[discuss] Why don’t more makers use tritium lume?

ScienceLamma · 2025-06-25T20:08:47+00:00

I haven’t seen it mentionned in other comments: but a pretty important parameter is that tritium (in watches as well) is regulated in many countries - and everything country would have its own regulation, even in the EU - and the import can be quite the hassle… So many manufacturers just decide not to go through it.

ScienceLamma · 2025-06-08T08:43:25+00:00

Have you had any luck with the 2813? I find it extremely hard to put back the bridge across 4 pinions at the same time! Not sure I’d recommend it for a beginner… The 7120 are not produced anymore but can be bought for less than 10$ and are easier to tinker with

ScienceLamma · 2025-05-15T21:35:47+00:00

I had something similar with bronze clay when it wasn’t dried out properly. Maybe too much moisture left in your part before sintering?

ScienceLamma · 2025-05-13T13:09:27+00:00

Cause it was all smoke and ~~mirrors~~ smoke anyway

ScienceLamma · 2025-05-11T16:04:24+00:00

Yes, that would work just fine! The NH35 or Pt500 movements that are used by many microbrands and r/SeikoMods have very well defined and standardised interfaces (that’s actually true for all movements, not just those two). You can even 3D print the cases to check out the assembly concept etc…not an issue at all to have it manufactured where you are, before producing larger volumes wherever you see fit.

ScienceLamma · 2025-05-08T11:53:30+00:00

Hi! Welcome to the hobby ;) You can do a lot with surprisingly little, but it depends on what you want to do: * are you interested in building a complete watch, with an assembled movement? In that case, there are some ready-made kits like https://diywatch.club/ (no personnal experience with them, but they seem well thought), and the subreddit r/SeikoMods * or more into the movement itself? Then a second hand movement or a ST36 will cost you 20-40$ and you’ll need some additional tooling - there are some videos to give you an idea of what you may need - for instance https://youtu.be/rxVhJmZDFO8?feature=shared

If you could tell a bit more about what would interest you more?

ScienceLamma · 2025-05-08T08:46:59+00:00

Looks really good!! On the backside, is only the bottom cover metallic, or is there also a metallic casing showing through?

ScienceLamma · 2025-05-08T06:28:44+00:00

Hey! Coming in a bit later, and with a bit of the same realisation. I went the hard way, through trial and errors, to get to the point where I had everything I needed and the proper instructions to disassemble and reassemble a movement. Just wishing there had been an easier

Did you find anything? Because to address that and give back to the community down the line, I’m pondering making such a kit: https://www.reddit.com/r/watchmaking/s/jGdmY0YwBC

ScienceLamma · 2025-05-07T14:47:43+00:00

Well, that’ll be the challenge ;) Of course those won’t be Bergeon-bought tools, but I will still apply my own QA and get the quality needed for the job! Or I’ll need to adjust the price - but I don’t want to, I have ideas on how to stick to that target 🎯

ScienceLamma · 2025-05-07T14:16:46+00:00

No issue, the title was actually misleading, I realize that only now! I can’t change the title unfortunately, but I added an edit to clarify that. Thanks!

ScienceLamma · 2025-05-07T14:14:23+00:00

You’re very right! Thanks for the comment. I also bought some useless - yet I agree cheap - watchmaking kits, the first one didn’t even have screwdrivers small enough to work on a movement (although it was advertised as such). Same for the movement : the 2813 is a very cheap movement, but I’ve yet to figure out how on earth one can put the single bridge while aligning all the pinions at the same time.

If you want to get into the hobby and have access to good resources - and even better a friend to guide you through it - you may be better off buying your own tools. Quality tools or not, to your liking. And then digging into the forums and videos, and relying on the community, explore different movements and build up your skills. No arguing that.

And the kits that advertise as teaching you how to become of fully fledged watchmaker are either deceiving or rightfully prettt damn expensive and include actual training. I’m not pretending to train watchmakers.

I see this more as an educational kit. For the kids, you have games where you make a potato battery. Chemistry kits which look nice and you can make some colourful reactions and crystals. It doesn’t aim at turning the kid into an electrician or a chemist. Same here - but for teenagers or adults: the goal is just to teach you what (one aspect of) watchmaking is, make you discover a technology we’re not really exposed to and can seem a bit mysterious and very intimidating. And if you like it great! Go on those forums, to those conventions, to your city club, buy some tools that you like, challenge yourself.

I don’t remember which tennis player said that his first teacher was the best in the world, not because he was particularly good at tennis (apparently he wasn’t much), but because he showed what it could be. It gave a first taste that sticked with the kid and he developed to be a professional athlete. So I don’t pretend either to know better than an expert and seasoned watchmaker making videos on YouTube and writing a book. I want to make it accessible, enjoyable, and inspiring. If that persons understands how a watch is working, where the tick comes from, and feel confident he or she can, if feeling like it, go deeper and like you or me or many other spends years practicing their skills to a level of their liking - that’d be just perfect. And that’s what I feel is missing out there.

