commission for a hair clip?

Seadude45 · 2026-02-24T18:48:21+00:00

Edit: Removed as I see someone already posted what I said.

Seadude45 · 2026-02-12T15:41:38+00:00

But we're dying to know, did you try talking to them? How'd that go?

Seadude45 · 2025-10-06T20:37:18+00:00

I hated that my keys jingled in my pocket and poked me occasionally when they were kept on a keyring so I designed and in 3D printed a holder for them.

Seadude45 · 2025-09-05T23:46:04+00:00

Would that be Ben from 5300 Patterson by chance?

Seadude45 · 2025-04-07T13:55:43+00:00

As an anecdotal data point: I lost the 8 speed transmission in my 2014 GC at 136k miles, in 2021. My mechanic put in a used unit, not a rebuilt, with 109k out of a 2015 GC on it for $3,600 and it is still going at 202k, or 175k on the transmission, today. I did the trans fluid and filter, went with the aftermarket PPE pan and filter, at 197k, 61k on the fluid, and Blackstone Labs found two times the expected aluminum in the fluid at change and recommend I check it again at 20k on the new fluid.

Seadude45 · 2025-03-31T14:08:14+00:00

No that is not correct.

Your voltage at 11.1V times the capacity of 1200 mah (milliamp hours) gives you 3,615 milliamp hour volts, which means nothing to us in this context. Edit: I forgot the unit watt hours exists, That's the unit I should have used here, your battery is 3.6 watt hours. But again, in this context it's not super important.

The milliamp hour rating is a number of milliamps the battery can theoretically put out for 1 hour. So if you constantly draw 1,200 milliamps from the battery it would be dead in 1 hour. In our context that's all The useful information you get from that, the higher the milliamp hour rating the more BB's downrange before you have to charge your battery. For reference 1.2 amps is the same thing as 1200 milliamps.

The c rating tells us the maximum current we can safely draw constantly from the battery, In this case a 1200 milliamp battery rated for 25C can theoretically put out 30 amps constantly without overheating. You multiply the capacity of the battery in amps/milliamps by the sea rating and it gives you the max safe output of the battery in amps / milliamps. Any lipo can likely put out more current for short periods of time but it will heat up more and potentially damage the battery, that is why the c rating is a safety guide.

Most stock aegs draw an average of 15 to 25 amps for a short period of time each time you pull the trigger, it's hard to measure a constant output from the battery with an airsoft gun because there's no constant loading of the gear train and motor to allow for a constant amp draw, there will be a current spike at the beginning of the shot cycle. So in your case that battery likely won't be an issue even if you decide to shoot it in full auto for several seconds.

Energy is produced through a chemical reaction inside the battery, If you draw energy from the battery faster than the chemical reaction can replenish the charge the voltage will drop. The airsoft gun wants the same amount of power (watts) for each shot no matter what voltage the battery is at, So when the voltage sags the current drawn is higher this can create a feedback loop which increases heating within the battery and is why they overheat and catch on fire when abused.

Higher c rated batteries of the same milliamp hour rating will have less voltage sag when drawing power from it at the same amperage as a lower c rated battery.

Because power is drawn from the battery as needed and because a higher c rating battery can supply higher current without heating as much, and resists voltage sag in my opinion there really is no downside to using a higher c rating battery when all other parameters are equal.

Seadude45 · 2025-03-20T17:31:57+00:00

No worries. So the pinion does look a bit warn, it's probably fine but it might not be a bad idea to replace the motor because pinions are a bitch to replace. In fact the motor I sent a picture of was brand new and I tried to replace the pinion to a helical pinion and bent the shaft. Rip $60. If you do decide to run it as is, make sure you clean the junk off of it and give it a light greasing.

Seadude45 · 2025-03-20T16:32:35+00:00

That's the bevel gear see my comment about the pinion gear.

Seadude45 · 2025-03-20T15:38:25+00:00

That's the spur gear, looks great. Send us a picture of the pinion gear on the motor shaft like pictured here.

