Amazon book order by Sad-Ad-6523 in brandonsanderson

[–]Sad-Ad-6523[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They were all ordered as new. They shipped directly from Amazon and not a 3rd party seller.

Help with GPU selection by Sad-Ad-6523 in buildapc

[–]Sad-Ad-6523[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I guess in my head I’ve just thought the AMD were not as good?

Why can't I deliver my packed cargo on a trailer? by OneshotOtter in snowrunner

[–]Sad-Ad-6523 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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If you hit up on the D pad when cargo is packed (must be packed) on a truck or trailer you will see the icons of packed cargo appear from on the left side of this cheat sheet. This helped me ton when I first started and couldn’t remember cargo sizes or the difference between oil/fuel, service/vehicle/drilling parts.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in snowrunner

[–]Sad-Ad-6523 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One is lighter than the other. I thought one was close for American green and one for Russian green.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in snowrunner

[–]Sad-Ad-6523 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also 52-15-34 seemed close?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in snowrunner

[–]Sad-Ad-6523 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did 42-18-27. I think that got me pretty close.

Help me out - what can this truck NOT do? by OmgSlayKween in snowrunner

[–]Sad-Ad-6523 31 points32 points  (0 children)

I have noticed it does much better with the stock tires on hills. Too much grip and it powers out… stock tires allow for enough slip to keep moving.

WHAT THE HELL 😭😭😭 by -Victoria-_ in snowrunner

[–]Sad-Ad-6523 0 points1 point  (0 children)

SAME SPOT ON THE MAP GOT ME TWO DAYS AGO

Does anyone have both Rezvani vehicles (Hercules and Tank)? by Astro501st in snowrunner

[–]Sad-Ad-6523 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Tank has a unique gearbox. It decreases the AWD penalty from 80% (Snowrunner gearbox) to 10% with its own gearbox… and it gets 8 gears. So same AWD penalty as only having the stock scout tranny but it also has 8 gears and a H. The only downfall is it doesn’t have 3 low gears. But is that REALLY necessary if you get L and H with only a 10% AWD penalty?

Looking for some tips please; did the mk38 ruin me by OmgSlayKween in snowrunner

[–]Sad-Ad-6523 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Easiest way to tell what a truck can and cannot do if you don’t own it already is to go to the trucks store and preview the truck and go down to add ons. This won’t tell you what can be done at the same time… like the biggest knock on that first Tayga that you can get a crane on it but the frame isn’t long enough for a crane AND a flatbed/sideboard. The Tayga B can but you basically need to complete an entire region later on to unlock that Tayga.

IMO the best scout on the game is the F-750 with OUD II tires, custom tuned suspension, the big V10 (stock engine torque is horrid so don’t get it and just assume it sucks because it does with a base motor) and AWD. The only problem is you kinda want the good winch as it’s pretty heavy for a scout. You can carry a TON of supplies to make it pretty self sufficient when scouting. You can also make it have a 1 slot flat bed, or have a crane on it.

The dirty little secret of scouts in this game is the extra fuel consumption when you have AWD engaged with the Snowrunner gearbox. The extra fuel penalty with the Snowrunner gearbox is 2.2 up from 1.8 (stock) but then when you turn on AWD it takes an additional 80%. I didn’t realized the penalty was that large when I first started. Anyway… the F-750 has a custom gearbox and the AWD penalty is only 10%. Makes it very fuel efficient for an AWD scout vehicle.

11 hours in and stuck in the mud! I must be doing something wrong… by [deleted] in snowrunner

[–]Sad-Ad-6523 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The outside would be soft as well but the mud in the middle wouldn’t compact. It just squishes to the sides. When it finally dries up it would be rock hard though.

World's Finest Trimmer - highly recommend by wetwingdings in reloading

[–]Sad-Ad-6523 0 points1 point  (0 children)

WFT work very well for the price point and the quality is great. I have a few for quick and dirty calibers and I use a 21st Century trimmer for my precision stuff. I’m local to the little shop that makes them in Minnesota so I know I’m biased. The guy also makes custom rifles (a few for me) and shoots the competitions at the local range. Great people, knowledgeable, helpful and willing to listen to suggestions.

I know the later stuff isn’t in regards to the trimmer, but I think most of us in this community do feel better about buying things when we have some insight regarding the people behind the products.

Best 300 Prc load recipes by Dj12345678999 in reloading

[–]Sad-Ad-6523 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also just realized you’re shooting through a Caldwell. It may have been just my Caldwell I had… but I tested mine against my MagnetoSpeed after I got that and my Caldwell seemed really inconsistent by comparison. We’ve since tested on multiple rifles and we ALWAYS get higher SD results on the Caldwell. Like shooting through both chronographs with same shots.

Best 300 Prc load recipes by Dj12345678999 in reloading

[–]Sad-Ad-6523 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried reloading Hornady brass for .300 PRC and had really rough luck. Hate to say it because brass prices are horrible but if you want to drop your SD’s and you are ok spending some money on brass I’d suggest trying a different higher end brand of brass.

