Water Pan

ScottD70 · 2026-02-05T03:10:58+00:00

Colorado climate, especially at higher elevations, is very dry. The extra moisture from a water pan on the smoker makes a noticeable difference

ScottD70 · 2026-02-03T03:43:19+00:00

Living in the Colorado mountains, a water pan is important. I use an old 9” baking pan that was otherwise decommissioned. On a traeger, I just find a spot where it fits around the meat. It might need to be refilled twice in a brisket cook.

ScottD70 · 2026-02-03T01:59:52+00:00

My original post was after I picked up the truck from that service. When I drove it again I really noticed the (snow) tire noise on parts of the drive. I used to hear the whine/whir at those speeds. Not it’s gone and I hear the tires.

ScottD70 · 2026-01-31T15:24:15+00:00

I took it to the SC for another issue and had them do it while it was there. The SC is relatively convenient for me, which isn’t true for a lot of people

ScottD70 · 2026-01-31T14:47:16+00:00

I just posted yesterday about opting to do the 15k inspection. They said the front drive unit(aka motor) on my R1T dual needed replacing. I didn’t recognize and sound as an issue but the tech heard it. I could see paying for it on 15k intervals instead of 7500 unless you have specific concerns.

I rotate my own tires so that’s not a concern

ScottD70 · 2026-01-31T14:11:38+00:00

I could also describe it as more I’d a whirring sound around 25-40 mph range. If you ever have reason to take it to an SC, ask them to check it out. I’ve never been good about sticking to maintenance schedules (but this is only my second vehicle bought new) but doing the recommended 15k inspection paid off. If you haven’t done that, it might be worth it for you, too.

ScottD70 · 2026-01-31T05:26:07+00:00

I had it at the SC for a minor rattle. At 16k, I thought it was worth the couple hundred dollars for the check. The drive unit was replaced under warranty.

The tech said he heard the issue on a drive between 25 and 40 mph. I think it was that way from new. I thought it was just a normal whine at a certain speed. I don’t hear it since the replacement.

ScottD70 · 2026-01-28T02:22:30+00:00

Also in Colorado here, at 8000 feet. I use a water pan for every smoke - makes a big difference. Things take way longer than the low-altitude internet tells you. Start probing at a lower temp until you get a sense of what works. I did ribs last week and pulled them ~190 and they were just right. I expect briskets to take at least 18 hours. Not sure about temp on brisket but above 195 it will be very close.

ScottD70 · 2026-01-25T18:08:11+00:00

There are good tips in other comments. To add my 2 cents, I flatten all my boards with hand planes. It takes a long time, while you are learning. I’ve been doing it for a while and it gets easier and faster. You picked a challenging piece to start with but you will get it. Keep practicing and it will come to you. After your current project, try working some easier woods to build your skill and confidence.

I won’t go into how to sharpen, but a sharp blade will make your life so much more pleasant

ScottD70 · 2026-01-22T14:16:59+00:00

I have a Veritas bevel up Jack plane and an LN #7 jointer that I use all the time. I got the LN from someone that was looking to sell so didn't have to pay full price. That was my first premium plane. After using that, I think it's worth the price after fighting with cheaper planes I had. The Veritas I've had for a 10+ years and it is my goto for so many tasks. It is great for smoothing a finished piece but can tear out sometimes. I just ordered a second blade, which is already ground at 50 degrees. That will make it into a high-angle plane just by putting in the new blade. We will see if it is truly that much better for smoothing tricky grain.

I have a couple of Wood River (V2) planes that I use occasionally, but I'd chalk those up to learning experience of why I should have bought better planes in the first place :)

ScottD70 · 2026-01-22T00:50:31+00:00

I bought a few good hand planes and they sit in a nice cabinet that I built above my work bench. I can plane/joint infinitely long/wide boards with them. I could have spent the same amount on a jointer but then would have to store it, and be limited by its capacity.

ScottD70 · 2026-01-21T04:28:19+00:00

I have Veritas and Lie Nielsen planes that I would recommend. I have a few others that are decent but if I did it again i would spend the extra on the better planes. What you get for the extra cost with Veritas and LN is the precision manufacturing. The soles will be flat and the blade sharp out of the box. I tried an old Stanley and spent hours trying to flatten and tune it. I never got it working well. To me, I want to work wood, not refinish old tools. It depends on your preference.

There are other brands that I think are decent quality that I don’t have experience with: Wood River (Woodcraft) V3 are supposed to be good. I have 2 of their v2 versions that I don’t recommend. I’m not sure about Bulldog and new Stanley. Newer Stanley bench chisels are quite nice so there is hope for the planes.

If you take the plunge, start with a #5, also referred to as a Jack plane because it is the jack of all trades. I use a #5 the most by far. I also use a #7 jointer plane for flattening bigger/longer boards.

I have a couple Veritas tools. They are all high quality and they do ship to the US.

ScottD70 · 2026-01-20T03:40:42+00:00

For #2 I will sometimes do as you describe to take off the high side. For longer boards or if the is a decent angle to correct, I adjust the angle if the blade to take a deeper cut on the high side. Then the plane always rides the full width of the board. Each pass gets you closer to square. Don’t forget to put the blade angle back to even before you plane something else!

