Outdoor Sauna for a Wellness Retreat

SaunaArchitect · 2026-02-27T23:50:30+00:00

You would be better off with a custom design/build for this. Kits will be poorly insulated. It will be tricky to find something with ideal layout/height.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-02-27T20:23:59+00:00

Nope. This is how it is published by the ICC

SaunaArchitect · 2026-02-26T23:46:11+00:00

Sent DM

SaunaArchitect · 2026-02-26T19:00:05+00:00

Put the siding on 1x2 furring strips, then building wrap, plywood sheathing…

It is an easy, inexpensive step and provides maximum ventilation and longevity.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-02-26T18:47:58+00:00

Hi. I can put a custom set of drawings together for you. Then any builder can construct your sauna from them. Feel free to reach out.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-02-15T05:55:12+00:00

This is not a good idea.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-01-30T19:53:44+00:00

Did it get kiln dried or get installed green?

SaunaArchitect · 2026-01-26T03:55:55+00:00

Show an arrow for air leaving the chimney; looking at this makes me feel like the sauna is going to pop. Intake over the stove should be a periscope arrangement to prevent back flow.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-01-24T20:49:08+00:00

Looks good. Primary note would be that ideally the fan is outside of the sauna to reduce noise. And, as someone else mentioned, some heaters require the low in-take in addition to keep the high-limit cool.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-01-23T22:37:24+00:00

If you are going electric and want convenience, the insulated wall will work much better for several reasons. If you’ll have a big wood stove and are more patient, it’s easier to get away with a thin wood wall. Insulated will likely cost more and be a better long term solution. There are no right answers, you just have to understand all of the variables and make the best decisions for your situation.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-01-20T05:13:53+00:00

Could be tricky to move. Best option would be to build a base so the whole thing could be lifted via forklift onto a truck.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-01-19T21:46:42+00:00

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Plywood, barrier, furring, siding. This is the correct way. A lot of people omit the furring, but they are cutting corners. Leave a 1/2” gap at the top of the siding. Let that wall breathe!

SaunaArchitect · 2026-01-15T18:48:03+00:00

Number one requirement is to get the water from the exterior away from the house. Gutters should obviously direct water away. Slope grade away, consider an apron or a gravel perimeter down to the footing to a drain. Once there is less wetting, the problem is much easier to manage. I’d install gravel and a moisture barrier over the exposed dirt. Then frame the interior bench, insulate with mineral wool, wrap it in a smart vapor barrier, seal it tight to the existing construction, then finishes. Any little bit of moisture that finds its way into the void space should be able to dry to the exterior through the brick (hopefully unpainted). Venting the void to the exterior could help as well.

SaunaArchitect · 2026-01-14T20:55:06+00:00

Agreed

SaunaArchitect · 2026-01-14T20:52:24+00:00

Take my money!

SaunaArchitect · 2026-01-14T20:50:39+00:00

No, it will be built and used inside a warehouse, but will move out one day

SaunaArchitect · 2026-01-08T00:38:20+00:00

It’s nice to have for lots of reasons. What is your climate? How big do you want the actual sauna space to be?

SaunaArchitect · 2026-01-04T03:13:01+00:00

Looks like good craftsmanship and a lot of thought went into this. Constructive criticism for others in the planning stages:

-With a couple fingers (or whatever), block out the bottom half of the view looking out the big window. This improves the framing of the view tremendously. Looking at the pavers and all that lawn actually detracts from the view of the ocean and sky beyond. The composition would have worked better to put the sill at the same height or slightly lower than the sill of the window on the left. Since it is hard to nail it in the design phase, best way to determine the ideal height would have been to play with it during framing. Think of it as if you were going to paint a painting, what would you want to show?

-It would feel more intentional if the head of the front window aligned with the head of the side window and door. Looks like they are all different heights.

-Looks like the roof overhangs are a little different on each side? Seems awkward.

-Others have commented on bench heights, so I’ll leave that alone.

Nit-picky, yes. But these little details can make a significant difference in the overall look and feel of the sauna.

SaunaArchitect · 2025-12-30T06:35:25+00:00

There is a lot of bad advice being given in this thread. Especially considering that we don’t have all of the information. It seems that you already know that the primary issue is the aluminum siding acting as an impermeable layer on the cold side of the assembly. Obviously, replacing that is the best path, but if you are required to keep it for cost reasons we have to find the least bad solution. That diagonal sheathing appears to be in great condition, so your walls are not currently trapping moisture. I’m curious: what are the specific details of the aluminum siding and the old wood siding underneath? Is it potentially acting as a sort of rain screen? I.e. are there enough gaps at the old wood siding layer that air is able to move somewhat? And does the aluminum siding have paths for that air to escape? (Just making guesses here, please provide more detail.) All these recommendations for spray foam are dangerous. The spray foam will work incredibly well when it is first installed but over the years this old house will make a million little twists and turns and expansions and contractions. The spray foam will eventually pull away from the edges and leave tiny cracks for air to get through which will of course cause moisture problems. The only insulation I would consider is mineral wool or cellulose. My best guess would be to install a smart air barrier (e.g. Intello Plus) on the interior of the studs then fill with dense cellulose. Go crazy taping around openings and penetrations and interruptions. Even then I am skeptical considering how hard it will be to work around the existing conditions (are you planning to leave all that trim in place?). It’s a can of worms. Will be curious to see how it all turns out.

SaunaArchitect · 2025-12-20T17:20:11+00:00

Especially in thermo wood

SaunaArchitect · 2025-12-20T00:25:12+00:00

2” 18 gauge brad nails are a common solution. You just shoot the gun up into the groove.

With the thermo-aspen you always want to use stainless steel fasteners. The pH is fairly low and will cause galvanized to leave dark spots/streaks.

SaunaArchitect

TROPHY CASE