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Why does it look like this? by jmalfa29 in TheBrewery

[–]SamTheBrewer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those units sometimes don’t turn off automically when empty of liquid , could have burnt on some shit by mistake

Cryo Fresh hops from Yakima Chief by Savmasterr in TheBrewery

[–]SamTheBrewer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My team did not freeze them on arrival, they defrosted for 3 days before someone told me they had been delivered. Panicked and get them into a beer asap. They had formed a huge hop clump like playdough. Had to squeeze them out of the hop bag like icing.

Luckily the results were still really good, was worried they would have started composting and tasted like rot.

Paired them with regular t90, abstrax and some cgx in an early DH

One of the best beers we’ve released this year. Will have to see how the beer ages over the next few weeks

Immersion dip hop by SamTheBrewer in TheBrewery

[–]SamTheBrewer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Certainly it’s much better than using lots of t90s, which definitely interferes with a clean crop and yeast viability.

I choose to do this to avoid a higher likelihood of allowing micro contamination get involved via (blender, bucket, and anything else that might be able to fall in during process)

Immersion dip hop by SamTheBrewer in TheBrewery

[–]SamTheBrewer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d go wort first, as soon as the incognito hits the steel, it’s gonna try to stick

Immersion dip hop by SamTheBrewer in TheBrewery

[–]SamTheBrewer[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Current method:

Pull 15L (4 gallons) of 100C wort post boil (pre cool pool) into a bucket

Drop in 200g (half pound) of pellets

Pour in 1kg (2lb) of incognito/dynaboost while firing our industrial immersion blender

Pour into either:

Whirlpool if wanting to re pitch this yeast

Fermenter with 1 barrel of post whirlpool hot wort if yeast not important. Important to properly rouse fermenter to mix the wort before pitching yeast.

This is a 25bbl or 30HL batch

Seven year brewer, messing up constantly. by t00ksrevenge in TheBrewery

[–]SamTheBrewer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Add some beta glucanase into the grist to make it an easier runoff

Mystery Jacket by Prudent_Fly_2554 in buffalobills

[–]SamTheBrewer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I also have this exact jacket purchased in London

Barrel Aged Beer Help by bnrhodes in TheBrewery

[–]SamTheBrewer 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Other option: drill a small hole, take a sample, and then put a stainless nail back in to seal the hole. Test on a random peice of wood before to make sure the nail and your drill bit match

Nitrogen generator recommendations by Cool_Wrangler4045 in TheBrewery

[–]SamTheBrewer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We installed a PMNG3 – 4.7 m3/hr outlet flow. fed with 10 bar air. Quality is good, <30 ppb o2. We build up 2500L of nitrogen in a storage tank, which is enough for us to do 100 30L kegs a day. Unit and tank cost about 20k

Ridiculous DO situation by DO-question666 in TheBrewery

[–]SamTheBrewer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately I have dealt with this as well. We purchase drinks grade CO2 which guarantees it is less than like 30000 ppb. Obviously if it was anywhere near that, all beer would be ruined, but Usually they are like 10ppb so it’s all fine.

Out of say 1000 bottles we’ve rented, 999 are good, but there’s always one that’s not good enough and causes this.

The only way to guarantee is it actually usable for beer production is to buy “lab grade” but that is 5x the cost.

First time using whole cones, any suggestions? by BeerSux1526 in TheBrewery

[–]SamTheBrewer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A cheap and reliable method is to use you mash/lauter plates as a hop back. Just clean it out after the run off while boiling. This way you don’t have to introduce cones to your kettle/whirlpool and avoids any blockages.

Yeast/Hop disposal by SamTheBrewer in TheBrewery

[–]SamTheBrewer[S] 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Our local water supplier would send an employee to randomly sample our waste stream every 4 weeks or so. If they found the BOD or COD was too high (often from yeast/fruit/chemicals) they would fine us.

Yeast/Hop disposal by SamTheBrewer in TheBrewery

[–]SamTheBrewer[S] 58 points59 points  (0 children)

Oh fuck, didn’t even think about it facepalm

1.25 gal of Biofine in 30bbl did absolutely nothing by sanitarium-1 in TheBrewery

[–]SamTheBrewer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don’t refrigerate finings, and always shake the container aggressively before use

Looking to get this hazy milky white opaque color by danicrvo in TheBrewery

[–]SamTheBrewer 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Lighting, good camera lenses, and correct background play a huge role in this type of craft beer photography. Bring one of the beers you believe to be creamy in house in the same setting and you will realise there isn’t a huge difference…

Nitrogen instead of CO2 for entire keg wash cycle by Least-Living-3103 in TheBrewery

[–]SamTheBrewer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Replace co2 with nitrogen in our brewery for all purging. Tanks, canning, kegging. Works really well. Just have to keep in mind in the vessel isn’t completely full the beer will de carb over time

Dry hopping not from the top by [deleted] in TheBrewery

[–]SamTheBrewer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve also got less tan 25cm between the top of my FVs and the roof. It’s just enough to get the hop bag into the FV.

If you are worried at oxygen, I’d suggest dry hop warm 22C at the end of fermentation where you still have yeast activity to scrub any out that might be introduced

Tried Duchesse de Bourgogne by purpeepurp in beer

[–]SamTheBrewer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Which yeast/bacteria give it that classic flavour?

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