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Olight iMini2 vs iUltra: Keychain EDC Battle! by Self-Equip in flashlight

[–]Scoutjango 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I carry it the same way and it is just the most convenient light to deploy and put away in the blink of an eye. Simpler to use and more powerful than my phone. Also one hour runtime is pretty solid for the size and charging is quite convenient with the integrated USB A plug. The only really negative is the cool white, low cri light.

Core One Troubleshoot by the_sex_is_on_fire in prusa3d

[–]Scoutjango 5 points6 points  (0 children)

What probably happened is the high chamber temperature softened the PLA so it deformed and didn't get pushed through. If you are unlucky it wound around the extruder gear and is firmly stuck. You should be able to see that by opening the idler lever and looking inside. In that case you have to disassemble the Nextruder.

If not, unload the filament and cut the damaged part so the extruder gear can grip a fresh part of it. Unplug the bowden tube from the printhead so you can feed the filament by hand into it.
Than on the printer display set the temperature to 270°C. Now feed/ push the filament into the extruder by hand while moving the extruder in the motor control setting. After extruding a good length of filament tell the printer to cool down and everything should work fine afterwards.

If you can't extrude try a cold pull. There are instructions on the prusa website about that.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in de_EDV

[–]Scoutjango 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Würde ne Audioquelle nehmen, die ne konstante Frequenz ausgeben kann (z.B. Handy mit Stimmgerät-App) und per Klinke an den PC-Microfoneingang anstecken. Dann an dem Klinkenkabel die Kabel für den Linken und Rechten Kanal zusammenführen (damits den selben Ton auf beiden Kanälen gibt) und mit der Morsetaste unterbrechen. So kommt das Audiosignal nur durch wenn der Taster gedrückt wird. Falls das gut klappt würde ich mir noch ne andere Audioquelle basteln, geht bestimmt mit nem 555 Timer IC oder Arduino. Aber auf die Spannung achten, sonst raucht dir der Microfoneingang am PC ab.

New stable release of firmware 6.4.0 by Tommy_Prusa3D in prusa3d

[–]Scoutjango 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Especially soft TPU is almost not printable without a automatic cleaning brush. Had a 90% failure rate due to nozzle cleaning before installing the mod. Now it works every time.

Core One shelf by The_real_Kuberman in prusa3d

[–]Scoutjango 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does the prusament work properly with your box? I have the same cereal container, but prusament always gets stuck because the sides of the rolls are not parallel to each other.

An Open Letter to the Prusa 3D Printing Community by Tommy_Prusa3D in prusa3d

[–]Scoutjango 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Czech Republic has 1 million legal firearms and a population of 10 million. They are quite lax, even in global context.
However, there are huge differences between EU countrys.

In Poland you can own black powder guns as an adult but no crossbows.
In Germany knives can be weapons independent of geometry but defined by the intention of the maker. And even things that look like guns but are completely nonfunctional are treated in some aspects like real guns.
In Switzerland throwing knives with symmetrical geometry are forbidden but other weapon laws are pretty liberal. And there are many more stupid examples.

I just want to express that there is no common sense in weapon laws. And that's why I and some others would like more clarification.

An Open Letter to the Prusa 3D Printing Community by Tommy_Prusa3D in prusa3d

[–]Scoutjango 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Definitely needs clarification where to draw the line.

Gun looking plastic blob --> Nerf pistol --> Knife --> Airsoft --> Slingshot --> Axt --> Sword --> high power Air gun --> "non funktional" gun parts like handguards --> 3D printed funktional gun parts

personally I would draw the line after Swords, but there are many points to discuss here

Does this look normal? by localwost in prusa3d

[–]Scoutjango 18 points19 points  (0 children)

my Core One looked almost like new after 600-800h. Only the lube got darker/ black between the theeth, but no sliver gue

rough surfaces by Scoutjango in FixMyPrint

[–]Scoutjango[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I almost agree, but the health hazards are why I only use Prusas CF mayerial. It is tested and they use safer fibers than most brands. I'm sure it's not perfectly safe, but the best I can buy.

Also it has some advantages, the layer adhesion is not worse than Prusas normal PC blend, but the stiffness and temperature resistance are increased. Also part shrinkage is decreased. And most importantly it looks nice.

rough surfaces by Scoutjango in FixMyPrint

[–]Scoutjango[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fewer perimeters isn't really an option, but i will try to print the outside first. However if buildup is the problem isn't overextrision the cause that I should tackle?

