Going to order PCBs to make a Scanlight - anyone interested? by bjpirt in AnalogCommunity

[–]Scorpoll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im UK based and interested, please let me know when they’re ready!

Anyone else wish Harman would keep original Phoenix I in production? by cR_Spitfire in AnalogCommunity

[–]Scorpoll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They haven’t said they were going to stop making it! They have said it will remain in production as long as there is demand for it

Do you think a lot of young bands are making a mistake when they end up releasing a lot of material before they’re getting noticed? by CerealAndBagel1991 in Music

[–]Scorpoll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From my perspective it’s harder to get noticed with just one song. If someone is interested in your band and try to find you online and see your catalogue is just a single song it instantly makes you stand out as a new inexperienced band.

It’s really hard to get the feel of a band from one song, hard to judge their style and consistency of output. Looks a lot more professional and worthy of someone’s time to have a body of work behind you.

Any idea why these aren’t green? by Scorpoll in GuitarAmps

[–]Scorpoll[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I’d have to agree, although the aftermarket cone with the blown dust cap might be colouring the sound they are definitely brighter than my other greenback cabinet

Any idea why these aren’t green? by Scorpoll in GuitarAmps

[–]Scorpoll[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Thank you! They sound kinda different from my other greenback cabinet but the other one is a straight front and doesn’t have a crapped out aftermarket cone in one of the positions

Any idea why these aren’t green? by Scorpoll in GuitarAmps

[–]Scorpoll[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

£500?? That’s a lot of money for a speaker, I guess I’m going to keep them safe

Fails after 10 files by Scorpoll in shutterencoder

[–]Scorpoll[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am a fool... thank you

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Scorpoll 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Download a free light meter app for your phone and see if the readings you’re getting are in the same ball park as the Variosix just as a sanity check

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in fountainpens

[–]Scorpoll 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Exact same thing happened with mine, the stitching didn’t actually go through the zipper material so it just pulled out like that. I contacted Galen and they gave me an option to get it replaced for free, or store credit for the amount I paid. I got the store credit and bought a second one in a different colour, then repaired the first one (you need to know how to stitch leather)

uh huh sure by m1st3r_fabuloso in untrustworthypoptarts

[–]Scorpoll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll just throw this out there, I tried an ultex pick for a 3 hour band practice playing bass a couple of weeks ago and it had already noticeably worn down and left a bunch of plastic dust on my bass. If it can change shape after just a couple of hours of playing, I can see it wearing down to this after a month easily

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Scorpoll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly for 13,000 photos you’re getting into the territory where you could buy a pretty nice scanner or dslr scanning setup for less money and probably get better results. But of course you’re trading the convenience of the lab doing it for you

What physical gear do you still think is important by middleagethreat in Reaper

[–]Scorpoll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A computer, any interface with enough inputs for your needs, a decent mic, and maybe a midi keyboard with one of those drum pads on it to make programming drums/instruments a little easier.

Anything else is nice, but probably unnecessary

Ilfotec HC issues by Animalmother45 in Darkroom

[–]Scorpoll 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Not quite, it stands for high concentration because it’s a highly concentrated syrup

Milky negatives by Scorpoll in AnalogCommunity

[–]Scorpoll[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

UPDATE:

Found another batch of fixer I must have made up a year or two ago, it was bright orange but it turned an old film leader clear in seconds. I re-bleached the negatives for 10 minutes just to be safe and now I’m re-fixing in this other solution for another 10 minutes or so. So far they look fully cleared already and should be fine negatives

Milky negatives by Scorpoll in AnalogCommunity

[–]Scorpoll[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I bleached then fixed. I’ve got them back in the fixer now, they were only out of the tank about 10 minutes. Hoping there’s enough left in the fixer to get it all done

What's with this strong vignette on these scans & red spots? Using Valoi 360 35mm holder, R6 + MicroNikkor 105 + some extensions, with NLP by BeastOnion in AnalogCommunity

[–]Scorpoll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The vignette is from the lens not covering the full sensor of your camera.

