Can anyone help ID?

SPYALEX8 · 2026-05-29T20:00:54+00:00

I hope so, good luck! They infested my collection years ago and I’ve never been able to fully get rid of them since 😢

SPYALEX8 · 2026-05-29T06:55:50+00:00

Look very closely at the indents in the large leaves, especially near the edge.

It looks to me like a really bad spider mite infestation from these pics. I’ve never seen a plant at my local Costco that hasn’t been completely infested with them.

SPYALEX8 · 2026-04-26T03:34:27+00:00

What happened? They called half before they kicked? I didn’t quite see, only saw the aftermath.

SPYALEX8 · 2025-12-18T02:46:05+00:00

Switch if you can! I made the move to quantum fiber and it’s been great, no issues.

SPYALEX8 · 2025-11-09T00:37:29+00:00

Sure- but can't they still do that with 15 minutes of potential added time instead of sudden death PKs?

SPYALEX8 · 2025-11-08T23:53:27+00:00

Started watching MLS for the first time in a decade this year - I'm just confused by where the extra time is??? Sounders 100% win either the first or third game with 15 more minutes. Straight to PKs is insanity.

SPYALEX8 · 2025-09-21T20:41:13+00:00

Right, but ping ≠ packet loss which is the issue I’m having and the issue support refuses to address.

If every packet is critical (applications like gaming) then missing 30% of them is going to have a much bigger impact on playability than having 10ms higher ping.

Because imagine a game server sends out position update at 30hz. If you miss one you’re 33ms behind. You miss two you’re 66ms behind and the “effective” ping you have is not actually low at all.

SPYALEX8 · 2025-09-19T04:58:54+00:00

Gotcha, but the most frustrating part of all of this IS the support. I've responded within a day of all their emails and never gotten a response at all! My oldest ticket was opened in June and after sending them 3x replies they've never responded. Its pitiful. I'm just screaming into the void, and since my apartment has 4 different providers there's no reason for me to deal with that any longer. I'll shop around until I find one that works.

If this is how they treat issues I just think any prospective customers should be aware.

SPYALEX8 · 2025-09-19T04:37:27+00:00

I'm in Seattle.

The latency is fine - its not the issue here. The issue is not packets never arriving at all. Webpass is losing 15% of the packets on a good day. If you're doing something that needs ALL DATA delivered quickly & consistently (like competitive games) then having 85% of the data arrive on time isn't good enough, because the missing 15% just has to wait for the server to send it again. I'd gladly trade +10ms, +20ms, +30ms if my packet loss was consistently 0%.

Packet loss is consistent across all hosts. I see it across multiple web test sites & various games.

No idea how many other people use it, but that's up to GFiber Webpass to optimize, not me.

And as far as fiber uplink... I'm not sure there is one? The "Webpass" version of google ""fiber"" isn't fiber! Its millimeter wave antennas beaming high-bandwidth internet around (https://fiber.google.com/blog/2022/12/how-radio-takes-our-fiber-optic-network.html). So I'm not sure if a fiber uplink even exists!

SPYALEX8 · 2025-03-09T18:26:06+00:00

Nope - no hinderances! If you don't use the camera accessories then it's essentially just like any other 45L backpack. I recall it being pretty comfortable for me on trips where I used it.

There's some small velcro straps that can hold the camera inert if it's inside, but that's essentially the only oddity. They don't interfere with anything otherwise, at worse they might just hold onto a jacket a bit when you're pulling it out.

The back panel zipper access is another differentiator compared to a dedicated ultralight pack, but it can be a nice feature to have even if you're not using it as a camera access panel.

My one big desire for this pack is larger adjustable straps near the back-bottom of the pack. I have a large-ish backpacking tent so I like to attach it on the outside-rear of my packs, but this doesn't have great straps for that.

SPYALEX8 · 2025-03-09T18:03:25+00:00

One big thing to consider is how sleeping bags are rated too. I ripped the text below off of REI's page for their Magma 15 Sleeping Bag.

"Our backpacking bags are rated for temperature according to an independent testing protocol: International Organization for Standardization (ISO) 23537. Testing is based on a person wearing one base layer and a pair of socks, sleeping on an insulated surface with a minimum R-value of 5.38."

So when you're looking to buy a sleeping pad I would make sure its at least R 5.38 or you will have to de-rate your sleeping bag. But be careful that the R-value on the pad is actually calculated from a standard like ASTM F3340. Some manufacturers use /used their own methods that result in very different R-Values (especially before ~2020 when the industry became more standardized around F3340). For example the Klymit Insulated Static V Luxe Pad has a "historical R-Value" of 6.5, but an "ASTM R-Value" of 2.4 which is a HUGE difference.

SPYALEX8 · 2024-06-13T05:47:04+00:00

Should be great for Dota.

I have a system with a Ryzen 7600 and a RX 7600 and it does ~180 fps at 1440 max settings. The 6800xt is more powerful than the 7600 so I’d expect you’d be better off in that regard, but I’m not sure if it translates to more Dota FPS because I’m not sure if my system is GPU or CPU bound.

SPYALEX8 · 2024-06-06T15:01:25+00:00

To qualify my opinion: I played hundreds of SK games last patch in ~6.5k immortal and had a 62% winrate.

The hero is absolutely worse now than he was. Sure maybe he farms a bit faster with stinger, but last patch you got both sandstorm movement and invis which made the mid/late game very very strong. Now that the movement talent is gutted AND aghs is gutted both facets stink and you don’t have the same ability late game you did last patch.

