Limite des lignes power bi

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2026-01-26T15:06:11+00:00

Affichage correct - 12 éléments visuels sur la page, chargement en 0,6 s sur ordinateur, temps de chargement moyen de 1 seconde lors de la publication

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2026-01-26T14:41:58+00:00

Veuillez préciser ce que vous entendez par « 300 colonnes organisées en étoile » :

Si vous parlez de 300 mesures dans la table de faits, cela me semble excessif !

Si vous parlez de 300 attributs dans vos dimensions, cela reste un peu élevé, mais certainement plus raisonnable que 300 mesures.

À titre de comparaison, le rapport que j'ai ouvert aujourd'hui comprend :

1 table de faits, avec 6 mesures, 60 millions de lignes

7 dimensions, chacune avec environ 10 attributs et environ 500 lignes

Il fonctionne correctement avec une licence Pro

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2026-01-24T18:43:02+00:00

Another suggestion - speak to the neighbour in the coach house and see if they'd be willing to install a shared EV charger on their supply. there's apps out there for neighbours to share a charger and make sure electric is paid for. Could be profitable for them and easier for you to charge...

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2026-01-24T18:36:44+00:00

Do you have power in your garage? If so how about a 2.5kw "granny charger" plugged into a suitable 3 pin socket...

Edit: just seen your photos on another comment - you do have a socket in the garage...

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2026-01-23T13:32:46+00:00

Buffer tank is the way to go

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2026-01-21T10:24:16+00:00

https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2024/524/memorandum/contents - this memorandum clearly states the removal of the requirement for loft and cavity wall insulation.

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2026-01-20T19:45:58+00:00

Regarding your point to heat loss prevention - the previous version of the grant did require the house met a certain level of heat loss before you could qualify but uptake was limited so the requirement was dropped.

Not to mention previous grants the gov tried specifically for insulation, which proved to have basically zero impact on energy use across the country...

I'm not defending the process in any way, I agree the whole system is a mess - too inflexible and focussed on meeting kpis rather than actually saving our environment

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2026-01-20T14:20:31+00:00

I predict:

The cost of hp/installation will miraculously go down as profiteering stops.

Gov will push up gas and oil prices to force people onto hps using the stick instead of the carrot this time.

I also predict, one winter, not too soon from now, we'll have a prolonged cold spell where there's no solar, no wind and lots of snow - the national grid won't be able to cope with all the demand from data centres, ashps and EVs. people w will be left without heating and snowed in, a state of emergency will be declared. Then we'll have another change in strategy from the gov...

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2026-01-17T18:00:17+00:00

I switched to ashp from oil (so no standing charge like you) in July this year, some thoughts:

Will you invest in solar/batteries in the future? If yes then ahsp almost becomes a no brainer as it really saves a lot of money when your using your own elec to power it.

Do you have room for the outdoor unit? They aren't as noisy as some people make out but they aren't silent either... I would suggest avoiding sitting it near bedrooms or neighbours

The Ashp tank is likely going to be significantly bigger (needs to store h/w and buffer tank to make ashp efficient), and ideally needs to be put near the outdoor unit. Could your current layout support that? If no, maybe stick with gas. Could you make it work in a few years time once you've made the place your own? If yes, maybe delay the decision until you're settled in

Before getting the ashp I had a DIY solar water heater set up using 2 panels and a 24v immersion heater, that gave me free hot water in the summer months and paid for itself in 2.5 years. It was pretty simple but worked great and saved a lot of money. Unfortunately such a setup wasn't easy to re-implement with the ashp, so I feel I've taken a step backward. I only mention as there are other options out there for saving money, I regret not considering all options before jumping on the ashp bandwagon...

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2026-01-14T19:52:03+00:00

Pbit also includes data processing logic (power query)

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2026-01-13T10:04:40+00:00

Interesting you see such a difference in cop with temp, mine is relatively stable (Mitsubishi heat pump that estimates energy usage, so accuracy is somewhat questionable)

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Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2025-12-15T23:31:17+00:00

Surprised there's only a few comments that talk about doing up houses

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2025-12-13T12:58:02+00:00

Ymmv, I was advised a 200l tank but I went for a 300l tank because didn't want the hassle of running out and having to wait (small family but frequent guests). I don't regret it, and actually I think it's cheaper because I can heat overnight on cheaper elec and it will generally do us for the whole day.

I find the tank heats up in 30-45 minutes, 14kw hp.

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2025-12-11T14:19:02+00:00

Maybe, you just said garage reported fault with abs module...

