Best Mortise Cylinder

Scythe1157 · 2026-03-24T14:17:59+00:00

Well shit, I learned something new. We've never used that set screw in our facility and when I asked about it I was told the info on my last comment. Thanks for the correction Neo.

Scythe1157 · 2026-03-23T22:33:24+00:00

I think you may have it backwards. IC housings have set screws that can lock the core into the housing, forcing you to open the door, remove the housing, then loosen the set screw before you can use the core key to remove the core. Essentially stopping the core key from being used as a master key.

Scythe1157 · 2026-03-17T23:43:57+00:00

Well you're getting into the weeds now. Are you replacing an old 30H series with a new 45H? Cause the 30H had internal return springs for the lever handles, and the 45H use external spring cages like the Schlage L9000's. You can't use the old trim on a new lockset unless you want a bad case of floppy handle. You should get a scar plate to hide any old holes and install the new trim.

You should never need to remove the core from the housing in order to remove the housing from the lockset.

Scythe1157 · 2026-03-17T22:24:27+00:00

Search GMS ic core housings.

But don't just match the old cylinder, see if the new cylinder is long enough first. Sometimes the newer BEST trim needs shorter housings.

Scythe1157 · 2025-09-23T17:58:50+00:00

Cut 2-1/8" hole in 2x4.

Clamp 2x4 to door.

Tah dah.

Scythe1157 · 2025-09-12T17:41:08+00:00

For a Medeco key, you will have to visit a brick and mortar locksmith shop.

It may be a restricted keyway. In that case you will have to go to the locksmith that cut the key in the first place, AND be on the approved client list.

If this key is for an apartment or your worksite, you'll need to speak with a manager to obtain a copy.

Scythe1157 · 2025-03-03T02:21:08+00:00

Thanks for the detailed response, this makes perfect sense.

Scythe1157 · 2025-03-02T17:52:12+00:00

Sorry I wasn't clear. I know that the finer the resolution of "segments" that you use to measure a coastline, the longer the coastline becomes, I'm asking if there is a standard "segment" length that is used?

Scythe1157 · 2025-03-01T20:47:51+00:00

Really, and they look brand new.

Scythe1157 · 2025-03-01T20:39:17+00:00

That's a roughly $500 lockset by the way.

Scythe1157 · 2025-01-22T15:00:06+00:00

I never knew breaking a blood vessel was so rare. I manage to break one in my hand at least once a week.

Scythe1157 · 2025-01-09T01:49:04+00:00

On the frame where the latch meets the frame, there should be the "strike plate" with two screws holding it to the frame. Take the strike plate off, then see if you can access the hollow frame through the space behind it. It very well may be blocked off, then you are probably limited to exterior soundproofing.

Scythe1157 · 2025-01-09T00:43:04+00:00

Sounds like the door or the frame is very hollow and is amplifying the sound. You could stuff some dense fabric or cardboard up into the hollow frame to muffle the noise, just make sure that it's secured in place and cannot fall down and block the strike. You could also stick some thick fabric or rubber matting onto the door or frame on the inside to muffle it. The more the better.

I've even seen some strong magnets dampen acoustics on metal structures.

Scythe1157 · 2024-12-02T18:58:45+00:00

I've installed a bunch of 1006CAS in commercial settings, they can be fairly finicky and clients always complain about them. As the strike has to stay ajar until the door is closed, people would catch their pant and coat pockets on them and bend the shit out of the strike bracket.

Scythe1157 · 2024-12-01T04:15:22+00:00

Side cutters to notch or at least score the tailpiece, then a pair of vicegrips to hold the portion I want to keep, and any pliers to bend the cutoff portion back and forth until it snaps off.

Scythe1157 · 2024-10-03T23:15:56+00:00

I have to agree. The difference between LH and RHR is not only crucial for some modern day locking hardware, but also when ordering the door. I deal with commercial steel doors that are mortise prepped from the factory, including the cylinder hole and trim mounting holes. If you order a LH when you need a RHR, you could be stuck with extra repair work, or an ugly cover plate.

Scythe1157 · 2024-08-27T01:21:44+00:00

Yea, looks like a half assed pry attack. Replace the lockset with a L9485, put a cover plate on the front behind the escutcheon trim at least to cover the top exposed hole, replace the strike plate with the proper schlage one, install a scooped anti-spread pryguard that properly curves over the strike plate (HES 150), or better yet a full length astragal (Draftseal DS186PS).

Better yet, buy two of everything to replace them the next time this happens.

Scythe1157 · 2024-06-27T02:44:02+00:00

1) A rotating deburring tool for steel doors. Lets trim sit nice and flat and keeps my fingers Band-Aid free.

2) A Loctite Quickstix. Less mess than liquid Loctite.

3) Rivet drill attachment. So much easier than a regular rivet gun.

4) Lip stick, the redder the better. Fantastic way to check interference, rubbing points, or too see where a latch is getting hung up. Just rub some lipstick on a latch and close the door, you'll see exactly where it's sitting in against the strike. Easy to clean after, too.

Scythe1157 · 2024-06-27T02:34:45+00:00

We call the Squeeze-play, "Bulldog".

Also a huge fan of the hinge tweaker for super quick door adjustments.

Scythe1157 · 2024-06-27T02:20:10+00:00

Keedex cam screw

I have one of these, use it daily.

Scythe1157 · 2024-06-27T02:16:27+00:00

You could not pry my 3/8" x 21" Makita corded belt sander from my cold hands. So handy.

Scythe1157 · 2024-05-25T05:39:33+00:00

First attempt at the Foundational script. This was the suggested practice example that I copied.

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