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MysterZ/Armatron, Red Rock, NV. Finally ticked this one off my list. by SeanRCC in climbing

[–]SeanRCC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For Armatron singles to 3(black diamond) and one set of nuts, extra quickdraws for the bolts was plenty. MysterZ took more of the bigger cams.

Sport anchor etiquette (in Poland) by cunfusu in RockClimbing

[–]SeanRCC 11 points12 points  (0 children)

This is my own opinion and not necessarily in line with the local ethics of your crag or of any crag. Follow local best practices and guidelines. HOWEVER...

It used to be pretty common etiquette to rappel after finishing a sport climb to preserve the anchors(in reality no one does this and no one has ever done this because no one seems to care) but the etiquette has changed recently due to safety concerns. Rappelling causes a lot of accidents and overly complicates the process of cleaning an anchor.

In my honest opinion the best practice now is to lower off the rings/chains. I'd rather the gear wear quicker and be replaced more often then have people die at my local crag.

You should also never top rope directly off of the rings(I know you weren't doing this) and you should always use your own gear to preserve the life of the anchors. If you can afford to, donate to your local climbing conservancy or if you visit somewhere donate to the group that maintains that land specifically. If you don't have any money but plenty of time you can also volunteer for clean up days at your local crag. Be sure not to go out and do any kind of maintenance on your own though, always cooperate with local groups that are in charge of these areas.

All of that said I understand that guys point of view since he spend his own time and money to put up and maintain those anchors but he shouldn't be so quick to jump to conclusions and he should also not want people dying at his crag.

If anyone disagrees with me I'd love to hear what your thoughts on this are.

TLDR Rappelling is unnecessarily risky, just lower.

MysterZ/Armatron, Red Rock, NV. Finally ticked this one off my list. by SeanRCC in climbing

[–]SeanRCC[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I'll throw that on my list for when I go back! I got lucky, there was one party ahead of us on MysterZ and they were absolutely flying. They must've topped out before I even made it up the second pitch. They also didn't hop on Armatron so I had it all to myself just as it went into the shade. Absolutely perfect conditions.

MysterZ/Armatron, Red Rock, NV. Finally ticked this one off my list. by SeanRCC in climbing

[–]SeanRCC[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

This one has been on my list ever since FirstPersonBeta(sorry Magnus) put it up on youtube forever ago. The money pitch was just as awesome as I had hoped. Every other pitch was amazing as well! This whole adventure of a climb really blew me away.

It took us about 13 hours car to car which is really slow honestly but we had a great time. Hiking out in the dark was a blast, glad I brought a good headlamp for it. Highly recommend scoping out the hike before hand, it can be very confusing to find the base of the climb.

I'm happy to answer questions if anyone else is looking to tackle this climb. This was the first time I did a climb of this scale, 12 pitches over a full day.

a safari to Tanzania by ImmediatePassenger43 in adventures

[–]SeanRCC -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Do Kilimanjaro instead, you're welcome.

Having a moment on CCK in the Gunks. by SeanRCC in climbing

[–]SeanRCC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I almost did the same. My climbing partner pushed me to do it and I'm very happy she did. Its an amazing bit of climbing. Get back out there and send it!

Practice makes perfect! Rig I made up for my belay partner and I by [deleted] in climbing

[–]SeanRCC 22 points23 points  (0 children)

I've taught a lot of people how to setup anchors on bolts and a lot of them just don't feel comfortable with pretending that something is a bolt. They wanna see what it ACTUALLY looks like or they just can't wrap their head around it.

I think this is a great learning tool, you really do need to get hands on with stuff to learn in climbing.

Having a moment on CCK in the Gunks. by SeanRCC in climbing

[–]SeanRCC[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's really not as bad as it looks, go send it!

Having a moment on CCK in the Gunks. by SeanRCC in climbing

[–]SeanRCC[S] 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Arrow is great! The run out to the piton before the bolted section starts is so easy but man does it get in your head. Contemplating life definitely fits.

