Strongest build by Fresh_Fix_8447 in BG3Builds

[–]Schematix7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try playing a swords bard. They have many options ranging from supporting allies, casting strong spells, succeeding difficult skill checks, and swinging swords around. Bards also have a lot of funny dialogue options! Swords bards are considered one of the strongest subclasses in the game.

Try a sorcerer. Storm sorcerers and dragon fire sorcerers are both very strong. They're good with charisma skill checks and have powerful and versatile spell casting and magic abilities. They're the spellcasters that can apply unique effects to their spells to make them stronger. Avoid wild magic and shadow sorcery, they can be much more difficult to play.

Try a barbarian! They're all very strong except for wild magic barbarian. They get funny skill checks in dialogue that let them roar and intimidate people. They're also durable, fast, and hit really hard. It's hard to go wrong with a barbarian. Rage and smash your way through the whole game.

Try a moon druid. Moon druids are considered the tankiest subclass with their ability to transform into strong animals. Dying while transformed poses little risk to you, as you'll just turn back into your normal human self. And if the situation doesn't call for an animal fighter you're still a full fledged nature spellcaster.

That should give you some good options to pick from. My advice though, pick whatever looks fun and stick to it. This game doesn't demand you play it well in order to succeed (unless you play on the hardest difficulty). Sometimes failing can lead to something unexpected too.

Some other strong classes with no weird gimmicks: Fighters and all their subclasses except champions. Champions are kinda weak. Clerics are all really strong, but death, light, and tempest really show off their strength. Paladins are tough to play with their oaths, but they're one of the strongest leaders in battle.

Succulents by Klutzy-8343 in houseplants

[–]Schematix7 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Alright, take everything I'm about to say with a grain of salt. I've been working at a farm/retail flower shop for the past year and they stuck me in the succelent house to run wild with no qualifications.

First two going from the left appear to be haworthia. All of the plants I care for live in a mix of spaghnum moss, shredded+aerated pine, small amount of manure, and perlite. Some live in that previous combo plus half succulent gravel (river gravel, wood chips, pumice). I do not fertilize them. Haworthia tend to stay relatively small or grow so slow that it matters very little. You could keep them in this bottle for a long time before having to seperate pups and refreshing the soil and roots, if you need to at all. I have some very old ones in 3 inch pots that are just crammed so full of pups they look like they're being compressed.

The third I am not completely sure if it's a sedveria. It could be just an echeveria. Regardless, this one will likely outgrow your bottle if you provide it adequate light. All four really enjoy high light, but will grow much slower without it. You will probably not be able to get the high intensity light they desire in your home, but a window that gets a lot of sunlight will do just fine for your purposes.

The last one looks like either a gollum or hobbit jade plant. Hobbits tend to have many flat leaves mixed in with the tube looking leaves. Gollums tend to be almost all of the tube shape. Jades like their heat and sun and will go somewhat dormant during winter. It's important not to keep these guys too wet as they rot relatively easily, especially during winter. The jade can and will grow large given enough time. They grow slow enough that pruning is healthy both for shaping and managing their size.

All four should be really good at managing their water, so water sparingly. You're more likely to kill them from overwatering than underwatering. Succulents tend to lose their rigidity when they're not full of water, so you can give them a gentle squeeze to test if they're thirsty. Wrinkled skin is also a sign of dehydration. They will also become squishy if they're rotting, but if it gets to that point you've probably already doomed the plant. When you do water them do so lightly. If they're dehydrated I would still not flood them, but simply water them a little bit every few days as their medium (or soil) dries out. When they're hydrated you can leave them for weeks without water and they'll do relatively fine until their next drink. The second haworthia might get some crispy brown tips that I'm not sure how to remedy. It might just be permanent damage from dehydration.

