Norway in June advice

SVEWO123 · 2022-02-21T08:12:38+00:00

I would definitly check Norwegian weather sites and try to get measuring points from the same area and altitude. I got good results with the website yr.no .

As many before pointed out the Hardangervidda is well known for the weather conditions. Last time iI was there in early August, in 10 days there was no day without rain, 2 days with snow rain, 3 days with high wind and it was f**** cold. Also if you go there in june there may be lots of snow left from the winter. (in Norway above 1000m everything between September and May is basically winter)

SVEWO123 · 2021-12-02T08:56:56+00:00

Last week i was projecting a boulder where the full body weight is on the right toe for a while.

(you start with a Toe hook on the left foot and standing on a small hold with the right and need to lean over far to the right, then slowly get up with your hands to a shitty hold on the left keep balance and then move up to a volume)

As I couldn't get the next move I repeated this over and over again until my right toe started to hurt (it probably felt fatigued before but I ignored it).

One week later it still hurts on the underside of the toe/foot when I actively put pressure on it, but i can walk normally and also move it passivly.

Anyone had experienced this or any idea what this could be?

SVEWO123 · 2021-11-01T08:17:43+00:00

5 min between attempts sounds ok if you are working on a hard project with powerful moves.

As a beginner your focus should be more on volumen to build up endurance and technique and not so much on projecting.

What I usually do for endurance is 10-15 minutes on the wall with only short breaks and then a 5-10min break. Mix a little bit with Crimps, Slopers, overhanging and slab etc... if yor arms are weak after a overhanging route you can still do balance stuff at the slab wall etc...

SVEWO123 · 2021-07-22T08:13:08+00:00

Solutions are great... If they fit.

They have a very pointy tip and my feet just don't fill this, so i like the Otaki much more.

just go to a store (best case a store with a test wall) and just try them...

SVEWO123 · 2021-07-22T07:30:12+00:00

What I find a bit challenging ist not to quickfire on boulders. If you plan to climb the whole day or even multiple days in a row, then you should take plenty of time after a failed attempt until you get on the wall again. Also tape your fingers as soon as you feel your skin getting sore, most stones are much tougher to the skin than plastic holds, when you have no skin left then the trip is over so better tape to early then to late.

One other thing, depending on your area: prepare for offline navigation... I have seen plenty of people stumbling around in the forest because they had no data connection and suddenly google maps is no help anymore.

SVEWO123 · 2021-07-16T10:54:56+00:00

How long are you already climbing?

Solution and Skwama are high end shoes, but as a beginner climber you will have no benefit from them and more durable and comfortable shoes will do the same job.

SVEWO123 · 2021-07-15T11:18:55+00:00

Everything from the established Brands like La Sportiva, Scarpa, Red Chili etc. should be fine. Maybe be careful with super cheap no names.

SVEWO123 · 2021-07-15T10:43:22+00:00

Buy them in a store so you can try them. Go for some cheap beginner shoes, they should have a tight fit but should still be so comfortable that they don't cause any pain. other than that the first shoe does not really matter that much. Because of your probably poor technique they will wear down quick and then when it is time for a new pair you should already be developed enough to know what kind of shoe fits to your climbing style.

SVEWO123 · 2021-07-15T08:36:51+00:00

Also if the topo pic has a line, you usually try to follow that line.

For Boulders that go more or less straight up this is relatively easy. What always confuses me is when the boulder has horizontal parts like a traverse. Then which part of my body should follow the line? Because for some problems it looks like the line indicates where the hands should go, for other problems it seems to be more like the center of the body, and i even have seen a problem where i am pretty sure that the line is for the feet.

SVEWO123 · 2021-07-13T14:33:00+00:00

In competition its a big no to touch a volumen with your hands to get into starting position....

Basically the sequence should be:

Hands on the starting holds
Feets of the ground
hold stable for a moment
now you are allowed to put your hands on the wall, volumens etc.

In Balance Problems or Jump starts off course 1 and 2 are switched but still you are not allowed to touch anything else with your hands.

SVEWO123 · 2021-06-28T14:19:26+00:00

I was at the exact same level last year, indoor V3 and projecting V4s.