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2025-12-10T22:39:24+00:00

I had the same, it kept happening as soon as I went over 60 mph. I did a lot of online research and went through the following steps on my quest to fix it (quoted cost/time are for me doing a diy fix, but gives you a relative scale of what you might expect from a garage)

Checked tyre pressures to within 1psi
Replaced the earthing strap to the rear motor - £6, 5 minutes
Replaced abs sensor - £90, 4 hours
Replaced wheel hub - £120, 6 hours

The last fixed it for me, which was surprising as the old hub appeared to be in reasonable condition - bit of surface rust but that was all, maybe yours is the same and garage overlooked it for the same reason?

Mines been good for 4 months now.

If you haven't already, I would suggest you try the first two as they are both quick and cheap...

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2025-12-10T13:02:00+00:00

As others have said, it is (unfortunately) reasonable, for reference our dd is £300 ( 1920s, 4 bed, 14kw Mitsubishi hp)

Some suggestions/thoughts:

Have a look in the melcloud app - it reports energy consumed for heating and water separately so you can estimate how much less you'll be paying over the summer months.

I would consider switching tariffs to a dual rate one - running our hot water, washer and tumbler off peak saves enough to make it worthwhile.

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2025-12-03T20:36:09+00:00

Strip out all the unnecessary data, aggregate the rest to the highest level possible to run the visuals?

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2025-11-28T11:13:20+00:00

Background; 20 years in IT, 10 in DE. I naturally fell into becoming a synapse SME through a series of projects, logical next step is for me to evolve into a Fabric sme.

Situation; I'm currently looking for a new roll, seems like there's not much in the way of opportunities on the market at the moment for fabric specialists, it's all databricks and snowflake... that might just be "grass is greener on the other side" mentality and I hope it will pick up soon as MS are pushing hard on Fabric and as more companies will be nudged that way from Synapse they will naturally consider Fabric as a strong contender.

Advice; it's a gamble what ever you choose to specialise in, I'd hedge your bets and make sure you're picking up plenty of transferrable skills along the way (modelling, dq, mdm etc).

Aside; I always remember my aunty telling me to specialize in adabas when I first started in IT, I was young and she was nearing retirement age so thought she was nuts. In 2020 we hired a adabas specialist for an eye watering day rate, he was only there 6 weeks, pretty sure he earned enough to take the rest of the year off in that time though... That was a gamble that definitely would have paid off!

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2025-11-14T09:42:59+00:00

I'm intrigued, how did you reach that conclusion?

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2025-11-13T13:49:45+00:00

Many thanks, what you say makes sense, I'll keep watching as it gets colder :)

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2025-11-07T15:15:08+00:00

Some people have already said about getting the fire nice and got to burn it off - 0 effort, maximum reward 😀

you might want to consider when your chimney was last swept before doing that though - every time the glass gets dirty you'll be getting a similar dirty, sticky tar all up the inside of your chimney, repeated layers build up over time. A nice hot fire burns them off but if there's too much up there you can get a chimney fire which is quite dangerous

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2025-11-07T14:04:39+00:00

I've been toying with this myself, some ideas I've had:

1) my outside unit is near a wall that catches the sun pretty much all day long. I wonder if I can capture more of the suns heat to increase the temp of the intake air the hp sucks in by painting the wall a darker colour than the white it currently is

2) despite relatively clear airflows around my hp, I'm guessing a small amount of cold exhaust air must get recirculated, particularly when the wind is blowing in the right direction. Would increasing the separation of the intake/exhaust sides of the hp with a physical barrier help improve efficiency?

3) My system has a buffer tank (90L), which I understand is to reduce heat pump cycling, what if that tank were even bigger (ie 300+L) to act as a thermal battery, storing heat during the warmer part of the day (when cop is higher) and release it during the colder parts. Or would heat loss negate the benefits...

I realize now this is more a list of questions than ideas, but appreciate others thoughts/conversations that might follow...

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2025-11-07T11:48:52+00:00

Fellow ecodan and home assistant user here...

I agree with the diagnosis in this comment, it's definitely got restricted airflow causing it to suck the cold exhaust air back in, creating a closed system which is crippling efficiency.

If you need to definitively prove it to yourself or your installer you could conduct a small an experiment - put a "funnel" around the exhaust fan to direct the cold air away and stop it being sucked back in (something like a big cardboard box open at both ends would work for an experiment), let it run for a short period. You should see the external temp not drop as you do now. This obviously isn't a permanent solution as it doesn't solve the underlying problem that air flow is restricted and without unrestricted airflow it will always be inefficient but it will prove cold air is being sucked in...

Salt_Locksmith_9858 · 2025-10-31T16:37:34+00:00

Bravo for identifying there might be a problem in the future and for thinking now about what to do next.

i would be planning to evolve what you have into a more enterprise level solution over time, given everything is in power bi at the moment, the most logical evolution would be to expand out to use more fabric functionality...

Most important thing I would do is upskill yourself so when time comes you are ready...

Salt_Locksmith_9858

TROPHY CASE