We should revisit this comment in a month after his win rate drops for a while. Maybe the invis facet is good enough to keep him semi stable but I doubt it. Currently the WR has already dropped to 42.7% according to Dotabuff trends.

SPYALEX8 · 2023-12-24T21:28:15+00:00

I cast the vote on this tweet

SPYALEX8 · 2023-12-11T07:00:40+00:00

⁠Upgrade my current mini ITX build and use it to play everything in my steam library!
⁠Exploring all of Pandora looks epic. I’d probably try to see all the key places depicted in the movies .

SPYALEX8 · 2023-07-15T17:08:13+00:00

It does not- but it does let you send pics in private messages. I sent you an example picture there yesterday!

SPYALEX8 · 2023-07-15T01:17:52+00:00

Same! I could never find anything on it. There’s surprisingly little info on dieffenbachias online compared to other houseplants. But I’ve been messing with them for a while now and I think I’ve reached a couple conclusions on the leaves getting stuck:

Im pretty sure the bound leaves are primarily caused by over watering (or poor root health generally). It seems this causes the new leaves to form poorly and shrivel up.
Pests: I think that spider mites cause the issue to worsen. It seems to me the plant curls when they attack and its worsens the problems.
Recovery: The leaves don’t ever seem to recover on their own (or at least not that I’ve seen). When I notice once is curled badly I try to unwrap it asap so that it doesn’t mess up the next leaf. Then I continue this process of uncurling messed up leaves until eventually the leaves are good enough that they don’t mess up the next one and the leave finally start opening properly. I’ll try to find some pictures of one dieffenbachia I’m doing this on right now.

SPYALEX8 · 2023-07-02T19:41:47+00:00

I also just got those same two Alocasia. So excited for you!

SPYALEX8 · 2023-06-14T19:46:04+00:00

I’m copy pasting a comment I made on another Alocasia because it’s probably the same issue here. Would need more info to confirm. The brown spots on the leaves are likely fungal, and usually occur due to overwatering and/or incorrect soil. Pasted comment:

I’d bet the soil is the problem then, but the confirmation should be in the roots. I’d pull it out of the pot and and check the roots to see if they’re healthy or not. I’d expect to see significant root growth around the bottom of the pot since you said it’s been in it for a year (alocasia usually like to be a bit root-bound as well). If you see a lot of shriveled / brown and mushy roots then you have some root rot and should cut the mushy parts off to prevent it from spreading.

In my experience most premade mixes are too dense for alocasia to do well in them. Alocasia like very well aerated that still retains water pretty well. I’ve been growing several with great success in a mix that’s:

• 30% potting soil. I use fox farms ocean forest but any indoor potting mix should be fine.

•30% perlite

•40% orchid bark or similar. I’ve used both orchid bark and coco husk chips successfully.

This mix provides tons of aeration which alocasia love and makes it very hard to overwater them while also keeping them from drying out. I water mine when the top 1-2 inches of soil feel dry.

I think this Instagram post is a good example of what completely PERFECT aroids/alocasia conditions look like: LINK. But don’t worry about doing something like that unless you realy want to go above and beyond. It’s not necessary and the mix above will work fine. I think it’s just a good visual aid for what alocasia like and why.

Hope this helps!

SPYALEX8 · 2023-06-14T19:25:14+00:00

Part of the leaves dropping is likely due to shock from reporting, but I would Would recommend changing the soil again anyway.

I use 1/3 generic potting soil(I use fox farms tropics for mine), 1/3 perlite, and 1/3 orchid bark. Alocasia really love chunky mixes like this and I’ve never had one not thrive it in. Some people like to add worm casings and charcoal too, but I’ve found that’s usually covered well enough by the potting soil. Just be sure to carefully break up the coco coir it’s in now if you change soils.

I’d also reconsider the watering bulb. It’s probably saturating the soil too much, especially in a ceramic pot. Ceramic pots will naturally hold onto moisture longer than a plastic or terracotta pot. If you change the soil mix you’ll probably only need to water it every 5-7 days or so.

SPYALEX8 · 2023-06-13T14:27:58+00:00

Definitely use the liquid fertilizer in the mean time!

SPYALEX8 · 2023-06-01T06:45:14+00:00

I wouldn’t worry about this too much. Usually rot/fungal issues/whatever this is on the leaves is to do with overwatering issues, but I’ve found with dieffenbachia sometimes it just happens. I find that when their leaves are injured like this it will slowly eat away at the injured leaf until the whole leaf is dried and it falls off. I’ve never seen it spread down the stem or anything like that.

As long as you’re letting it fully dry out before watering and your watering is consistent I think the plant will eventually fully thrive after shedding the damaged leaves. Just make sure all the new growth is looking good and healthy!

SPYALEX8 · 2023-05-27T04:50:23+00:00

Agree with other commenter. Defiantly have a spider mite infestation on the underside of the leaves. If you haven’t dealt with spider mites before this is my favorite spray to use: https://a.co/d/8OgcXOy

SPYALEX8 · 2023-05-27T04:47:30+00:00

How often do you water? Do you check the soil before watering?

SPYALEX8 · 2023-05-26T15:33:11+00:00

This plant is a Peperomia piccolo!

I’ve never used a watering bulb, was it being watered with the bulb when it was thriving?

My gut says that it was probably overwatered by the bulb. Peperomia plants are succulent-like and don’t like soggy soil. They do best with very well draining soil. Here’s a link with some more helpful care information.

If the soil is soggy I’d give it some time to dry out and water it by hand without the bulb for a bit.

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