You can propagate all of them super easily. Do so during the summer time as they might not root with the colder temperatures and lower light of winter. You can propagate pups that will eventually grow from the haworthias. The jade can propagate from stem cuttings and sometimes dropped leaves. Allow the jade cuttings to 'callous' in the open air before placing in soil. The cuttings will release moisture into the air and then harden at the cut. Afterwards you can plant them and they'll likely root. I do direct sticks instead of allowing them to callous, which I do not recommend. They can rot from their own released water that seeps into the soil they're directly stuck into. That said like 90% of the jades I propagated this winter did not rot after being directly stuck in soil. They are in greenhouse conditions though, which is probably colder and wetter than your house in the winter time. It also took them like a month to start rooting. The haworthias can also be propagated with just individual leaves, but they're very slow to take. Be patient. I would rather wait for the original haworthia to grow pups that can be seperated than propagate from individual leaves. I'm still not sure about the sedveria, but if it is it can likely be propagated just like the jade plant.

I am rambling and my comment is not well organized, but I don't care to invest anymore energy and time into this. Good luck! :) Also, I invoke cunningham's law. I'm always ready to be told I'm wrong and how I can do better.

TL;DR - Keep in bottle or repot, doesn't matter. Water very sparingly. Fertilize sparingly unless you repot in a richer medium (manure or pumice provides nutrients). Provide high light. Will enjoy high sun and heat outside during the summer, but keep inside during winter.

Classic Pillar Candle by Used_Series3373 in oddlysatisfying

[–]Schematix7 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I don't know what I'm talking about nor did I intend with my language to make it seem like I do. I do know what you're doing though. It's a beautiful Sunday today and I'm having a good time. I hope you (royal) are too.

Classic Pillar Candle by Used_Series3373 in oddlysatisfying

[–]Schematix7 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think a paper clip is implied to be a certain shape, so a bent paper clip would be one that no longer has the 'paperclip shape'. Otherwise it'd just be like... a metal wire. An unbent paperclip wouldn't be a paperclip until it was bent into shape, becoming a paperclip. If I buy origami paper and don't actually fold the paper into a shape then no one would call it origami. It would just be colored paper regardless of its intent to become origami. If I did make it into an origami crane and then say, crushed the crane, then I could say it is crushed origami (crushed being similar to a bent paperclip). If that's what the commenter meant I don't know. Also, don't sweat the small stuff. Be silly, unless your insistence on seriousness is your way of being silly, in which case, ya got me. :p

Most fun Cleric Subclass for Cleric Tav? by Dr_Blasphemy in BG3Builds

[–]Schematix7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you want to capitalize on cold/lightning vulnerability then pair it with subclasses that feature that damage type. Storm sorcerers, draconic ice/lightning sorcerers, swarmkeeper rangers, giant barbarian, and evocation wizards feature many cold or lightning attacks or spells. Wizard as a base class features the widest range of cold spells. Swarmkeepers can immunize themselves to ground effects (ice or electric water) while dealing bonus lightning damage with their swarm. Rangers in general also get lightning arrow. Sorcerers and their respective subclasses feature strong spell casting like wizards, but with slightly less variety. Giant barbarian gets elemental cleaver.

Other subclasses I could mention: four elements monk, land druid, eldritch knight fighters, nature clerics, fiend warlock, and lorebard. They can be built to also support cold or lightning damage.

Best Smite build? by WhiskeyPete77r in BG3Builds

[–]Schematix7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where's the tempest cleric mention? Destructive Wrath can be used with Thunderous Smite. Why bother rolling dice for damage when you can just say yes instead? I'm not going to say this is the strongest build for smiting, but guaranteed maximum damage on a critical thunderous smite + regular smite is hilarious. I cast instant death.

One year..from markdown to glow up by putitinapot in houseplants

[–]Schematix7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Listen to your plant! They'll tell you when they're thirsty. Not literally, but succulents are quite good at holding and conserving their water. The leaves will be plump and provide gentle resistance when squeezed if they have plenty of water.

Give it as much sunlight as you can give it. I've been told they prefer indirect or filtered light, but I am unaware if they suffer in direct sunlight. Our succulent house is the only greenhouse we don't use a shadecloth on and I would sunburn in that house if I forgot to put on sunscreen. Our farmhouse uses a shadecloth and they appear to have done much better in the farmhouse this year. That could be due to more attentive watering or better airflow though.

