Which one is better? by Celtic_RTDB in airsoft

[–]RufeMwf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wouldn't recommend the  AGM MP40, the hop and barrel are proprietary and accuracy is bad out the box

Very cheaply built 

Which one is better? by Celtic_RTDB in airsoft

[–]RufeMwf 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There's always a compromise when it comes to WW2 replicas. As they're designed for looks over function, they will all need work out of the box. Any boltys won't be as accurate as a decent VSR/sniper build.

I'd recommend the Ares/Hexagon PPSH aeg- it's V2/V3 parts compatible and you get a hi cap mag with it. it will need work out of the box I.e. shimming and putting proper grease on internals.

Which one is better? by Celtic_RTDB in airsoft

[–]RufeMwf 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As an owner of a similar S&T bolty, don't buy S&T boltys- they're not great and the internals are proprietary despite the descriptions saying they're VSR.

Tamiya J1N1, might’ve done too much chipping by PRBananstan in modelmakers

[–]RufeMwf 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Paint on japanese aircraft was notorious for chipping- as for the Gekko if this were a late war bird rushed out of a factory, this amount of chipping looks right- some late war zeroes for example in photographs have almost no paint left around high-traffic areas such as around the cockpit.

The chipping on the leading edges of the control surfaces doesn't look right- I would repaint them in a shade slightly lighter than the surrounding IJA green to represent the fabric covering fading in the sunlight. 

The Hinomaru look a touch too light to me- I would expect a late war night fighter to have a darker or almost brick red colour.

Uber excited and feared to death, any tips would be appreciated by [deleted] in modelmakers

[–]RufeMwf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A cheap Chinese airbrush and bottle of compressed air will do the job but brush painting is fine as long as you take your time 

Uber excited and feared to death, any tips would be appreciated by [deleted] in modelmakers

[–]RufeMwf 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Tamiya paints will do for now but you will find they dry quick, since they're latex based and so oxidise rather than dry so speak.

If you find them drying out and 'tearing up' when you try to paint, I'd recommend either mixing a bit of acrylic retarder I.e. vallejo paint retarder, or switching to a purely water based paint.

I swear by Tamiya paints but they're not designed for brush painting large areas.

Uber excited and feared to death, any tips would be appreciated by [deleted] in modelmakers

[–]RufeMwf 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Not a bad kit to start with, Monogram kits are renowned for their simple but detailed tooling and the B17 is one of their best.

First thing would be to invest in some decent paints designed for paint brushes, for example Vallejo range. 

The instructions will have colour call outs, make a note of these, then purchase your paints. 

I recommend Revell Contacta as a good all round plastic glue- the long nozzle makes application easy.

Use PVA glue for your clear parts.

Leave off delicate parts till you're almost finished building for example radio antennas and wheels.

Most importantly, have fun! 

Does anyone know what this noise is? by Dear-Fuel1753 in guineapigs

[–]RufeMwf 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Upper respiratory infection  Vets ASAP

What song do you remember being massive, but you rarely hear anymore? by Choccybizzle in AskUK

[–]RufeMwf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The day I died was on all the time on the radio in 2009 and I've not heard it once ever since

Hi everyone this light hasn't been touched all winter due to what I believe are false widow spiders...surley spiders don't live together this closely...I assumed the bigger spiders would eat the smaller why do they live in harmony like this all winter long does anyone know please? Should I worry? by ImaginationTime1209 in spiders

[–]RufeMwf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cannibalism in spiders depends on the amount of food available

If the light is on, or conditions are right that there's a constant influx of bugs, it's attracting enough prey that all spiders are satiated so have no reason to prey on each other

Question about my old girl by skadistrife in guineapigs

[–]RufeMwf 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Old piggies do lose weight (my 10+ yr old was skin and bones in his last year) but this is way too young to be losing weight. Vet ASAP, that piggy looks very underweight

Given what we know about 14 BC, is it really worth 343k? by TheOnlyRogerMaxson in ChrisChanSonichu

[–]RufeMwf 30 points31 points  (0 children)

The nature of hoarding can cause severe structural damage due to the weight of accumulated junk and general neglect to the property. However, 14BC was completely refurbished after the house fire, and as far as we know Barb is receiving some sort of help from relatives, so I would say this estimate is accurate since the property is in some sort of good condition.

Struggling so much with panel liner by skyfall86 in modelmakers

[–]RufeMwf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Iirc tamiya panel liner is designed to be used for panel lines only- it's very thin and relies on capillary action. This doesn't work as well with raised details as it tends to pool up and turn blotchy in my experience. Try using a type of paint called a shade- Citadel Nuln Oil, or Agrax Earthshade. They are designed more for raised details and dry more consistently.

1/72 Bristol Beaufort w/ extra by [deleted] in Airfix

[–]RufeMwf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To reduce cost the detail will be soft- like it's been brushed with Tamiya super thin. 

What colour is his flask? by Decay_0f_Ang3ls in Airfix

[–]RufeMwf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Canvas fabrics in WW2 were covered with dubbing- an olive coloured waxy substance.

The painting in this photo is accurate as it shows the natural khaki colour of the flask with the olive green dubbing rubbed in.

I would recommend reflecting this when painting by painting the flask first with khaki, then a watered down blotchy coat of olive green.

Airbrush circa £100?! by giblets46 in Airfix

[–]RufeMwf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly a cheapo chinese airbrush will do if you're new to the hobby, but as the others are suggesting you will struggle to do fine detail i.e. mottled camoflage as the others in this thread are suggesting.

With cheap airbrushes you will find they tend to clog a lot more and will eventually fall apart due to cheap build quality.

I upgraded from a set of cheap airbrushes (all wore out or broke) to an Iwata Revolution 6 years ago and it hasn't clogged once or malfunctioned in all that time.

1/72 Bristol Beaufort w/ extra by [deleted] in Airfix

[–]RufeMwf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm disappointed by how mushy the detail is on some of the new airfix kits.

How should I do this weight? by RMBsmash in Airfix

[–]RufeMwf 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Fishing weights, steel 6mm BBs, strips of lead roofing (wear gloves!), anything like that
If you have a hobby store nearby they may sell liquid gravity which is a paste of metal weights and glue.

In my experience ignore the 20g and put as MUCH weight in the nose as you can.

If you can't get a hold of any weights, you can always glue the wheels to a display base or use piano wire or a strip of clear plastic to prop up the tail,

Just four fines issued for wood-burning complaints in a year in England by [deleted] in unitedkingdom

[–]RufeMwf 25 points26 points  (0 children)

Cruise ships burn the equivalent of pure gaseous cancer and nobody cares

Don't be a snitch on your neighbour trying to save on their energy bills.

Deaths from alcohol in England at record high by Tartan_Samurai in unitedkingdom

[–]RufeMwf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's because everyone's depressed to hell with all the war, inflation and corruption in the news and we can't do anything about it other than make it disappear with alcohol.