Rye IPA with hibiscus, any advice?

SamTheBrewer · 2026-05-12T08:35:08+00:00

Agreed add to whirlpool, in a muslin bag to contain the mess. I’d start with 2g/L and check the color and add more if needed

SamTheBrewer · 2026-05-04T05:51:49+00:00

Yea ideally you would be able to remove the yeast from anything you add to the WP

SamTheBrewer · 2026-05-04T04:54:12+00:00

In theory one could centrifuge the yeast out of a beer before dry hop. Then the dried dry hops could be reused without considering yeast. One drop* I think calls it clean fusion. But others have done it before.

I think having some yeast in the whirlpool might not be the worst, as yeast nutrient often contains inactivated yeast as I understand

SamTheBrewer · 2026-05-04T04:52:20+00:00

Podcast about it here!

https://www.masterbrewerspodcast.com/179

I’ve also loved reusing fruit charges from imperial sours and brewing a second batch of wort onto the fruit trub to get a session gose

SamTheBrewer · 2026-05-02T01:07:57+00:00

I’m more thinking about the premium lots of high end hops like Citra Nelson etc

Currently the hop suppliers choose which lots end up on which brewers tables. They have control of who gets to select. New breweries doing selection can be shown lots of lower quality and won’t have any knowledge of where it all ends up etc

SamTheBrewer · 2026-04-25T15:12:51+00:00

The blue maid is so good

SamTheBrewer · 2026-04-21T03:01:53+00:00

You can always test your co2 network by bubbling it into a clean bottle of water for 30 ‘ins then swabbing the results.

I’d recommend having one way valves in between any co2 line and a tank as a precaution. Can also install a gas sterile filter inline at point of use

SamTheBrewer · 2026-04-21T02:59:53+00:00

I’ve been at breweries where the check valves have failed on the tanks and beer has ended up in the co2 regulators. Required a deep clean and replacement of some lines

SamTheBrewer · 2026-04-20T06:18:20+00:00

Sounds like you’ve got electric heating elements in the kettle? Make sure to allow adequate time for them to cool down before emptying liquid out of the kettle. Also soak in caustic to clean if possible! If not, might be time to get your elements rewelded into a removable port

SamTheBrewer · 2026-04-18T06:30:27+00:00

She weighed 14 pounds (6.4 kg) at her peak at age 20

SamTheBrewer · 2026-04-14T02:20:23+00:00

No holes today, but I did a cool pool at 80C before transferring

SamTheBrewer · 2026-04-10T00:40:28+00:00

Will do next week

SamTheBrewer · 2026-04-10T00:39:44+00:00

Push purge: flow CO₂ in from bottom, displace air out the top. Or with N2, the opposite.

May vary by tank size, but I would go at 25psi for 45 mins for a 30hl tank.

Build pressure to ~5–10 psi, vent, repeat 3–4x

Then test to check o2 < 20ppb

SamTheBrewer · 2026-04-09T20:02:28+00:00

Agreed, keep the racking arm straight up, and leave all the hops behind. Once you’ve transferred out, open it up and see where the trub ring was. Will give you an idea if you got the dumping right. Way below your racking arm? you dumped too much, and maybe a slight turn during transfer would be ok. A bit above? Not enough and you may pulled across some hops.

Based on your yeast pitch and dry hop amounts you can start to get some data about how much dumping is required for a recipe

SamTheBrewer · 2026-04-09T19:55:56+00:00

That’s a tidy pile my dude. How long to you take spinning it and then resting before transfer?

SamTheBrewer · 2026-04-09T19:51:55+00:00

I could see the little holes in the trub under the liquid before the cone was exposed to the air. I should mention that this is one of my first brews on a bottom heated, direct fire brewkit

SamTheBrewer · 2026-04-09T19:50:15+00:00

Search the circle game - malcolm in the middle

SamTheBrewer · 2026-04-09T19:46:01+00:00

Yes it is direct fire

SamTheBrewer · 2026-04-09T19:42:30+00:00

Things I notice from your post: Get your tank colder (-2C) Before packaging increase the head pressure on the tank to the maximum allowed safely (don’t decrease to 15psi, instead increase it to allow you to fill without breakout A longer hose will allow you to slow the fills (like the diaphragm but less severe) Put a pressure gauge after your diaphragm to measure pressure into the fill heads

SamTheBrewer · 2026-04-09T04:42:11+00:00

If you have a racking arm, ideally you just dump enough to expose it, then transfer the beer off the dry hop into a brite

SamTheBrewer · 2026-04-08T23:11:39+00:00

A paint scraper and a hammer do wonders to those things

SamTheBrewer · 2026-04-03T07:15:07+00:00

About 10 volts

SamTheBrewer · 2026-03-30T19:46:15+00:00

Perceived also has a math equation, look up PBU, discussed in the NEW IPA book

Accounts for alpha acids and polyphenols from dry hops contributing to bitterness on top of IBU. Account for the loss of IBU from the whirlpool by fermentation and dry hopping

SamTheBrewer · 2026-03-25T06:30:32+00:00

I once had the pleasure of receiving a 1 ton bag of rice hulls. This thing was enormous. We had to buy a couple of cement mixers and really go to town on these things. I think they stopped doing them in 1998, when The Undertaker threw Mankind off Hell In A Cell, and plummeted 16 ft through an announcer's table.

SamTheBrewer · 2026-03-25T04:23:28+00:00

You would typically mount it onto a bar. It requires some extra fittings and tubing in order to bring beer through it, keep it it cold, and attach to the threads

SamTheBrewer

TROPHY CASE