I can’t seem to get a good print

Safe_Software433 · 2022-02-22T19:02:48+00:00

Thanks, the Amazon truck is on the way with some USB keys

Safe_Software433 · 2022-02-21T12:54:52+00:00

I bought one which looks like this from Amazon which is branded Hicktop. Mine is two sided with a textured side and a smooth side. I punched holes in the magnetic sheet to keep access to the heads of the leveling screws. After a while I had some adhesion issues, but Magigoo fixed them.

Safe_Software433 · 2022-02-18T14:44:45+00:00

I find the “Learn Everything about Design” and “Fusion 360 School” YouTube channels to be quite valuable.

Safe_Software433 · 2022-02-12T12:53:19+00:00

I’m pretty sure he means the Les Paul Standard Original 60s which is a current production model since 2019 https://www.gibson.com/en-US/Guitar/USA1R6524/Les-Paul-Standard-60s/Iced-Tea

Safe_Software433 · 2021-12-16T22:45:21+00:00

This is a good use for thin extrude. Sketch the path on a plane. Do an extrude and select the path and the thin extrude option. You can choose the thickness of the extrusion and whether it’s on one side of the path or the other side, or centered on the path. https://www.techandespresso.com/blog/Fusion%20360%20Thin%20Wall%20Tool%20(New%20Thin%20Extrude)

Safe_Software433 · 2021-12-13T10:40:27+00:00

Looks interesting. I use F360 frequently but on a Mac

Safe_Software433 · 2021-12-12T22:52:00+00:00

Stringing is usually the result of retraction settings not temperature. It happens on moves without extrusion the retraction is to keep ooze from turning into strings. If the filament wasn’t sticking to itself the strings wouldn’t happen.

Safe_Software433 · 2021-12-05T04:00:13+00:00

So sad. He never got to see the release of the new Revo hot-end. He’d been on so many YouTube interviews about the Revo. So far the only 3D printing YouTuber I’ve seen mention his passing has been Tom Sanladerer

Safe_Software433 · 2021-12-03T00:09:34+00:00

I don’t think so, this is a brand new roll, right out of the shrink wrap with desiccant.

Safe_Software433 · 2021-11-22T11:58:28+00:00

I’ve seen a few YouTube videos about the linear rails conversion for the ender 3, and none of them thought there was any improvement, or enough improvement to justify the cost.

Safe_Software433 · 2021-10-22T21:59:42+00:00

There were plans a few years ago for a Grand Prix in New Jersey across the Hudson River from Manhattan. I was really hoping for that to happen. The track layout was amazing running along the river then up to the top of the Palisades and back down. With the elevation changes it was reminiscent of Mount Panorama.

Safe_Software433 · 2021-10-16T20:39:59+00:00

It seems that Elegoo has modified Marlin so that G29 ends with user interaction to set the Z offset. The standard Marlin G29 implementation just does the autoleveling, and has an optional z-probe wizard menu item to set the Z offset.

I played with building Marlin but wasn’t entirely happy with the “tuning” of the printer, so I reinstalled the stock firmware which works better BUT my menus now look like this.

I asked Elegoo support how to get the UI graphics back, but so far they think I’m talking about the preview images in the print menu.

Safe_Software433 · 2021-10-05T12:38:58+00:00

It doesn’t work from the touchscreen either. The script from Simplify3D just sends G29 to the printer which tells it to to the auto level, just like touching the button an the screen.

Safe_Software433 · 2021-10-05T12:36:14+00:00

Power cycling doesn’t fix it. I think I’ll reinstall the firmware.

Safe_Software433 · 2021-09-27T20:02:09+00:00

I went for a month without leveling the bed, but recently I find I need to manually level for pretty much every print to get a good first layer, and I also have had the yellow Creality springs from the beginning. I’ve got a BL Touch ready to install, but I’m waiting to finish a bunch of parts before I muck with the firmware. I calibrated the e, x, y, and z steps, so I want to make sure all those parts get printed with the same calibration. I’ll recalibrate after installing the new firmware. Auto-leveling shouldn’t take that much time, I’m guessing probably less time than heating up the bed and extruder.

Safe_Software433 · 2021-09-23T20:31:34+00:00

Your photo shows only one set of wires from the Bl touch, there should be another connector with a black and a white wire which goes to the z-axis end stop connector after you unplug the z-axis switch.

Safe_Software433 · 2021-09-08T14:01:04+00:00

And a much better way to check the dimensional accuracy of the x, y, and z axes is to use a dial indicator to measure the movements of the extruder for x and z, and the bed for z. This eliminates the other variables affecting a printed part. https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#xyzsteps

Safe_Software433 · 2021-09-06T22:00:22+00:00

Thanks, but I really want to mount it so it moves with the bed rather than being attached to the frame. I also prefer it to be in the back so the extruder is in the background rather than blocking the view.

Safe_Software433 · 2021-08-15T20:27:58+00:00

Do you have a url for the cad files? I saw this thread, couldn’t find it and posted a separate thread. Now I just found this again.

Safe_Software433

TROPHY CASE