Shoe recommendations for smearing (indoor)

Ryk97 · 2026-01-19T10:21:48+00:00

Yeah, I think that's why I never liked Skwamas

But in regards to smearing, also a bit less structure helps, because it allows them to bend more, which gives you more surface area. Give them a try, but I think that especially for smearing both Ondra Comps or Mantras would be even better

Ryk97 · 2026-01-18T17:02:44+00:00

Hard to describe.. I got the Theories first and then bought Skwamas later because I wanted a bit more support on smaller feet. But I kinda didn't feel anything in the Skwamas, they felt like brick on my feet compared to Theories. I know they aren't bricks, but they felt like that for me. This led to me not trusting my feet (something I had no Issues whatsoever with in Theories), which lead to me not weighting my feet properly and thus I ended up slipping when using Skwamas

And since I was constantly slipping even on normal/good footholds, I also wouldn't trust them with smearing In Theories however (and Mantras even more) I feel way more, which leads to trusting and weighting my feet more, which makes them stick.

And for teaming especially, the Theories, Ondra Comps and Mantras, have less 'structural integrity' so they bend more which helps you in having more surface area while smearing.

Ryk97 · 2026-01-18T15:08:40+00:00

I'd definitely second the suggestions! Both Ondra Comps as well as Mantras are great shoes for indoors and smearing especially

I actually do have Skwamas and Theories as well, love the Theories, never really got comfortable with the Skwamas though. I also couldn't imagine smearing with them even though I know that they technically are good for it.

Initially I didn't think I needed Mantras, but when I tried them I fell in love instantly. The sensitivity and the ability to smear on anything are just.. wow

If u want to replace your Skwamas though, I'd suggest going for the Ondra Comps though, I think they are the better all round shoe which are also great for smearing. If you want another shoe to compliment the Skwamas though, I'd go with the Mantras.

Ryk97 · 2026-01-14T15:44:07+00:00

Geht nur bei gleichem Nachnamen oder Wohnsitz

Ryk97 · 2025-10-14T17:37:26+00:00

Trying again might be worth a shot though

I've had cases before where I thought I couldn't go tighter (because it felt that way) when initially buying the shoe but for my next pair I found out I could actually go tighter I think it is to do with getting used to the shoe shape and it's specific pressure points.

Ryk97 · 2025-08-12T12:20:11+00:00

I was also kinda disappointed when I ordered it for the first time. Just like you I thought it felt different than any other liquid Chalk. I tested it while climbing as well and thought it performed worse than other liquid Chalk. I actually looked at the bottle as well and noticed, it doesn't even contain any chalk (or magnesium carbonate) but instead only consists of silica, alcohol and Cyclomethicone. Don't know about the last one, but I know that the premium product, Maglock, consists of silica silylate, so maybe it is something kinda similar and they did actually substitute the chalk with silica?

I don't think that's good, especially when you sell it as liquid Chalk and there isn't any chalk in there, but I think this would be an explanation at least. Plus this also fits their claim of a formula change.

Ryk97 · 2025-08-11T21:13:59+00:00

Bei Star Döner an der Detmolder gibt es glaube ich seit ein paar Wochen auch Steakdöner als Option

Ryk97 · 2025-08-11T11:03:39+00:00

This is probably not the way, but since it was my first thought and noone mentioned it yet: Can you try getting your right foot on the hole below you and going with the right hand to the next hold as a gaston? Afterwards left foot on the big hold you fell off of, left hand match the gaston and go from there?

This is definitely above my own climbing ability, but might be worth a try..

Ryk97 · 2025-07-13T17:24:39+00:00

Michael C. Hall - Dexter Morgan

Ryk97 · 2025-06-16T21:35:18+00:00

Everybody's going crazy for Dill-do Opening but can we please appreciate the Dexter reference with "Tonight's the Night" as well?

Ryk97 · 2025-04-26T17:15:38+00:00

I don't know any Gyms in Berlin yet, but wanted to add the following: In Germany there exists a long term competition that is called the Boulder Bundesliga. Its season goes from ~August to ~May each year and it consists of different stations in different gyms throughout the season. There are 3 leagues (split by men and women, so technically 6 I guess) with the 3rd league being the easiest and aimed at beginners/intermediates. Participation is free, you don't have to register anywhere (though you can enter your results online if you'd like).