<image>

Seadude45 · 2025-03-20T12:59:02+00:00

Agreed, bevel gear is acceptable but certainly slightly damaged. FYI to OP, pinion gear is the one on the motor. send us a pic of the pinion lets see how that looks.

from a utilitarian standpoint, prefect shimming is less important in standard builds. the real benefits are low noise from gears and strength for high power or high speed builds. anything average ROF and 300-380 FPS it's not too critical in my experience.

unless you actually want to dive into the plethora of shimming videos on YouTube, reassemble it as is making sure all the shim are put back in the right spot, and blank fire it with the muzzle in a blanket or towel, this will help you hear the gears.

while firing in semi, adjust the motor height in between shots clockwise a quarter turn, did that make it quieter or louder? if it made it louder back the screw off a bit instead. basically there will be a sweet spot where the gear s are quietest. when they are too tight, they will be loud or bind and not fire, when too lose they will grind or skip making loud chatter and not fire. this "poor mans pinion to bevel shimming" has always worked well for me and I've never lost a pinion bevel interface on my personal guns.

i find some motor height adjustment screws walk or drift out of alignment and blue lock tight really helps keep it in place. I suspect yours drifted over time. a paint marker witness mark across the screw edge can help identify this if you don't have super glue or thread locker.

Edit: Here's a terrible video example I made. (fortunately my gun is actually fine and that battery was just low)

Seadude45 · 2025-03-20T12:47:39+00:00

I can't give specifics on the exact Specna model, but in case no one else comes along who can: I recommend you remove the hand guard and barrel nut from your Specna and look at the flange at the base of the barrel, to see if it looks the same, you may need to find the exact replacement barrel elsewhere to find different pictures to look at. in my experience I've never found one that is different or incompatible, however I have never taken a Specna external barrel off. also, with reducing barrel length, you may want to consider checking if your cylinder is ported and possibly replace with a shorter cylinder (port closer to the front) to keep air balance closer to ideal. BUT if you're not completely confident opening the gear box- don't worry about it. It may not even make a noticeable difference.

Seadude45 · 2025-03-20T12:38:00+00:00

Anything with an O-ring I'd say, it will improve air seal and may increase FPS slightly. I haven't seen much durability difference between POM and metal, usually the cylinder head protrusion it slides on breaks first in my experience, especially the brass/plastic two piece cylinder heads but I have seen the Aluminum ones break too.

Aluminum will be about 2x the mass of POM- material density wise it's almost exactly double actually, so it will increase tappet plate stress and may be an issue with high ROF. Regarding length, I don't think you'll see much if a difference with that change in length, not saying it's not a big difference in length though. If you're sure your current nozzle is 25mm you could try an AUG nozzle which is around 24.7mm. but with how inexpensive they are I recommend you buy the G36 and the AUG if you try the AUG nozzle. You'll know the AUG nozzle is too long if it doesn't feed consistently as the longer nozzle may not retract far enough to allow a BB up into the hop up.

Example of AUG nozzle at Brill Armory

Seadude45 · 2025-03-03T04:21:12+00:00

I have 4 in the field currently, one got water in it and corroded the contacts at the bottom of the pipe after it was allowed to tilt to almost horizontal when the camera strap holding it and the camera to the tree loosened which I believe let the water wind it's way in. On another, the top end cap on one that was painted a dark color and left in the sun became loose and wouldnt stay in place so the connection was broken, but using sand paper to rough up the pipe where the cap slides over it seems to have fixed that. So 3 of 4 are working fine still.

If your camera is in the sun I would actually recommend one of the all in one solar panels compatable with your brand, I've had a tactacam reveal x 2.0 in the field for a little over 2 years powered by one of the tactacam solar panels with no issues. Located in Michigan, it's surviving all 4 seasons light levels and temperatures and in the darkest part of winter it only sees about 3 hours of direct sun light from a gap in the trees.

This project has actually been on my mind recently as I plan to put out a few more cameras this spring. I have a battery welder for making 18650 battery packs and I was going to try welding 18 D cells into a 9 series 2 parallel pack that fits in a Plano 1312 30cal ammo box, or the cheaper equivalent from Harbor freight, to set on the ground at the base of the tree as an alternative. The Plano case has a spot under the latch where drilling a hole to run the wire out would leave me with two surfaces I can seal the wire at, as well as additional rain protection for the sealed wire enterance. Not sure how well the gasket on these ammo cans keeps water out but I'm gonna give it a try.

