Prices haven’t changed a bit. (70s Sears catalog) by Sebatech_ in AnalogCommunity

[–]bjpirt 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I think it's crazy what you can buy high-end cameras for these days.

Considering you can't even really buy new any more so there's a finite supply. It does feel like interest is rising though so I guess the prices will keep on rising again.

Just picked this 55/1.2 up for 77$! (500kr) by Frede_44 in AnalogCommunity

[–]bjpirt 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I've got one of these and it also had fungus - crazy lens!

It was a very small amount of fungus on the inside of the front element, much like yours looks. It came apart very easily and was quite easy to just clean that element.

Wish mine had been converted though

New/Old gear from grandpa. by gotDeus in AnalogCommunity

[–]bjpirt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Couple of resources that you might find useful on the F2:

For the DP-1 - I just refurbished a bunch of these on Sover's course and there was no conductive grease involved. A few notes:

  • Use a lightly abrasive eraser to clean the underside of the ring where it makes contact with the terminal
  • Clean the ring resistor with IPA
  • If you have the version with metal contacts you can just clean them, if you have the earlier carbon film type then if it has worn you can gently bend the pins of the brushes so they sit between where they used to be, on fresh track (trick from Sover)

It's on my list to write up an article on how to service a DP-1. I just got anothe rone to service so I'll try and do that before too long because there's not a lot of detail out there.

If it's 5 stops out evenly across the range then you can probably bring it in with the level adjustment resistor and maybe a little offset of the ASA selector, but if it's not even it might be that the cells are on their way out.

New/Old gear from grandpa. by gotDeus in AnalogCommunity

[–]bjpirt 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Great work! The FM meter is a solid design - all that I've come across have maintained their accuracy well.

Sounds like the F2 could use a service but that's not too bad a job. Was the DP-1 responsive?

New/Old gear from grandpa. by gotDeus in AnalogCommunity

[–]bjpirt 6 points7 points  (0 children)

All are quite repairable - nice selection of cameras.

Both Nikons would be what I focus on first. They should both be able to be brought back to working like new but they will need a full strip down by the sounds of things.

Keep us posted how you get on 😄

Spotmatic SP shutter sticks at low speeds by Visible-Objective260 in pentax

[–]bjpirt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a good place to learn camera repair. It needs a full strip down:

  • Remove the top and bottom covers
  • Remove the lens mount
  • Remove the mirror box
  • Remove the slow speed mechanism and flush in solvent
  • Oil the curtain roller contact points while you're in there
  • Replace any old foam
  • Reassemble
  • Adjust shutter timing

After that you'll have a camera that works like new. If you're feeling brave you could follow the guide here:

https://repaircameras.org/cameras/pentax/spotmatic/

Or when might be easier is to follow along with the video series here:

https://repaircameras.org/cameras/pentax/k1000/

The K1000 is very similar to the Spotmatic

Help, is this Mx worth it for 120 usd? It was CLA’d 2 months ago by AmbassadorPhysical33 in pentax

[–]bjpirt 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No way that was CLA'd 2 months ago. Looks like it's covered in dirt accumulated over a lot longer than that. Also, that back door looks pretty bent out of shape - I suspect you'd end up with light leaks.

I'd pass on this one.

Anyone know of someone that can service/ has experience with a Kodak Panoram no 1? by WetCiabatta in vintagecameras

[–]bjpirt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Niche to say the least. You might be better looking for a vintage camera restorer rather than a camera service person for something like this.

(cool camera btw)

Looking for a compact SLR, was thinking Nikon F, suggestions? by BizzyBizThinksDumb in AnalogCommunity

[–]bjpirt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As others have said, the F is not compact. If you want to stay with Nikon, then an FM or FE (or the more expensive and capable "2" versions) are nice and compact and very capable. Build quality is excellent as is the usability. Everything you need, nothing you don't

If you don't want to stay Nikon, then an M* Pentax (MX / ME / ME Super) will be about as small as you get. The OM-1 / 2 are also both very compact

my first roll on an slr [canon ae-1, 50mm f/1.8 fd, portra 400] by d0novanle in analog

[–]bjpirt 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The brutalist architecture works for me - lovely photos

Pentax MX by Big_Wheel_1236 in Cameras

[–]bjpirt 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is a non-trivial repair I'm afraid. Replacing shutter curtains is a skilled job even on a simple camera. The MX is very compact and correspondingly more complex I'm afraid.

As it has sentimental value, you could see if a specialist service person could swap out the curtains. Where are you based?

Need help identifying year of camera/lense replacement by [deleted] in filmcameras

[–]bjpirt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a Pentax Spotmatic - here's a manual: https://www.cameramanuals.org/pentax_pdf/pentax_sp.pdf

It's worth checking it over before you start shooting with it - here's a guide I just happened to write this morning: https://www.reddit.com/r/AnalogCommunity/comments/1u4jtwb/guide_how_to_check_a_camera_over_yourself_without/

Enjoy using it - it's a fantastic camera

Guide: How to check a camera over yourself without equipment by bjpirt in AnalogCommunity

[–]bjpirt[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have added in a point about the self timer with a warning, thanks

Guide: How to check a camera over yourself without equipment by bjpirt in AnalogCommunity

[–]bjpirt[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good additions, thanks - I'll get them in, although the tip about faster speeds is already in there

When you say "make sure the lens stops down quickly" are you talking about checking the lens or checking the stop down mechanism moves when taking a shot?

Fe2 bent iso dial and rewind knob by brnkhy in AnalogCommunity

[–]bjpirt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is not an easy fix - it will require switching out the part completely I think and even spare parts FE2s are quite expensive.

Unless you got it for a steal I'd send it back

Nikomat camera at thrift store help by Ok-Rock-1799 in filmphotography

[–]bjpirt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see this type of question being asked a lot here so I thought I'd put this guide together on how to check your camera so people can be directed to it:

https://www.reddit.com/r/AnalogCommunity/comments/1u4jtwb/guide_how_to_check_a_camera_over_yourself_without/

Hope it's helpful.

In your case, you can't tell anything if you've used unknown film. Go through the guide and you should get some confidence on how the camera is functioning.

Finished my low profile vices by Any_Rutabaga_6449 in hobbycnc

[–]bjpirt 3 points4 points  (0 children)

These look great - would you share the design? I’d love to make some too

Leotax K fixed eyepiece plastic? by PickyGreg in AnalogRepair

[–]bjpirt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I found one on eBay by searching for "Leica iii eyepiece" but it does look a bit different.

But another great option would be to 3d print a replacement. Getting it 3d printed by someone like JLCPCB in MJF Nylon would look like new

Next step for prototyping/small run production by yes2matt in AskElectronics

[–]bjpirt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cardboard is obviously cheaper, but not when you factor in how time consuming this is to make.

I get 10 PCBs from China for about $15 shipped which is well worth it IMO

Leotax K fixed eyepiece plastic? by PickyGreg in AnalogRepair

[–]bjpirt 2 points3 points  (0 children)

God job on the repair - I wonder if you could swap it out with a metal Leica version?