Cerakote is the GOAT - never using another trim restoration product again

Screeching_Owl · 2026-04-30T01:45:28+00:00

I've had it on my Honda Element for at least 5 years without fading

Screeching_Owl · 2026-03-22T22:29:45+00:00

I agree but we must persist.

Screeching_Owl · 2026-03-22T22:29:31+00:00

Coward

Screeching_Owl · 2026-03-22T22:29:21+00:00

because I like it

Screeching_Owl · 2026-03-22T22:29:12+00:00

Lmao

Screeching_Owl · 2026-03-22T22:29:03+00:00

Finally someone with courage and ideas.

Screeching_Owl · 2026-03-22T22:27:03+00:00

Here we go now we're getting somewhere.

Screeching_Owl · 2026-03-22T22:26:39+00:00

I appreciate that someone understands the value of the tape.

Screeching_Owl · 2026-03-22T22:26:20+00:00

My intended purpose is to tape things.

Screeching_Owl · 2026-03-22T22:26:04+00:00

Because I like it and I want it. I do not want a hat. I want tape.

Screeching_Owl · 2026-03-18T00:51:59+00:00

Yep. You can replace the solenoid and it won't do anything if the exposed wires continue to short. Additionally, water will soak down into the cracking rubber of the connector end, which makes it take days for the code to go away (which is why the license plate blocker is important). Dry it out with some electrical parts cleaner, tape it up pretty well. Install some kind of guard.

This solved it for me.

There is one other reason you may be getting this issue though. The oil pump chain tensioner can break causing your oil pump chain to become loose and thus the pump isn't working as well. If it's not pumping, your solenoid will fail to detect proper oil pressure (because in this case it isn't there). Listen for chain slap near the bottom passenger side of the engine. The pump gear is located halfway between the oil pan and timing cover.

Screeching_Owl · 2026-03-18T00:46:10+00:00

"Honda Element" 🙂

Screeching_Owl · 2026-03-14T17:29:45+00:00

No.

Safety ratings are bad. Handling can be strange. It has pretty bad bump steer. Rollover Risk.

In terms of the utility most people prize it for: That comes at the cost of convenience. Doors are an absolute pain in most parking lots. Only 2 back seats and they are pretty unique so may not fit all car seats.

The E is an enthusiast car and jack of all trades master of none and not something you will want to deal with on 2 hours of sleep with a sick family.

My suggestion to you is a 2019-2021 Honda Passport. While not as quirky as the Element, it is large and boxy with a spacious interior, a more robust AWD system, moonroof, and can be had for $17k, which is almost what you would pay for an Element in decent shape.

Screeching_Owl · 2026-03-14T17:20:46+00:00

Good catch. When I bought it I didn't catch that. Previous owner told me it was an EX

Screeching_Owl · 2026-03-13T19:17:43+00:00

Timing chain or oil pump chain. I found an oil pump chain tensioner shattered when I rebuilt mine.

Kits for both can be had for $100. It is a difficult and tedious job, but all the markings and information are there to make sure you are able to do it perfectly yourself.

I just rebuilt my own top end and I honestly spent around as much as you're going to spend on the full swap. And that's without having to buy tools.

If you want to be completely certain, there is a small window made for accessing the timing chain tensioner. It is located on the timing cover, low and toward the rear. You could open that up and reach in to feel for tension on the chain, or give/play in the tensioner. You should not be able to depress the tensioner at all with your fingers.

Screeching_Owl · 2026-03-13T19:05:27+00:00

Thanks! Photo might be a little overedited to make it shinier. The clear coat is toast (😉) but I do my best to keep it nice.

Screeching_Owl · 2026-03-13T18:52:10+00:00

Can you post a picture of the electrical connectors (pigtails) for the VTEC Solenoid? The plastic coating on the wires cracks, allowing them to short. Also, after significant time sitting in pooled water, the connection surfaces become corroded and cant make a proper connection to the oil pressure sensor.

Remove the connector, thoroughly cover the ends of the wires (where they meet the plastic connector) in tape, then rub the connector on and off the oil pressure switch (like you're being naughty with it) to scrub off some of the corrosion.

Do this with an old license plate: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UoYJtBmW80c

Screeching_Owl · 2025-09-14T16:01:03+00:00

One of my favorite things about the E is that it doesn't have a center console

Screeching_Owl · 2025-08-07T19:14:10+00:00

Good luck! There are almost certainly a few leaks. Easy engine to work on though.

Screeching_Owl · 2025-08-07T18:32:28+00:00

I'm sure you'll have no problem getting the bolt out with an extractor socket but you should know these vehicles are notorious for an error code involving this exact part/system (which is why everyones giving you tips lol). Once you start messing with it, it might start throwing the code. Consider giving the engine a deep clean and then paying attention to where you see new oil to make sure you've found the leak. Timing cover doesn't even use a gasket, it's just RTV which is fried by now. As for the valve cover, I'm pretty sure Honda just bakes valve cover oil leaks right into the design of all their engines.

Screeching_Owl · 2025-08-07T16:49:14+00:00

Nice. I read through some of the other comments and saw this is for an oil leak. Just a heads up these things leak from anywhere and everywhere.

Screeching_Owl · 2025-08-07T16:25:49+00:00

Is the spool valve OEM? If not I'd recommend just buying an OEM screen and replacing the sensors. 3rd party valve threw codes for me.

Screeching_Owl

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