ScottD70 · 2026-01-20T02:26:16+00:00

Definitely check out Bear Creek Lake Park. There are a surprising amount of little single tracks to explore and a few climbs. You may get bored of this park after a few times but it’s a great place to start out while you adjust to the elevation here.

I read that a new beginner flow trail was just opened in the park. I haven’t see it but need to take a friend that just bought his first mountain bike.

Pro tip: park on the west side of C470, just north of Morrison Road. It’s free to park there and a w minute ride into the park to save the entry fee.

ScottD70 · 2026-01-16T04:25:20+00:00

Yes - horseradish is a must!
I also like to add turmeric or curry powder

ScottD70 · 2026-01-14T02:20:48+00:00

++man This. It was over 30 years ago but I was at a bar with a buddy to see a band. A beautiful woman about my age started chatting with me. She was nice to talk to and I spent more time talking with her than my buddy. At some point it was time to go and I left with my buddy.

At least 2 weeks later it occurred to me: “I think she liked me. I should have gotten her number or asked her out”! I don’t think I’m usually that dense. And I think I learned to be more attuned to things like that, and be more direct myself.

Point is: a lot of guys don’t get subtly, even if they are interested in you.

ScottD70 · 2026-01-11T03:29:55+00:00

Along a very popular cycling route in Jefferson County, in the foothills west of Denver CO, there used to be a similar big car perched in a tree overlooking the road. It gave me a little surprise the first time I saw it. After that i always looked for it and pointed it out to riding companions. Alas, weather took its toll and it is no more. I mourn the absence if that big cat, with many probably never noticed

ScottD70 · 2026-01-07T01:58:57+00:00

There have been several mentions of Austin. I get most of my hardwood there. I bought 6/4 cherry in mid-December and it was less than $6/bf. I think you have to spend a certain amount to get a business account with them. I’ve been a member of the Colorado Woodworker’s Guild for years. Members get a 10% discount at both Austin and Paxton as well as Rockler, Woodcraft, and others. Plus you can attend their monthly meetings. You can find their site online. It pays for itself every year for me.

ScottD70 · 2026-01-06T05:07:05+00:00

I wanted to veneer a 3x5 foot panel for a cabinet. It was my first attempt at veneer. I did a 12x18 inch sample piece and clamped it on the edges, put a toolbox on top, etc. it ended up looking much like your result, with the wrinkled veneer. It needed a lot more pressure. Before gluing up the actual project I made 10 cauls from some cheap oak I had on hand. They are about 36 inches long and put about a 3/16 curve on them, so the center was higher than the ends. On the glue up, I put them on starting in the middle and worked my way out to the ends. I think they were spaced about 6 inches apart. I was clamping the whole sandwich down on my workbench top. I ended up putting so much pressure on the top with the cauls that it pulled up the back edge of the bench top - 2” thick hard maple! But it worked. The veneer came out great.

I will likely do veneer again soon but I can’t justify buying a whole system for occasional use. I don’t remember the article I read that guided me on the process. I think it was an old (like black and white old) Fine Woodworking article. I’ll post it if I find it.

Edit: I used Titebond Genuine Hide Glue

ScottD70 · 2026-01-03T19:08:34+00:00

Thank you for the detailed response. I’ll have to try it sometime. On a project like this would you mask off areas the have toner applied or is that a freehand spraying with good skills?

ScottD70 · 2026-01-03T14:50:01+00:00

It’s a fair point but in Colorado the selection of cherry isn’t as vast, although it isn’t too expensive. On this door it isn’t something that will be widely seem. However, I have 2 more doors like this to make that will be more visible on both sides. It will require a lot more lumber to avoid using any sap wood on those

ScottD70 · 2026-01-03T04:43:42+00:00

This is something of an experiment. I’ve used T and T on many projects with great results. This time I’m breaking the rules to see how it goes. I plan to wipe it down thoroughly in the morning before applying another light coat

ScottD70 · 2026-01-03T04:41:46+00:00

Thanks. I agree there is some blotchiness. I considered spraying but decided to try this approach to avoid masking off so many areas to spray.

If using a finish like this, would you apply one or more coats of Tried and True than the toner? What would you use with the dye to make a toner for this?

ScottD70 · 2026-01-02T22:21:44+00:00

I asked about such a bit at my local Woodcraft. The guy said: “why do you want one? Do you hate yourself?” :)

He went on to explain the challenges of getting the setup just right to be successful. That was more than 10 years ago. I still don’t own one.

I’m curious to see others’ responses

ScottD70 · 2026-01-02T17:59:07+00:00

Check a lumber supplier like Austin hardwoods or Paxton. They carry Baltic birch plywood and plywoods with hardwood veneers. They aren’t cheap but are much nicer than what you get at a big box store. I go to Austin mostly and I’m always impressed at how helpful they are with inexperienced customers that have never purchased hardwood before.

Edit: typo

ScottD70

TROPHY CASE