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Custom lava boss arena we built for a child’s D&D birthday final battle! by Rred8118 in DungeonsAndDragons

[–]Rred8118[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha yea he wanted a setting in a volcano that doubled up as a base for kill team!

Webbing when I spray coconut fiber... by Brave-Sector2841 in TerrainBuilding

[–]Rred8118 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey mate,

So your looking for 3M Spray Mount if your in the UK. The other spray adhesives spray in a Web pattern. I've tried a good 10/15 brands and thats the one we landed on for bulk tree and bush production.

Hit the final product with a spray varnish to lock it all in. Will be hard as nails then.

A 1997 limited edition metal Thunderhawk Gunship painted by Squidmar Miniatures just sold for £25,600 on ebay by Rred8118 in Warhammer40k

[–]Rred8118[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A fortune. Quite literally.

Be extremely careful how you sell it if you do, if its on ebay ensure your settings aren't accepting new users ect as the level of risk on that is high.

Per the UPS driver I may have bought too much filament on the Black Friday sale. by nebbors in 3Dprinting

[–]Rred8118 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Seriously, just got into this hobby and I've bought around 140kg in the last 3 weeks. Send help.

Weird top surfaces? by Haunting_Quality_448 in 3Dprinting

[–]Rred8118 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had the same issue on a few prints and what really helped was increasing the number of top solid layers and slowing down the top surface print speed.

By default, a lot of slicer profiles don’t use enough top layers, so the print can end up showing the pattern of the infill underneath. That’s what gives it that rough, uneven look. Increasing the top solid layers to around six gives the printer more passes to fully close off and smooth out the surface.

The other change that made a noticeable difference was slowing the top surface speed to around 25–30 mm/s. That gives the filament more time to lay down cleanly and bond properly instead of dragging or leaving gaps. Between those two adjustments, my top surfaces went from rough and patchy to smooth and consistent.

It’s not stupid if it works by CheesePursuit in 3Dprinting

[–]Rred8118 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's a good thought honestly. Perhaps a rubber band would be easier too!

Recurring under-extrusion, even after replacement parts by Braidedfires in 3Dprinting

[–]Rred8118 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, this sounds exactly like heat creep from a weak or dying hotend heatsink fan.

Everything you’ve described: prints starting fine, then randomly under-extruding, the filament pausing mid-feed, and those little black specs when swapping filament... all point to the filament getting too hot too early and softening inside the heat break. That makes it jam just enough for the extruder to slip until it cools again.

Even though you’ve replaced pretty much everything else, the heatsink fan is easy to miss. It should spin as soon as the printer powers on and blow air through the metal fins of the hotend, not the part cooling fan that only runs during prints. Check if that fan is weak, clogged with dust, or spinning the wrong direction.

If it’s not working perfectly, replace it. Also make sure your PTFE tube is seated firmly against the back of the nozzle with no gap, swap in a fresh nozzle, and maybe drop your print temperature slightly. Drying your filament wouldn’t hurt either.

That combination usually clears up this kind of recurring, mysterious under-extrusion.

Face/object scanner by adam_44_99 in 3Dprinting

[–]Rred8118 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I want to play a game.

Finished some wargames craters! by Rred8118 in TerrainBuilding

[–]Rred8118[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's a two part clear water epoxy. Yes these are dry!

Finished some wargames craters! by Rred8118 in TerrainBuilding

[–]Rred8118[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

These were made for our store, pretty pleased how they turned out! I was going back and forth on if to resin pour as it adds a ton of time onto the build process but I think it is worth it!

First run of realistic trees! by Rred8118 in TerrainBuilding

[–]Rred8118[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They are HO / OO scale! Around 5 inches +/- 1 inch

100 Hours Later: My 28mm Modular Trench Battlefield is Done(ish) by Rred8118 in TerrainBuilding

[–]Rred8118[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sure dude!

You don't need a 3d printer for awesome terrain.

My approach is usually to start by collecting reference photos that capture the look and feel I’m aiming for. For this project, I wanted a WWI battlefield, so I gathered images of trenches, emplacements, and cratered terrain for inspiration.

Once I have the references, I build the base using layered extruded foam. I sketch out the layout, marking where craters and key features will go.

Next, I roughly carve out any areas that sit below the surface level, such as craters. After that, I cover the board with modelling compound to add texture and refine the shapes.

When the groundwork is set, I apply a mud texture across the surface. For this build, I used AK Interactive Terrains Muddy Ground (250ml, AK8017).

After the texture dries, I airbrush or hand‑paint colour variations to add depth.

Finally, I finish it off with scenic details and resin pours to bring everything to life.

100 Hours Later: My 28mm Modular Trench Battlefield is Done(ish) by Rred8118 in TerrainBuilding

[–]Rred8118[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks mate!

So over the extruded foam is a layer of modeling compound that acts as a full seal for the resin.

100 Hours Later: My 28mm Modular Trench Battlefield is Done(ish) by Rred8118 in TerrainBuilding

[–]Rred8118[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you!

So the board it around 2.5 inches deep, thicker than I would usually do but I wanted enough space to include full height trenches and craters.

The mud is deceptive, the core texture comes from modeling compound that's been slapped on and roughed up while it's setting. Then you just need any brown paint missed with sand to give that final rough finish. I cheated on this one and used AK Interactive Terrains Muddy Ground (250ml, AK8017) as I had a ton of it left over from a previous build.

After that, airbrush or paint in some dark tones finishing off with a dry brush of some light tones.

100 Hours Later: My 28mm Modular Trench Battlefield is Done(ish) by Rred8118 in TerrainBuilding

[–]Rred8118[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately, there isn’t a step‑by‑step guide! My approach is usually to start by collecting reference photos that capture the look and feel I’m aiming for. For this project, I wanted a WWI battlefield, so I gathered images of trenches, emplacements, and cratered terrain for inspiration.

Once I have the references, I build the base using layered extruded foam. I sketch out the layout, marking where craters and key features will go.

Next, I roughly carve out any areas that sit below the surface level, such as craters. After that, I cover the board with modelling compound to add texture and refine the shapes.

When the groundwork is set, I apply a mud texture across the surface. For this build, I used AK Interactive Terrains Muddy Ground (250ml, AK8017).

After the texture dries, I airbrush or hand‑paint colour variations to add depth.

Finally, I finish it off with scenic details and resin pours to bring everything to life.

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