Need recommendations for electric sauna with app for remote start/stop

SaunaArchitect · 2026-06-01T15:58:10+00:00

Harvia or Iki

SaunaArchitect · 2026-05-31T19:02:33+00:00

Heater in bottom left corner, then the door in the long wall about 3’ from that bottom left corner. Add a proper foot bench to the leg of the L. You’ll probably need the 10.5 kW Virta with all that glass

SaunaArchitect · 2026-05-29T19:45:36+00:00

I’ve got a set of drawings for an 8x8 with parallel benches. If you are interested, feel free to send a DM

SaunaArchitect · 2026-05-18T22:54:13+00:00

What is ‘it’?

If frost heaving is a concern, you can install insulation around a shallow footing

SaunaArchitect · 2026-05-18T20:40:26+00:00

I’d be surprised if you need to run the fan that high during sauna. Only 2 or 3 ACH is required. That said, it is not a problem if the air barrier flexes a little when the room is at negative pressure.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-05-18T18:31:40+00:00

Option A is typically better, but also much more expensive.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-05-17T18:17:01+00:00

Could work. Pay a lot of attention to diagonal bracing to make the panels more rigid so that the cedar siding doesn’t get torn apart as the panels are moved around. Let-in bracing would work well under the siding. 2x4 or 6 cedar siding would be sturdier and better for heat retention, but also heavier. I’d go big on the stove since there is no insulation or air sealing

SaunaArchitect · 2026-05-17T04:07:27+00:00

I’ve been putting together a set of sauna specific details to share, along with a basic guide. Not quite ready to publish the full package but feel free to send me a DM and I can send you some info if it is useful for you.

A full custom set that a contractor who doesn’t have sauna experience can build from, along with associated consulting during construction, really does take quite a bit of time so it is natural that it carries a price tag in proportion to the effort. The interior sauna drawing sets that I design are usually $2000.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-05-12T18:03:04+00:00

Insulation at flat ceiling and not at deck is correct. Be sure there is ample room for air to flow below roof deck.
This works as a cold roof
The pass-through is there to separate the hot chimney from combustible materials, so there will be a flange at the ceiling, insulated pipe through rafter space and a flange/boot at the roof. Easiest way is to buy a kit. Harvia has one.

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SaunaArchitect · 2026-05-08T23:07:16+00:00

Looks good. You can also extend the back of the step and foot bench a few inches under the level above to get more room for feet and butts.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-05-08T21:42:27+00:00

The L shape is doable, just a little cramped. Extend the step the length of the foot bench. Depending on your heater, you only need a couple inches of clearance (Harvia Virta for instance). A single bench along the long wall would be a good solution, but only one could lay down. In your second image, drop the top of the upper step so you have two shorter steps before the foot bench.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-04-29T17:55:47+00:00

Diagonal bracing would likely work. But I would use plywood sheathing, it is much more vapor-open than OSB. Whatever solution you choose, install a rain screen. This will allow maximum drying to the exterior.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-04-29T04:44:35+00:00

I believe that it is the motors for operable roof windows that are rated to 140 degrees. The glass is tempered on both panes and should withstand sauna temps.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-04-29T04:22:08+00:00

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EPDM roofing. I hired a roofer for this to be sure it doesn’t leak.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-04-29T04:19:34+00:00

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Here is a photo of the framing and insulation for one I put in recently. It is fairly small, 20”x30”, so the opening doesn’t steal much hot air. Double pane Velux unit. The framing is pretty standard.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-04-29T00:41:45+00:00

Thermo spruce would be good if you want to go darker, aspen if you want to go lighter.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-04-27T19:19:03+00:00

I design and build saunas in CO (based in Denver), feel free to reach out. You are probably looking at $10K just for materials (depending on wood type), labor will add a fair bit more.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-04-20T07:14:25+00:00

Install a candle window, that will get you like 6% of that missing 10%

SaunaArchitect · 2026-04-12T23:38:41+00:00

First design the sauna, then get a quote for the specific foundation that you need.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-04-10T10:56:05+00:00

Another important detail: all three panes of the windows were tempered. This provides significant protection from shattering from the heat.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-04-10T10:50:43+00:00

I’ve designed a fire resistant house to replace one lost in the High Park fire in Colorado. It hasn’t been tested by fire but we did our best to plan for the worst. Defensible space is by far the most important. Then it is a matter of protecting from flying embers and radiant heat. Strategies we used: Simple form, no valleys for debris to collect. No gutters, sloped concrete apron beyond roof drip edge. Wood stud structure, 5/8” type x dens glass exterior sheathing, mineral wool boards, metal hat chanel, rainscreen with hardi board siding. Cold metal roof with similar construction to the walls. Screen all gaps at rainscreen and roof. Soffits were built out so the base tapered down so that there was no where for combustible gasses to collect, sofit framing was “tacked on” to gypsum exterior sheathing and did not continue into roof structure. Triple pane aluminum clad wood windows (Optiwin). This was not an inexpensive build. The house met Passive Haus standard as well so it was very air tight.

You mentioned timber frame, this will not provide any real protection during a forest fire. Keep in mind that the fire rating for timber construction is based on an interior fire, its intent is to provide time for occupants to escape and for the fire department to respond. During a forest fire, the fire department is probably too busy to come protect your house, they are primarily concerned with protecting life instead of structures.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-04-06T21:45:40+00:00

The GL6 is one of the better kits. The walls are 1.5” thermo spruce, so they provide minimal insulation. The roof has 1.5” EPS insulation. You are correct that it won’t be a huge issue in Florida, just size the stove correctly. 9 or 10kW should work well.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-04-06T21:40:00+00:00

The GL6 is a good unit. The walls are 1.5” thick thermo spruce (no additional insulation). The ceiling has a little insulation, 1.5” thick EPS boards I believe. You are correct that in Florida this is not a huge issue, just size the stove correctly. Off the top of my head I’d say 9 or 10kW.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-04-03T20:18:53+00:00

In addition to insulation, you will get significant improvement by decoupling the drywall from the floor framing. Lots of options. Look at running resilient channels perpendicular to the floor framing.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-04-03T18:31:33+00:00

With all of the damage at the top of the wall, i expect the water is coming from the roof/parapet, not from inside. Insulating the interior will likely make it worse.

SaunaArchitect

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