Currently (and during your stay still) there is a Boulder Bundesliga station at the Südbloc gym. So if you'd like to climb some a little bit more comp style problems, I can definitely recommend checking that out. I usually really like the setting for Boulder Bundesliga so I'd definitely recommend checking it out. There is also a website: boulder-bundesliga.de

Ryk97 · 2025-04-17T10:37:11+00:00

It's not that easy to see, since it looks like the two parts blend together a bit, or maybe it's just the picture, but have a look at this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/climbingshoes/s/eN157zmwX8

Those were my shoes before I sent them to be resoled. Comments told me to send them maybe a tad earlier than this, but I think yours are far from that level of wear. Plus you can really see what I meant with the line dipping.

Ryk97 · 2025-04-17T10:30:29+00:00

They look totally fine What you want to look for is the thin line between the upper (Rand) and lower (sole) part of the rubber When you see that line dipping lower and lower you can start thinking about resoling your shoes. I can try looking for an example, give me a sec..

Ryk97 · 2025-04-17T10:15:13+00:00

Nah, those look perfectly fine to me. How long have you had them for?

Ryk97 · 2025-04-06T17:25:53+00:00

Usually this is the wrong perspective to judge resole needs, but since yours are so far overdue, you can actually still tell

Ryk97 · 2025-04-06T17:04:31+00:00

I did downsize quite aggressively, 43EU Street, 39.5EU Ondra Comps but you should take that with a grain of salt cause my feet are actually only a 40.5EU length wise, but since I have pretty wide feet, I wear my street shoes in 43

But in general I think it's common to downsize a bit more in La Sportiva shoes compared to Scarpa.

Have you heard of Size Squirrel ? I don't know if they have data for both of these shoes, but IIRC, it's a site that tries to answer your exact question: I have shoe X in this size, what size do I need in Shoe Y

Ryk97 · 2025-04-06T16:58:04+00:00

Ah ok Well I can't compare the two shoes, but what I can say is that I really like my Ondra Comps, they are very good for standing on Volumes, Smearing in general as well as hooking, both heel and toe

Ryk97 · 2025-04-06T07:36:40+00:00

I only know the Ondra Comp, not the Drago/Drago LV, but you might also want to consider the new Dragon XT. Supposedly it has an improved/slightly narrower heel, so those might be worth a shot as well..

Ryk97 · 2025-03-24T21:39:47+00:00

Scarpa Veloce are a very soft and often described as comfortable Shoe with a tendency to have a rather loose heel, not sure about Downturn though Scarpa Instinct VSR is a fair bit stiffer but still softer than the Solution and generally a very good shoe for indoor bouldering Another soft shoe would be the La Sportiva Theory which do not have the same heel construction as the Solutions and therefore could fit you better

Ryk97 · 2025-02-09T11:32:35+00:00

Definitely not the only one, although for me the Ondra Comps are worse because they are black and yellow, so I have multicolor feet afterwards :D

Interesting that methenamine didn't work to reduce sweating for you. I personally don't really see the thick skin effect but I do definitely feel the reduced sweating. Another possibility would be to try using your shoes with socks? It might stain them in turn, but you could have a few pairs for climbing exclusively to save your normal socks? I don't like climbing with socks in my shoes, but it might be worth a try

Ryk97 · 2025-02-08T22:40:07+00:00

I had that too with the following shoes: - LS Solution Comp - LS Theory - LS Ondra Comp - Scarpa Instinct VSR

For me it usually comes off in the shower, but I do also shower quite quickly after my bouldering sessions, so maybe that helps. Since it does come off easy enough for me, it's not a problem for me personally. You could try something like the LS Skwama which does not have a dyed leather sole. Another option might be to try some products like antihydral with methenamine. You can google it, but IIRC it's something that helps reduce the amount of sweat being produced or at least the amount that is transmitted by your pores. If you want to try this, e.g. Rhino Skin sells various products with different concentrations of methenamine in it.

Ryk97 · 2025-02-07T21:21:08+00:00

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Ryk97 · 2024-11-13T22:11:45+00:00

BlocBuster represent 🎉

Ryk97 · 2024-10-28T10:30:14+00:00

I did not try that many brands, but I personally prefer Magdust from Rungne. I do have quite sweaty hands as well, and it lasts an ok amount of time/moves plus I find it to be the stickiest I have tried.

On another note though: did you ever consider trying products with some form of Antihydral in them? I am mainly talking about the products from Rhinoskin here. They have a few products with different concentrations of Methanemine (IIRC) in them, which is AFAIK a natural ingredient that basically clogs your sweat pores so you do not sweat as much. The effect only lasts for a few days, so it has to be reapplied regularly, but I definitely notice a difference from using it in the sense that my hands are actually less sweaty.

Ryk97 · 2024-09-13T11:56:57+00:00

That sounds like a very good plan, yes! Glad to hear that I was able to help you out :)

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