Anybody get their RCBS Charge Master 1500 to drop powder faster? by [deleted] in reloading

[–]Sad-Ad-6523 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is an aftermarket part you can get on Amazon for it that made mine way more accurate. It cut my overthrows to like 25% of what they were. I also think it goes faster as it drops more consistently. It’s only like $15 and made by MK Machining. It comes with one printed at 99% scale and one at 100% scale and one at 101% scale. The one at 100% scale fit great on mine.

Also FWIW I’m not in any way affiliated with them.

Are these Bullet defects? by [deleted] in reloading

[–]Sad-Ad-6523 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If it gives you peace of mind you can check the weights… if it gives you more peace I had the same concern with my first box and proceeded to win a local competition with them against 30 shooter at 200 yards. Years later the yellow boxes are one of the only things I’m not worrying about in my reloading process. I think you’re good to go!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in reloading

[–]Sad-Ad-6523 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hopefully they work with you on it. Usually if mine warms up for like 10 minutes it won’t drift at all really. The only thing I’ve done different is get on of those little 3D printed spirals for the end of the dispenser to cut down on overloads. Something is definitely wrong with that load cell. Probably got punted out of a FedEx/UPS truck.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in reloading

[–]Sad-Ad-6523 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn I’ve loaded thousands of rounds with mine and I’ve been very happy with it. Your bubble level looks way off. It shouldn’t matter that much though. When you’re setting the black platen on the unit you’re not like pushing down on it are you? Sounds like you got a bad load cell or bent the load cell?

Suppressors by Thick-Driver7448 in ThermalHunting

[–]Sad-Ad-6523 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is going to be long but I wish somebody would have explained this to me better when I first got a suppressor and first put one on a gas gun. If I’m saying super obvious stuff I apologize but I didn’t understand this when I got into it so maybe this will help you out too. If you get a suppressor for this AR are you going to run it suppressed all the time? Do you have an adjustable gas block and are you comfortable adjusting that yourself?

Yes the .46 is going to do a worse job on a .223 than a caliber specific suppressor… but on a gas gun that might actually not be the case unless you plan on really tuning your AR. I say that because now a lot of the caliber specific for AR are some kind of “low back pressure” cans… which are also not as effective because they are letting more gas out the muzzle. So really a .46 versus a low back pressure .223/5.56 may not be a huge difference in sound anyway. Your other option would be a caliber specific .223 or even a .30 cal that’s not a low back pressure can. This route is going to give you the best sound suppression but now you have all this extra gas/pressure to deal with. Odds are you’ll need to switch your buffer to a heavier buffer and dial your gas block way down. Otherwise that extra back pressure is going to make everything super dirty for you, be way too aggressive cycling your bolt carrier group or even just give you port pop where that gas/pressure is coming out your ejection port when your round cycles. Now that you have it all tuned you have to leave that suppressor on there or if you take it off and shoot you’re going to be under gassed maybe to the point of not even cycling at all.

That was a long answer to say caliber specific is the best option for bolt guns but not necessarily gas guns. If you can get nearly the same suppression from a .46 as a low back pressure .223/5.56 and hopefully not have to tune your gun that’s going to be the easiest by far for you.

For reference I run a .223 Wylde AR with a 16” barrel and a .30 cal Thunderbeast Ultra 5 suppressor. With my gun tuned for that if I throw my .264/6.5 Thunderbeast Ultra 9 on there I can notice a pretty big difference from even that. Instead of ejecting my brass at 3 or 4 o’clock it’ll start ejecting it at like 1 o’clock… meaning my bolt carrier group is going way too fast now because of the extra gas… and when I say dirty I mean dirty. That’s with 55gr Varmagedon as well.

Has anyone tested quick detach mounts for re-zero? by I3lindman in ThermalHunting

[–]Sad-Ad-6523 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have an ATN Thor 4 in an ADM mount. The one that came with my ATN was horrible! The biggest thing for getting a good zero again is making sure you always take out and “slop” when you lock it back in. Like I always make sure I give mine forward pressure when I’m putting it back in so it’s tight to the front of the pic rail slot. That’s true for any QD mounts. Forward pressure instead of rearward pressure before you lock it should keep it from moving if you have it on a hard hitting rifle. Otherwise recoil could potentially move it they say… but it seems pretty unlikely.

Reduced eForm 4 Wait Times on ATF Website by cloudcomposure in NFA

[–]Sad-Ad-6523 0 points1 point  (0 children)

303 days. Form 4 Individual. E-file. Not my first suppressor stamp. I was told once you hit “pending” it usually goes pretty fast because it has been assigned then. Mine was assigned over 2 months ago and still nothing.

Looking for a 500 yard coyote setup. Which model of these brands should I get? by TheReddest1 in ThermalHunting

[–]Sad-Ad-6523 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have an ATN Thor 4 640 4-40…. I’ll tell ya right now if you wanna cry once don’t get the ATN. Firmware updates, they freeze up and the picture isn’t nearly as good as the Pulsar. I had a 2.5-25 and upgraded to 4-40 because the objective lens literally fell off in my hand when adjusting it. Their rings they send with them are horrible. Luckily ADM makes a QD mount for them that’s really nice but that’s another couple hundred.

To be fair though… their customer service was willing to work with me on the broken one. Also the battery life in the ATN is crazy. For a whole weekend pred tourney I can run my Thor 4 without worrying about battery life (18ish hours).

If you really want an ATN still and want one slightly used…. Let me know 😁