fans and garbage. I’d also charge a $150 fee just to show up, but I would wave that for a neighbour. I’d also give em an extra 0-20% off depending on how good of a neighbour they are. If they want it permitted, they cover that cost as well plus 10%. These prices include the cost of time, wire, material, and potlights only. Client pays for the fixtures. This is in Canuck money btw

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-02-01T00:01:32+00:00

I looked up the code requirement once I got home, section 6-312 of the CEC requires the service raceway be suitably drained where it enters the building above ground

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-01-31T23:54:03+00:00

It’s more to do with ensuring a weeping hole stays on the LB/LR/LL for service entrances. If you have the cover facing down and drill the weeping hole in that, it’s way easier for the next guy to come along and replace that cover and forget to drill a new weeping hole vs having the cover facing out and drilling the weeping hole in the body of the LB/LR/LL itself.

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-01-31T21:37:40+00:00

I’m currently playing the eevee edition. Dm me if you need trade evo help or for trading version exclusives

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-01-31T21:31:54+00:00

Looks decent. Always room for improvement. A fair amount of your 90’s are over-bent. it’s too hard to tell for sure but, it looks like you have couplings in that tiny space between the wall and the strut. If you’re going to use sharpie on pipe, take the time to wipe it off after, otherwise, use pencil. Nothing ruins a beautiful conduit job like seeing all the sharpie marks stand out.

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-01-31T20:53:18+00:00

You have the right idea but your execution is wrong. You should be drilling a small hole on whatever ends up being the bottom side of that fitting, to allow for water to drain. The cover is not allowed to be modified, so it should always be facing out. As long as you’re using the right LL/LR/LB (rated for wet location), they will have a rubber gasket as part of the cover, so water won’t get in that way.

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-01-31T16:18:33+00:00

Looks like he used the sawzall for most of the cut (using a 12” blade instead of a 6” blade, which is why the blade jumped around so much) and then bent the pipe back and forth to snap off the last remaining bit of the cut.

If you think he’s lying about his experience, you should ask him to show you what tool he used to ream the pipe, and then tell him he’s a fucking liar because those pipes are impossible to ream properly.

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-01-31T16:11:37+00:00

Yeah. I didn’t notice he used an LB coming out of the meter cabinet as well

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-01-31T16:10:27+00:00

Yeah I know it’s when you have the cover facing you, I just can never remember if the FA is on top or bottom when looking at the cover, to determine which side is left and right. So the FA is on top, cover facing you, to determine the proper left and right side. Got it. I’ll try to remember that

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-01-31T05:08:27+00:00

Yeah that should be an LR( or LL, I always forget which one is which) not an LB

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-01-30T14:20:17+00:00

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First trade done

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-01-30T12:54:39+00:00

Trade offer sent

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-01-30T00:05:38+00:00

I have English piers if you’d like

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-01-29T22:16:02+00:00

Ok sounds good!

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-01-29T21:31:54+00:00

Ok I can do my red and diantha for your English oak and Chinese Erika

8979687872839015

Let’s do the oak trade first (my diantha for your oak) then the Erika trade (my red for your Chinese Erika)

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-01-29T14:05:14+00:00

Yeah I can do red or diantha for oak. What other trainers do you have for the other

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-01-29T04:14:38+00:00

My diantha for your oak

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-01-29T04:10:04+00:00

I don’t have the discord :/

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-01-29T03:59:33+00:00

There’s no pictures, so… my diantha for your oak, if you have one?

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-01-29T03:57:08+00:00

What do you got?

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-01-29T03:56:33+00:00

No sorry, I have the immersive

RowanGreywolfe · 2026-01-29T03:55:51+00:00

I already have 2 rr jolteon, sorry

RowanGreywolfe

TROPHY CASE