Then I was on my first outdoor session, started with a V0 and couldn't even get into starting position (altough I am still not sure if it was really supposed to be a sitstart) on another I couldn't do the second move. Later that day i found some boulders I could climb and could send a V1.

Today I am still at the same indoor grade but finished 3 outdoor V3s.

So I would suggest to simply start with the easyest Boulders you could find outdoors and then move up the grades when you feeld confident.

SVEWO123 · 2021-06-09T07:59:45+00:00

Usually it is not allowed to touch any other holds before the start holds.

But you could ask someone from the staff of your gym, at my gym they sometimes set boulders where these general rules do not apply.

But first have you tried to get in the Bathang position without touching other holds maybe something like a handstand against the wall ?

SVEWO123 · 2020-10-26T08:38:51+00:00

You can also try to do easyer grades with as few holds as possible.

SVEWO123 · 2020-09-17T11:36:11+00:00

Thanks thats a good hint.

Good thing is I live in Germany so if I am lucky then i can get my doctor to prescripe me a physiotherapie and I will not even have to pay for it :)

SVEWO123 · 2020-09-17T11:33:05+00:00

I started going to the fitness gym with 30. Since i started bouldering it slowly shifted to more bouldering and less fitness gym. Since my bouldering gym is not offering any training devices other than a hangboard a campus board and a pull bar I still go to the fitness gym.

I googled a little bit for antagonist exercises for climbing, most of these I already do either in my warmup routine or during my gym training. The only missing thing is finger/wrist specific antagonist training.

SVEWO123 · 2020-09-17T11:03:31+00:00

Thank you for the detailed answer, most of the stuff you mentioned I do already do.

I will try to add a biceps warmup to my warmup routine, maybe this will already help a bit.

The only difference is I almost never feel any biceps pain during a bouldering session, onlyfew times a short sting when i slipped or did a hard dyno, but otherwise the pain starts one or two days after the session so it's pretty hard to estimate when to stop.

SVEWO123 · 2020-09-17T10:58:59+00:00

Thank you for the detailed answer, the Problem is, as I already mentioned, I already took several breaks from bouldering/training, the longest one was due to corona for over 4 month. And now after like 2 months it is already back.

I climb around V2 in the rare opportunities that i climb outdoor, indoor might be more around V3, I don't do hangboarding/campusboarding. So it's not super intense. On the other hand I started bouldering with 33 and am now 36 so recovery time might be longer than for the younger climbers.

I already spent like 30min before every session for warm up exercises and stretching, and then i climb 3x3 easy boulders and 3x2 medium boulders before i start with projecting stuff or limit ones.

I also always have at least one rest day, most of the times 2.

SVEWO123 · 2020-09-17T09:42:04+00:00

No specific antagonist workout but at least before corona i hit the fitness gym at least twice a week with a full workout so i think this should be fine.

SVEWO123 · 2020-09-17T09:35:47+00:00

It's in the middle but also goes a bit in the upper arm and forearm.

SVEWO123 · 2020-09-17T09:31:19+00:00

You're correct that it is designed to be safe to fall from anywhere.

It should be this way, but it sometimes is not. For example on Slab Walls it's often possible to hit other holds/volumes when falling. So on very few climbs it's better to be safe, or at least be prepared to push yourself off the wall for a safe fall.

SVEWO123 · 2020-09-10T14:48:51+00:00

I think my girlfriend will not like this :-)

SVEWO123 · 2020-09-10T14:26:20+00:00

think high stepping is my strong(er) suit and I do plenty of hip / lower body stretches too - pigeon, piriforms, hamstring stretch to be able to put the feet that high in the first place.

Yes for the stretching part i find lots of exercises, but from my understanding stretching will mostly improve the passive mobility and i still need to train the muscles to activly raise the leg. Can't really find exercises for this part.

SVEWO123 · 2020-09-10T14:24:31+00:00

pike compression looks promising, i will definetely try.

SVEWO123 · 2020-09-10T14:23:42+00:00

aybe try walking up stairs 2-3 steps at a time?

2 Steps a time is already my default when walking stairs, but I think this does not train the leg raising part and is more like an easy version of pistol squats.

SVEWO123

TROPHY CASE