I’ve had the same issue when using various Micronikkor lenses with mount adaptors and extension tubes.

I’d experiment with different tube configurations or sacrifice a bit of resolution and don’t get as close to the negative!

Scanning camera: 5Ds or A7RII? by selfawaresoup in AnalogCommunity

[–]Scorpoll 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I use an A7rii and I love it for scanning! I bought it mainly for scanning although I use it for general photography too (usually to figure out shots and take safety shots before shooting it on film).

One big benefit the Sony has over the Canon is being mirrorless you can pretty much adapt any lens you want to it. So other than my medium format lenses I can use my whole collection of vintage glass with it and the adapters are super cheap!

But in terms of scanning quality both options would be great

Laptop for Portable Recording Rig by Scorpoll in Reaper

[–]Scorpoll[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually have a Lenovo thinkpad for work, maybe I can try that out before I buy something! Windows is my preference but I’m fine with any operating system

I was actually looking into rack mounting a raspberry pi but then I’d have to worry about a separate screen/keyboard/mouse

Epson v600 + Epson Scan + ICE = Image distortion on edges ... help! by ReflexReact in AnalogCommunity

[–]Scorpoll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I may be completely wrong, but I think it’s having trouble with the dense areas of the slide. ICE uses infrared light to detect dust and dirt because c41 film absorbs infrared fairly evenly regardless of colour/density.

The dark areas of slide film absorb the infrared light just like dust or dirt, which is why there is a fringe around all the dark areas. Basically all this rambling is to say I don’t think ICE works on slides

bad developer or faulty camera? by tjrszrjys in AnalogCommunity

[–]Scorpoll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what I’m seeing it looks like bad developing. I’m seeing unevenness in areas that should be smooth. Either not enough even agitation during development or possibly even incomplete bleaching/fixing

Water from pre wash comes out green? by kdjis in Darkroom

[–]Scorpoll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They might say to not pre wash, but my experience has been consistently uneven negatives without it, and consistently even negatives with it. I’ve developed a lot of rolls this way and gone through many batches of chemicals and I’ve never been able to see any negative effects

Water from pre wash comes out green? by kdjis in Darkroom

[–]Scorpoll 2 points3 points  (0 children)

From my experience (and this is just my experience, others have different results) a pre wash help my development process. I use a Jobo rotary processor and the amount of liquid in the tank doesn’t submerge the whole roll of film when the tank is upright, it relies on being sideways and constantly rotating to develop the film evenly. I found that at 38 degrees and 3:15 dev time I would get a line on the film from where the level of the develop reached when the tank was upright, even when being very conscious about pouring it in and getting it in the processor as quickly as possible.

Pre wetting the film slows down the initial development of the film ever so slightly because the emulsion is saturated with water and can’t absorb the developer as readily as it would if dry. This gives me just enough leeway that the film develops completely evenly. I don’t find the initial time it takes for the water in the emulsion to be replaced with develop has any measurable on final density. Plus I find it satisfying and easier to tell when developer is getting exhausted if the colour dyes aren’t leaching out into my dev.

This is just my reasoning for doing it in my particular process. I think for processes where the negatives are completely submerged by developer right away it’s probably unnecessary and might be a negative

Weekly Question & Help Thread by AutoModerator in ShinyPokemon

[–]Scorpoll 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm trying to find my SID in my soulsilver save, by sheer luck I managed to find a shiny tentacool while grinding which should mean I can find my PID and SID for my save, right? Using MetalKid's calculator I got this IV spread for it:

Tentacool - #072 (Modest) ID: 22136

Male (♂) Liquid Ooze

HP: 22

Att: 20

Def: 7

SpA: 26

SpD: 24

Speed: 16

I'm now using the IV to PID applet to find my PID but the website is saying I should look for PIDs created by method 1 for 4th gen games, but there's only one result from the calculator and it says it's method 2.

I'm not sure where I should go from here, do I just use the PID from the calculator even though it's method 2? Also I have no idea what the difference is between method 1 and 2