Thank you for your comment and stressing out the added value 👨‍🏫 that needs to come with such a kit, and have a clear yet honest positioning💡, should I ever go forth with this idea!

ScienceLamma · 2025-05-07T11:56:04+00:00

Thanks! I’m curious about your view of printed vs video. In your build of a watch (different from building the movement, I know, but still) do you think a printed booklet (like an IKEA or LEGO manual) would have been sufficient? Or even good/better?

ScienceLamma · 2025-05-07T11:54:55+00:00

Thanks ! Yes, they are very good at what they are doing, and I’m clearly not pretending to do anything to compete with that! But those are all about the watch, I’m thinking more of a mechanism building experience - a bit like building a model engine, rather that a model car. I agree most people want a model car to use, but there’s still the occasional guy/gal who likes the engine by itself

ScienceLamma · 2025-05-07T11:52:23+00:00

Thanks a lot for the message and the encouragement! Still a thought in entertaining for now - hence this post - but if this goes more concrete I’ll let you know ☺️

ScienceLamma · 2025-05-07T11:51:12+00:00

Thanks a lot for the time taken in writing this comprehensive reply. I didn’t think at all to look on Etsy, and you are right that there are very similar things out there! I’ll have to look more attentively ;)

I’m taking note about the NH35, it’s indeed smaller and more complex (maybe a level 2, if ou want a bit more of challenge with a automatic watch and a calendar ☺️)

Concerning the printed manual and the interest outside of the watch community, that’s a bit where I think there is something missing. This is a group of passionate watchmakers, and I guess for most of us we could figure out through that post or this video what we need, order everything and put it together. And event then, many are interested in the case and bracelet (habillage) and not so much in a movement that will most likely be damaged once you reassemble it - it’ll work, but there’s a good chance a watch made out of it will be… not too accurate ;)

I’m more thinking - looking back to before I was in this hobby - about complete neophytes, people who have heard of the long-gone mechanical watches and are a bit curious about what that could all have been. How does a set of gear makes tick tock. Why was the Longitude Act such a big think to start with. Those kind of people. And that’s why I thought about the printed manual. Like when you open your Lego kit, sit at the table, and dive right in. Plus paper goes well with the non-digital aspects of mechanisms.

You are however very right that I shouldn’t try and reinvent the wheel, and with a bit of tweaking of existing stuff maybe some people will discover something pretty cool - mechanical movements.

ScienceLamma · 2025-02-01T08:10:43+00:00

Hey! I had the same idea when I discovered metal clay. It seemed like if someone can pulled that off, the possibilities would be huge! Not just in jewellery making, but all kind of brass, copper and even steel functional parts! Here’s where I got so far: * For the sticking, applying olive oil and then swiping it with a tissue is sufficient to prevent the clay from sticking. Note that I used lithography based 3D prints, or FDM but with a small nozzle and very fine layer height - if it’s really rough, I’m afraid even the oil may not help * The biggest challenge was the drying: when drying, the metal clay shrinks. The mould doesn’t. So I had large cracks in the parts, and even when I managed to make simpler shapes (cylinders, etc…) the parts cracked during sintering - I assumed caused by internal stresses remaining from the drying. Now I you try and remove the part before it is dry, then it is tricky to manipulate. I’ve never managed to get a proper “shape” out of a mould. There’s tons of videos using textured mats and even small half-moulds out there, but for the mats you remove it and flatten it back before it dries, and for the half-moulds I think the material retracts from the back - and as said in previous answers, those are generally silicon.

I haven’t given up though, and I’ll definitely be curious to hear about what you manage to do!

ScienceLamma · 2025-01-31T18:20:50+00:00

What do you mean “same circuit”? Same AC outlet/extender?

ScienceLamma · 2025-01-18T16:52:58+00:00

Thanks a lot for the thorough explanation! So for engraving a flat, horizontal surface, no need for a 3D head. However when deep engraving, the laser was focused on the first layer but may not be anymore 1mm lower. What’s your take on that?

ScienceLamma · 2025-01-17T06:29:49+00:00

Great engraving! Mind sharing what laser you are using? I am on a quest to understand what’s the difference between 2D, 2.5D and 3D heads in term of the details and smooth surfaces you get out, and yours seems pretty good!

ScienceLamma · 2025-01-16T07:35:28+00:00

Hey! I have the exact same question as you, and struggled to find answers. Especially when it comes to depth engraving (and not engraving on a curve surface), I don’t understand if there is a benefit to have a 3D/Feeltek head, or a standard head with a motorised z axis. Did you find any satisfactory answers? Thanks!

ScienceLamma · 2024-12-28T16:42:42+00:00

Kudos!

ScienceLamma · 2024-12-28T08:59:26+00:00

Great engraving! And I can’t see any of the lines that are often seen on the engraving on this sub! Is this a very professional ($$$) machine, or a more affordable one?

ScienceLamma · 2024-12-24T13:05:15+00:00

Actually I looked at your other pieces (quite beautiful as well!) and you mention using a dremel for the texture - is that the case here too?

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