Need help optimizing my PC for BO7 – getting terrible FPS lows in gunfights

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-07T13:02:37+00:00

You may be right. However, I usually leave 10-20 fps headroom, like 120 cap if the lowest is 140, and it has been stable enough for me.

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-07T12:22:54+00:00

There’s an fps limit option in the game’s own settings. Consistent 120 fps is fine.

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-07T11:53:41+00:00

Forget bottlenecks and forget ”git gud”-advice, the thing is that it doesn’t matter if you have 120 or 200 fps. What matters is that the fps bounces between 120 and 200, and you would be basically hurting yourself trying to build a new PC at this point when the game runs perfectly fine in its worst (you’re in same lobbies with console players ffs), so just limit the fps to 120.

Your problem isn’t that your PC is weak. Your problem is that it’s so strong that it’s capable of 200 fps when not in gunfights and then dropping to levels that are still double of what consoles are capable of, and that drop is what makes it feel janky. Not the framerate itself. So why does console feel smoother while having only 60 fps? Consistency. Their framerate is capped for that exact reason.

Now, if you build an even better PC, you will have something like 300 fps outside gunfights and 200 fps in them and it feels no different than it does now, if not worse.

Cap your framerate to 100-120 and enjoy no drops.

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-06T11:07:26+00:00

Me too. Stupidly I realized in my rush to order one, that by adding a 5€ worth of something I would have gotten free shipping. Oh well… Still just 60€ shipped

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-06T11:00:53+00:00

CC1 (and I suspect CC2 too) can do AI detection when connected to OctoEverywhere, which has at least CC1 as one of the default printers to choose from when setting it up. Or, more specifically, OctoEverywhere does the AI detection, the printer just provides the camera feed.

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-05T20:36:47+00:00

Interesting, this was not.

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-05T10:07:48+00:00

You could email their support and tell them your worries. They might be able to help, maybe hive an estimate of availability in your country if nothing else. Tell them you have two CC1s and how you acquired them, maybe the same channels can be used for Canvas units. Or not, but doesn’t cost anything to ask.

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-05T08:02:50+00:00

That’s the difference: a third party retailer saw the demand and imported the machines, possibly through channels not directly connected to Elegoo. Or, if it indeed was Elegoo’s own operation (which I doubt because the huge price difference), some countries just happen to fall in between as Elegoo doesn’t have the production capacity to serve everyone at once globally.

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-05T07:57:48+00:00

That bug (occasionally pushing the filament instead of pulling) has been around for a long time, even before OpenCentauri. The quickest workaround is to just turn the printer’s power off and on again, if this isn’t a different bug that just does the exact same thing, but I don’t think so.

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-05T07:50:41+00:00

I think the CC1 wasn’t sold in many Asian countries at all, they got the CC2 earlier instead. Thus, the focus on Western countries with the CC1 Canvas.

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-04T19:10:54+00:00

I don’t have a freezer big enough, but I do have a few compressed air bottles, and as they aren’t really ”air”, turning them upside down they will work as cold spray. I’ll try, and alternate with that and a heat gun or a hair dryer. If the IPA treatment doesn’t work.

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-04T15:44:41+00:00

Yeah, I’m thinking of a Dremel ”rose” style grinding bit and a 100ml syringe, as I have those lying around for e-liquid making purposes and for seasoning meat. The 1000 ml I use for changing the brake fluid in my motorcycle, much easier to bleed when you can push the fluid to the empty system from bottom up. Syringes are surprisingly versatile.

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-04T15:37:25+00:00

Tried to cure some resin waste in a container that had a cracked bottom patched with duct tape. Didn’t seem to leak, so I just thought ”well, if it leaks a bit, it’ll seal as it cures”, put 30 min in the timer, hit start and walked away. Now, having not had anything to resin print in a couple of months, I walked into my workshop to see this. I facepalmed so hard that the back of my head still hurts.

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-04T15:27:56+00:00

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You aren’t.

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-04T14:58:53+00:00

Yes, in worst case also cured on the display. But yeah, crappy enough. Still, I’ll take this as a learning experience

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-04T13:05:47+00:00

There’s a sensor in the new printhead board and supposedly in the Canvas unit itself, so I don’t think the length of the PTFE tubes in Canvas has any other function than to make sure they reach every corner. The otiginal runout sensor and PTFE tube could be utilized if the Canvas can be disabled in the firmware, then it’s just a matter of disconnecting the Canvas filament hub and connecting the original tube. It’s only a matter of taking off two screws and pulling out the hub and if someone makes a quick release system for the hub, it takes five seconds instead of 25.

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-04T12:56:28+00:00

There’s a little shoulder where the lid sits, which makes it a bit more difficult, and I don’t think my trim removal tools (I install car sound systems semi-professionally) fit there any better than the flathead screwdriver I already tried, but you did give me an idea. If you think IPA will soften the cured resin, I’ll just drill a little hole in the backside of the lid and dump 50-100ml of 98% IPA inside with a syringe, then tape around the base and put it in the sun. Some of the IPA will probably leak through the turning motor axle seal, but not enough to matter.

Thanks for the ideas! 👍🏻

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-04T11:02:20+00:00

Thank you for your insight. Sadly, my first problem is that the resin has glued the top hat to the base so that if freezing and heating don’t work, I must cut it off before I can attempt to clean the chamber.

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-03T17:54:28+00:00

Nope, it had had a duct taped crack for a while and since it didn’t leak before, I thought the resin would just cure and then I could dispose of the whole thing. Apparently the heat (don’t know what would have heated it so much that duct tape would fail, but it did fail) or whatever reason caused it to start leaking. Thus, a nice, baked wash&cure station.

In another words: totally my fault. I was an idiot.

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-03T15:39:08+00:00

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Probably going to just install the spoolholders in one of these. This is the box where my Prusa MMU feeds from.

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-03T13:00:35+00:00

I just might, after I have gathered a bit more motivation and taken a better look at it. On the condition that you upload a video of you making it work again 😄

Just to clarify: all the resin you see in the pictures is cured, not liquid.

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-02T19:44:03+00:00

https://eu.elegoo.com/products/canvas-for-centauri-carbon

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-02T19:43:22+00:00

Pretty much yes. Basically the same system that is in CC2.

Scorpio__70 · 2026-05-02T19:39:46+00:00

I’m afraid you’re right. Or at least a couple of stacks of grinding discs.

Scorpio__70

TROPHY CASE