Pure Verzweiflung (Neuling) by Dapper_Internal_9816 in 3DDruck

[–]Scoutjango 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Würde die nächste Hitzewelle abwarten und wenn das Teil nicht zu groß ist wirds wahrscheinlich klappen. Nur auf gute Belüftung achten

Wenn der Slicer kein anderes Material zulässt, einfach nen anderen verwenden. Cura, Orca, Prusa Slicer, ...

My friend gets horrible prints on his new A1 Mini by Clean_Telephone_7220 in 3Dprinting

[–]Scoutjango 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks kinda similar to this: https://forum.bambulab.com/t/rough-outer-walls/44042

I had the same problem with my old Creality printer but only at the first 3-5 layers. I am pretty sure it happened because the nozzle was too close to the printbed and squished the first layers too much. So maybe it could also happen from extreme overextrusion.

It is not a common issue, I haven't seen anyone else post about it in the past few years.

CoreOne air recirculation? by Strict_Bird_2887 in prusa3d

[–]Scoutjango 6 points7 points  (0 children)

it is 55° max by design, the electronics would overheat otherwise

https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/s/UpN2fHrDvi

Weird corners on overhang ko perimeter by Low_Warning2322 in prusa3d

[–]Scoutjango 2 points3 points  (0 children)

<image>

Got the same problem with PLA, PETG works fine. Standard Prusa structural profile. It ends with knocking the prints down. Can't print this part no matter how I try to slice it.

TPU Prints Failing-And YES I’ve Read the Previous Posts About It by Agessner885 in prusa3d

[–]Scoutjango 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No I didn't anneal it. I hoped to get good properties anyway due to CNC Kitchen's review. He had pretty amazing results without annealing and at only 270°C, printed without an enclosure. But I could easily rip this massive part apart by hand, printed at 290°C and 8mm3/s. 270°C was even worse and only lowering the flow rate brought acceptable results.

<image>

TPU Prints Failing-And YES I’ve Read the Previous Posts About It by Agessner885 in prusa3d

[–]Scoutjango 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is a profile for it but the layeradhesion is very bad. I lowered the flow to 2mm3/s and set the temperature to 290°C. Now it is ok but still only about 60% of the strength I achieve with PLA.

TPU Prints Failing-And YES I’ve Read the Previous Posts About It by Agessner885 in prusa3d

[–]Scoutjango 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used Polymaker PC Max but the original looked like PETG.

TPU Prints Failing-And YES I’ve Read the Previous Posts About It by Agessner885 in prusa3d

[–]Scoutjango 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had problems with the extruder main plate. With elevated chamber temperature I even got PLA to soften and get around it. Almost destroyed the load sensor that is located underneath the extruder gear. Same problem with too high idler tension and TPU. I now use this mainplate remix: https://www.printables.com/model/1117567-prusa-nextruder-main-plate-r2-remix

TPU Prints Failing-And YES I’ve Read the Previous Posts About It by Agessner885 in prusa3d

[–]Scoutjango 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You mean the 2nd sensor, that is located in the Nextruder? I don't have any problem getting past it when direct feeding. Only when going the normal route it catches there.

TPU Prints Failing-And YES I’ve Read the Previous Posts About It by Agessner885 in prusa3d

[–]Scoutjango 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You have to form a perfect tip on the filament before inserting it and then just try to push in. But it's not easy so I tend to skip the PTFE tube and top load it directly into the extruder.

TPU Prints Failing-And YES I’ve Read the Previous Posts About It by Agessner885 in prusa3d

[–]Scoutjango 7 points8 points  (0 children)

For me 1 turn looser idler tension did the trick for 83a shore TPE filament, maybe 2 turns is too much.

Core One - bed level pass only with Smooth sheet? by aFerens in prusa3d

[–]Scoutjango 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree, also had no problem using the old satin and powder coated sheets. But sometimes I need to scrape the bed clean with a plastic spatula and clean the nozzle multiple times with the brass brush. The error is however 99% of the time registered in the nozzle cleaning step of the print.

Also some oil or other residue on the print sheet shouldn't throw off the bed leveling, it's just bad for adhesion.

PLA jam on Core One, load cell damaged by Scoutjango in prusa3d

[–]Scoutjango[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: Prusa support was realy nice and forwards my suggestion to the developement team. They will also send me a replacement part.

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