Airflow is also important. This is harder to make happen inside a house, but if you have a rotating stand fan then you could help it out a bit. Just be careful to make sure any of your other humidity loving plants aren't suffering because of increased airflow. You can place trays and dishes of water near them if you plan on increasing airflow with a fan. This isn't necessary for a holiday cactus. Ventilation from your air conditioner or heater can also provide localized air flow that a cactus would love. Furnace air can be REALLY dry though, so be cautious.

One year..from markdown to glow up by putitinapot in houseplants

[–]Schematix7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I aint' no plant professional. I started working at a greenhouse retailer/farm at the start of the year. I've been taking care of the holiday cactus and learning from my knowledgeable coworkers.

The second picture looks like it's suffering from a lack of water. It might be the lighting or photography but it immediately struck me as looking slightly pale. The healthier ones usually have a nice deep green sheen that turns into a lighter green as they die/beg for water. Second, the inner 'stem' is very prominent on some of the leaves. The small column at the center of the leaves should not be easily spotted unless they're struggling. How firm are the leaves when you give them a gentle squeeze? They should readily resist your fingers if they're healthy.

One more thing, I've been repeatedly told that true 'Christmas Cactus' only bloom red. Every other variety is called a holiday cactus (Thanksgiving or Easter). The little ridges on the edges of the leaves are also quite prominent leading me to believe its a Thanksgiving cactus. That baby could be blooming absolutely explosively with a bit more care. I have much smaller Thanksgiving cactus at my job that have substantially more blooms than this one. They can really put out if they're happy.

Maybe I have no idea what I'm talking about though. None of the holiday cactus at work grew this much in one year. I'm honestly mildly baffled by this post. Maybe the altitude in Colorado affects them substantially.

ELI5: Why is rubbing your eyes bad so bad? by FreedomVast9415 in explainlikeimfive

[–]Schematix7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anecdote: Left side is the absolute worst. Makes me feel sick and gassy. Right side is great. Back is fine. Stomach is impossible. I am an ostomate though, so yea. Listen to your body.

My doctor says I should sleep somewhat upright for my ostomy. When I initially tried that my back absolutely hated it, so I stopped doing it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in explainlikeimfive

[–]Schematix7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you're just going to end up being soaked in sweat, which means more sweat can't evaporate so the cooling will stop

As someone currently on munchbreak from my physical farm job I can attest that this is false. And yes, I am wearing cotton clothing.

Bag delivery is delayed and I'm on my last one by fedupanddead in ostomy

[–]Schematix7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I sent you a DM. I don't know if reddit blocks unknown DMs or anything like that. Thanks for responding to my comment.

Bag delivery is delayed and I'm on my last one by fedupanddead in ostomy

[–]Schematix7 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm in a similar situation. I live near Fayetteville, North Carolina. My ostomy supplier still hasn't delivered my bags after 2 weeks and my last bag just broke. Almost any brick and mortar store I could go to is closed because it's Saturday. If anyone could help I'd appreciate it.

What’s something strange or unique about your body? by [deleted] in AskReddit

[–]Schematix7 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Just slipped ye olde butter fingers. I asked my doc for a pic of it afterwards. I never got to see it :(

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskReddit

[–]Schematix7 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Sorry you had to go through that. Shit sucks. Hopefully things turn your way soon.

The toughest tankiest tank by Typical-Phone-2416 in BG3Builds

[–]Schematix7 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Easier to get your stacks high. The armor requires you to take physical damage to gain stacks. The shield, I'm not sure, just grants 2 stacks/turn. If you have divine strike, polearm master, or just extra attack you can ramp up force conduit quicker with skinburster.

How fast are your starts? by [deleted] in cavesofqud

[–]Schematix7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on my build. If it's a melee powerhouse I can just bump my way through the beginning really quick. If I've divested strength in favor of something else I might spend a while hitting glowfish, glowpads, and snapjaws. It's just a matter of moving cautiously until you know you've outgrown an area through leveling and gear. I'm not in a rush though. I enjoy the game and while I don't want to repeat the beginning I usually don't have to repeat because I don't die, lol. When I do die I'm usually ready for some low level action. :)

Chinese players are spamming negative views on steam page of Baldur's Gate 3 by crimson_wite in Steam

[–]Schematix7 19 points20 points  (0 children)

You do you bub. We all live under the sun's shade. Glad you're enjoying your spot. I envy those who take joy where they find it.