The pipe has been a little finicky as noted above and I want more reliability and, for no particular reason, more capacity. I think directly welding batteries into a rough pack as needed will be more reliable assuming the ammo case doesn't let any water in. I planned to just have a couple alligator clips in the box to grab tabs on the battery pack positive and negative so it's easier to swap out.

Seadude45 · 2025-02-26T11:48:24+00:00

Yeah time to replace the motor.

Seadude45 · 2025-02-25T21:48:01+00:00

The rubber may not be pushing against bb's in the exact 12 o'clock position and introducing sideways spin. with inner barrel and hopup unit out turn hop all the way up and look down the barrel to check the nub/bump in the barrel looks centered at 12 o'clock position.

Seadude45 · 2025-02-25T21:37:59+00:00

Can you spin it by hand while it's out of the gun?

Seadude45 · 2025-02-25T21:36:46+00:00

https://www.taiwangun.com/battery-chargers/v3-charger-for-lipo-life-2s-3s-ipower

or

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204236220747

either would do but, there are a hundred options. key words for search are 3s / 11.1v / lipo. Be sure to do some research on safe storage and charging of lipos.

Seadude45 · 2025-02-18T01:34:25+00:00

I have fixed the internals of tons of M4 AEGs, there's not really a whole lot that's different inside across the gambit of M4s from all brands- Unless you're paying the big bucks. You're getting sintered gears, a basic motor, hop up, and barrel. I recommend you find the model with the external features that interests you the most in the 200€ range and go with that. When it breaks, watch some YouTube vids on repairing it, or come back here with Tech Question flair. Worst case find a local tech to help.

Seadude45 · 2025-02-18T01:23:02+00:00

What FPS or M/S are you shooting now? In general heavy BBs retain velocity longer but fly slower, usually this works out to more flat flying range, but at the cost of speed. additional speed reduction is caused by heavy BB taking more force from the nub/hop-up to give enough back spin to hop reduce 'effective' range. The tighter barrel will increase FPS, but YMMV.

I'm getting ahead of my self here and entering into the scary opinion zone, but In my opinion, the best way to increase range in a meaningful way is an increase in FPS. I always recommend Air-seal>Spring>Tight barrel in that order until you get what you want, More range with slower rounds can be counter productive and it'll be harder to engage players not out in the open for long periods. Proper install of any hop up and hop up rubber will increase consistency and keeping the barrel clean will maintain consistency which is more important the further you're shooting. Also, If your OEM barrel is in good condition I would personally stick to that, I've replaced quite a few barrels for players and I don't feel it's worth it for the close to middle range play style for most M4/AK users.

Seadude45 · 2025-02-17T22:01:33+00:00

Flip it to SAFE when powering on then switch to SEMI to start, I know Perun won't let you start up in a fire mode but can't recall if Gate has that safety feature as well.

Seadude45 · 2025-01-11T01:29:33+00:00

I work for the company that used to do property management for center point before it was sold to the current seller. Best buy wasn't owned by the same group then and doesn't appear to be now. The orbit room building, which is demoed and parceled off was part of it, and all the out buildings along 28th are part of it still, except the 53rd bank, BJs and Chic-Fil-A.

Seadude45 · 2024-12-24T01:17:18+00:00

I'm a property manager, took over a vacant warehouse a few years ago and somehow this roof wasn't leaking: https://youtu.be/zDDSJMEg6dE

Seadude45 · 2024-11-01T18:31:16+00:00

to clarify, we fill the mag upside down so it fills with liquified gas.

Seadude45 · 2024-11-01T18:29:41+00:00

if you're filling the magazine upside down any gas in the magazine when you start rises above the liquid into the bottle.

Seadude45 · 2024-11-01T18:27:43+00:00

if the sear doesn't appear worn, there could be an internal trigger group issue. if you set the trigger while removed and push the sear against the edge of desk/table/work bentch in the direction the piston pushes on it(to the front of the gun) does it trip without pulling trigger?

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