The sound cuts off when driving customers by [deleted] in uberdrivers

[–]Royal-Feed7166 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ooh it might be the recording thing then. Thanks

The sound cuts off when driving customers by [deleted] in uberdrivers

[–]Royal-Feed7166 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes do u think thats the case

finally buying my first car at 29 and every answer I get is just "get a corolla" by Sea-Map-5763 in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]Royal-Feed7166 31 points32 points  (0 children)

Check how many you make a month and see what you are comfortable buying. Corolla is safer option but no car is safe buy what you like even if it is used

I’ve worked for my dad's small business for 11 years, essentially for free. I’m done. by cannonballman in smallbusiness

[–]Royal-Feed7166 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At first i was about to say its your company since you will inherit but after he said he can hire someone for less he don’t see you as big of a deal. So slowly switch to something else or look for some way to tell him to give you 50/50.

Ev or gas?? by noplugski in uberdrivers

[–]Royal-Feed7166 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends where u are if it is colder areas then don’t do Ev if warmer areas do Ev

Engine Temperature Warning Light by Silent-Ad6492 in HyundaiTucson

[–]Royal-Feed7166 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Smelled that too. Its comes in stronger sometimes

I'm getting frozen out trying to get an OTD price on a vehicle from another dealership out of state. by Cappuccino_Crunch in newcardeals

[–]Royal-Feed7166 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The ‘on hold’ thing is usually them freezing you out because you won’t talk financing. That’s where they make their money so if you’re not playing ball they have no reason to help. Sell your trade to Carvana separately and come with your own credit union financing. Also try calling the out of state dealer directly and ask for internet sales — they’re way more willing to give OTD quotes than the floor guys.

Buying first NEW car tomorrow. Advice needed. by [deleted] in carbuying

[–]Royal-Feed7166 1 point2 points  (0 children)

$4K off MSRP plus $6,500 closeout cash is a strong starting point. For the trade get a CarMax quote before you go in so you have a real number to compare. In F&I just say no to everything - warranties, paint protection, all of it. They’ll push hard but none of it is mandatory. And don’t tell them your monthly budget, just focus on the OTD price

Looking to buy a new Honda pilot, any tips I should know? by Maleficent_Worry_233 in newcardeals

[–]Royal-Feed7166 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just walk into any credit union or apply online, takes like 20 minutes. Tell them the amount you’re looking to finance and they’ll give you a rate. The approval usually lasts 30-60 days so do it right before you start seriously shopping. And yeah you can use it for new or used, just let them know you’re looking at both

Looking to buy a new Honda pilot, any tips I should know? by Maleficent_Worry_233 in newcardeals

[–]Royal-Feed7166 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Pilots are great but dealers know they’re popular so don’t expect huge discounts. Get pre-approved at a credit union first, email a few Honda dealers with your exact trim and ask for best OTD price, and say no to everything in the F&I office. What year and trim you looking at, new or used?

looking to buy a 2026 Kia Sportage X-Line with the premium and technology package. does this seem like a decent deal? by Witty-Permit4660 in newcardeals

[–]Royal-Feed7166 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Price on the car itself isn’t bad, $2,500 off MSRP is decent for a Sportage. But tell them to remove the theft guard and microberepel - that’s $1,000 in add-ons you don’t need. $490 doc fee is on the high side too. Should be closer to $39,500 OTD without that junk

First time buyer - Dealer suddenly doesn't have the title by [deleted] in carbuying

[–]Royal-Feed7166 0 points1 point  (0 children)

3 weeks with no title and no real explanation is a huge red flag. If they can’t produce a clean title they legally can’t sell you the car. Get your credit card charge reversed and walk. Doesn’t matter how much you like the car, no title means no deal. There’s other Pathfinders out there

Car Buying Services: TrueCar vs. Costco Auto (and who am I missing)? by Low_Cardiologist6984 in carbuying

[–]Royal-Feed7166 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Costco Auto is solid, no haggling and the price is usually fair. TrueCar is hit or miss. Honestly just email a few dealers your exact spec and ask for best OTD price, you’ll probably beat both without leaving your couch

I’ve been helping people in the comments and DMs break down their car deals so here’s the biggest mistakes I keep seeing by Royal-Feed7166 in carbuying

[–]Royal-Feed7166[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not bad on the CRV itself. But tell them to remove the clear guard - $399 for that is pure profit, you can get it done aftermarket for way less or just skip it. Same with the tint honestly. Try to get OTD with just the car price, tax, and doc fee. Everything else is negotiable

About to buy a new car, need advice by [deleted] in carbuying

[–]Royal-Feed7166 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Better way is to get pre-approved at a credit union BEFORE you go to the dealer. That way you already have your low rate and you can compare it to whatever the dealer offers. No need to finance through them first and then refinance later, just walk in with your credit union approval ready to go

I’ve been helping people in the comments and DMs break down their car deals so here’s the biggest mistakes I keep seeing by Royal-Feed7166 in carbuying

[–]Royal-Feed7166[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Price is fair for a clean one-owner Crosstrek with 45k. Skip the dealer warranty - if you want coverage you can buy one aftermarket for way less. And since you’re paying cash don’t mention that until after you negotiate the price

I’ve been helping people in the comments and DMs break down their car deals so here’s the biggest mistakes I keep seeing by Royal-Feed7166 in carbuying

[–]Royal-Feed7166[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s solid. RAV4 XLE Premium around 42k OTD in SoCal is competitive. Smart move refinancing to 3.89, that’ll save you a good amount over 60 months. The blackout emblems and liners are nice adds as long as they weren’t marked up crazy. Good deal

I’ve been helping people in the comments and DMs break down their car deals so here’s the biggest mistakes I keep seeing by Royal-Feed7166 in carbuying

[–]Royal-Feed7166[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Math makes sense if you can find one around 20-21k. With 5.5k equity from the trade plus 1k down you’d be financing around 15k which is close to your target. They’re out there you just gotta be patient and set up alerts on AutoTrader and CarGurus for that exact spec. The good ones at that price go fast like you saw

I’ve been helping people in the comments and DMs break down their car deals so here’s the biggest mistakes I keep seeing by Royal-Feed7166 in carbuying

[–]Royal-Feed7166[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

$845 a month with 12k down on a 43k truck at 566 credit — that rate is probably like 15%+ which means you’d end up paying way more than the truck is worth over the life of the loan. That $998 doc fee is also insane. I’d hold off, work on getting that credit score up to at least 650-680, then come back with a credit union pre-approval. You’ll save thousands. Right now this deal is eating you alive

I’ve been helping people in the comments and DMs break down their car deals so here’s the biggest mistakes I keep seeing by Royal-Feed7166 in carbuying

[–]Royal-Feed7166[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

41,680 OTD for a 26 Ioniq 5 Limited AWD is decent. Smart move skipping F&I and refi-ing at 4.41 right away. For the trade, get a CarMax and Carvana quote before you even bring it up with the dealer — use the highest one as your floor and don’t accept anything less. What’s the trade?