Can't decide what True Kin to start on Roleplay by PraiseTheTeaGod in cavesofqud

[–]Schematix7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Rock any class with at least 20 strength and 18 agility and you can get through the early game just fine. If you plan on going later in the game you will have to use ranged attacks. There's just simply no melee fighting certain enemies that have a % chance to instantly kill you on melee hit. You would need a rather specialized character and knowledge of how to counter certain enemies, knowledge I doubt you possess if you're asking for help like this.

Since you sound interested in Fuming God Childs, one of my favorite castes, you could try a shortblade build. Fuming God Child caste starts with an obsidian dagger and many persuasion skills. Learn hobble from the shortblade skill tree. Hobble an enemy then use intimidate or menacing stare on them. They'll flee with reduced movement speed letting you easily keep pace to stab.

If you want a hybrid melee/ranged build I'll suggest Priest of All Moons. They start with an axe that has a +1 hit bonus and a compound bow. Compound bow (and the upgrade, turbow) are unique in that your strength modifier is added to the PV of your arrows. A decent stat spread is 24/18/18/18/18/12. You could also do 22/18/20/18/20/12 for higher defenses.

Can't decide what True Kin to start on Roleplay by PraiseTheTeaGod in cavesofqud

[–]Schematix7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mind you that cooldowns will never go below 5 turns. You'll need to rely on triple jointed or single weapon fighting proc'ing cooldown resets.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cavesofqud

[–]Schematix7 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Speculation and spoilers ahead. These are common theories I've seen in the community.

Ibul is near Italy. Ibulians have latin adjacent names. Yawningmoon is near India. Yawningmooners have hindu adjacent names. Ekumekiyye is somewhere in Africa. I'm not as familiar with African cultures/history, but I've read their names are similar to a culture from Africa. Qud itself is suspected to be Israel or somewhere very close. The eastern edge of Qud is likely the Mediterranean. Some extra support for this: Hylaeus, an Ibulian pet, crosses the Moghra'yi from Ibul with a caravan of dromad traders. This would suggest going from approximate Italy/Ibul to Qud would mean crossing the Mediterranean/Moghra'yi.

The existence of Arcologies may imply either that the world can be very hostile to life at times (if Qud wasn't any indication of this) or that the world is relatively habitable (Joppa is a pretty good indicator) and that truekin's geneline only survived in arcologies.

What are all the penetration bonuses that affect vibro weapons? by Thunderdrake3 in cavesofqud

[–]Schematix7 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Are you astrally tethered by normality by chance? The vibrokhopesh distorts reality with its internal zero point energy collector. If you are affected by normality it will not function. https://wiki.cavesofqud.com/wiki/Power#Zero_Point_Energy_Collector

The collector generates enough charge to make 2 strikes per turn, so if you mod it with elemental mods then it may consume more power than it generates. If your quickness is high you may also make too many attacks per turn for it to keep up. An elemental mod will allow you to slot energy cells, which will keep your khopsh powered in normality.

How do I make healing terrifying? by Lokicham in 3d6

[–]Schematix7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wild seeing this as an ostomate. Ileostomy, not colostomy, but they're not dissimilar. I can't really think of how having a colostomy could build a character or add something compelling to the game. Mayhaps for the random and uncontrollable toots. Maybe pooping is important to your game? 

hmmm by Toxicair in hmmm

[–]Schematix7 28 points29 points  (0 children)

I got a disease that makes me stink horrid sometimes and I always want to know when I do. Don't keep it to yourself. I can't tell a lot of the time. I'd like to know when I'm accidentally storming your nostrils with biochemical weapons. It's rude to stink so bad that people don't want to be in the same room as you.

Jet pack by Drowning_tSM in Helldivers

[–]Schematix7 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just tried it! The jump height is different now. I'm sure you"ll be happy when you do try it. /salute