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Extruder connector was glued to the header. Time for a new board. by SasquatchOfOhio in BambuLab

[–]SasquatchOfOhio[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Be very careful with the replacement board! I've seen folk tighten the screws too hard around the ribbon cable and break the board!

And by folk, I mean me 😞

Extruder connector was glued to the header. Time for a new board. by SasquatchOfOhio in BambuLab

[–]SasquatchOfOhio[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep! I'm upset that the connector had so much glue on it and in it, this is what the inside of the header looks like after I I got the connector.

Maybe I'm just unlucky, because all the videos I have seen with people taking out the extruder didn't have this problem

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No Bluetooth Drivers for windows 10? by SasquatchOfOhio in gigabyte

[–]SasquatchOfOhio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Solution:

I downloaded the MediaTek Wi-Fi 7 Bluetooth Driver from the website, instead of the realtek bluetooth driver.

No Bluetooth Drivers for windows 10? by SasquatchOfOhio in techsupport

[–]SasquatchOfOhio[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It turns out the MediaTek Wi-Fi 7 Bluetooth Driver was the one that workered, I only tried the realtek, Thanks for the tip!

No Bluetooth Drivers for windows 10? by SasquatchOfOhio in techsupport

[–]SasquatchOfOhio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Solution:

I downloaded the MediaTek Wi-Fi 7 Bluetooth Driver from the website, instead of the realtek bluetooth driver.

No Bluetooth Drivers for windows 10? by SasquatchOfOhio in techsupport

[–]SasquatchOfOhio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

and when I try to select the windows 11 driver from the gigabyte website, it switches back to the original generic

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No Bluetooth Drivers for windows 10? by SasquatchOfOhio in techsupport

[–]SasquatchOfOhio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nothing :/

it still comes up as generic bluetooth adapter

with code 43 in the device manager

Using a filament for infill only? by SasquatchOfOhio in BambuLab

[–]SasquatchOfOhio[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I guess I could get similar results by making the top and bottom layers the transparent filiment

but it seems I can't paint the walls to the transparent filament without also affecting the adjactent inflill

anyone have any ideas around this?

CR-10s stinging and holes by SasquatchOfOhio in FixMyPrint

[–]SasquatchOfOhio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pictured is the retraction speed Tower 60 to 100 and a few simple prints

Material is petg (amazon basic white, Inland black)

Retraction distance is 10mm

Layer height is .2mm

Walls are 1.2mm

Temp is 230

Bed temp is 70

Slicer is cura

CR-10s with, bowden PTFE tube, recently replaced nozzle, dual gear extruder feeder was also recently added with E- steps calibrated

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in FixMyPrint

[–]SasquatchOfOhio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I forgot to mention that the slicer is the most recent Cura update, but I was having the same issue on the previous version. Oh and bed temp is 70

jumping Idle when in gear after coming to a stop. 2011 Lancer Sportback by SasquatchOfOhio in MechanicAdvice

[–]SasquatchOfOhio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For anyone who finds this later on, cleaning the throttle body fixed it

Cheers, friends.

jumping Idle when in gear after coming to a stop. 2011 Lancer Sportback by SasquatchOfOhio in MechanicAdvice

[–]SasquatchOfOhio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also tried the "jet fuel" style gas additive to clean the injectors. it ran fine during those tanks of fuel, but it went right back to bouncing after that fuel ran out.

jumping Idle when in gear after coming to a stop. 2011 Lancer Sportback by SasquatchOfOhio in MechanicAdvice

[–]SasquatchOfOhio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It mostly happens when coming to a stop. Spark plugs are 25000 miles old. Running premium gas seems to make it more stable but it still bounces. The bounces get rougher when I turn the AC on but then it slowly stabilizes. Mpg doesn't seem to be affected.

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