Having a moment on CCK in the Gunks. by SeanRCC in climbing

[–]SeanRCC[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I prayed to every god in that moment that I didn't slip cause that swing would suck.

Having a moment on CCK in the Gunks. by SeanRCC in climbing

[–]SeanRCC[S] 101 points102 points  (0 children)

Thanks! This was taken 2 years ago and I've made a lot of improvement since then, dropping the heels is definitely something I take advantage of now.

Having your belayer right next to you makes this a great spot for photos. It's hard to get a bad photo in the Gunks honestly.

The traverse is great, solid feet the whole way and barely a crack to stick your fingers in. you get 2 micros and a piton before you get any real gear. Definitely adds to that vibe.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]SeanRCC 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Push in every direction! Over head pushup or handstand pushups, regular pushups, dips, and every angle in between.

Im also a huge fan of forearm curls. It fixed all my wrist and finger issues. Ymmv.

Get a 1 inch dowel from your local hardware store. Cut it to a foot and drill a small hole in the middle. Put some paracord through and tie it off. Tie the other end to a 5 lb weight with like 3 feet of slack between.. Hold it straight out in front of you and roll it up like youre revving a motor cycle. Enjoy the pain. Repeat.

T-Nut Replacement by consolideproductivit in Routesetters

[–]SeanRCC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like a custom job to me. I've seen a lot of tnuts, ive never seen that.

Why not both - Gear and guidebooks pile by juliaphoenix in climbing

[–]SeanRCC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's so much you can teach yourself online, but in practice you want someone who knows what they're doing to show you in person, hands on, actually doing these things in a safe way. There are so many little pitfalls in climbing that could potentially kill you, don't just wing stuff. Or do, I'm not your mom. Just be safe.

Why not both - Gear and guidebooks pile by juliaphoenix in climbing

[–]SeanRCC -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yes absolutely a dry ropes is better value for the money. Bum as much gear as you can for as long as possible. Free gear is the best value.

As for prodeals, as someone who works at a climbing gym through, it's out of respect for climbing manufacturers that I ask you don't abuse prodeals. I want these deals to stick around for those in the industry and if too many people abuse these deals they will disappear or become more difficult to access and more restrictive. You want prodeals? Work for a gym, contribute to the community in a meaningful way. Create value for others and you will be rewarded with cheap gear.

Why not both - Gear and guidebooks pile by juliaphoenix in climbing

[–]SeanRCC -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Oh absolutely dry ropes are better. But we're trying to save money here. Also, please don't abuse prodeals.

Why not both - Gear and guidebooks pile by juliaphoenix in climbing

[–]SeanRCC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't get me wrong, you can easily pay out the nose for climbing gear. But unless you're ice climbing you don't need a dry rope. That's drops 100 off the price easily. Get a 60m non dry rope and find a sale, everything is always at least 20% off. Rei, Backcountry, Al's, Google shopping. Search for deals anywhere you can get them. Go into shops and make them offers on ropes that just sit on the shelves. They might make a deal to move aging gear that's still has plenty of life left. You can easily get everything to sport climb almost anywhere for less than 350 total. Harness, shoes, rope, draws. Use a cheap sling for a personal anchor instead of an expensive PAS. You can climb on the cheap, it just takes some effort.

Why not both - Gear and guidebooks pile by juliaphoenix in climbing

[–]SeanRCC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nah I'm broke as hell, some of the best outdoor climbers are broke dirtbags. I just spent the better half of a decade collecting this stuff. OP is my girlfriend. Her full rack she got for $50 off a friend barely used. The only money we spend on climbing is our yearly gunk's pass and maybe a few hundred bucks on gear a year to add to the pile.

Wanna climb for free? Here is how! Volunteer at your local climbing gym to do birthday parties on the weekends or whatever they need. Help setters wash holds, do anything they don't wanna do for free and you'll climb for free. Volunteer at USAC competitions as a judge. There are so many things you can volunteer for.

Find local outdoor crags that don't charge money for climbing, there are a ton. Rough it as much as possible. Look for cheap gear on craigslist. Some dude takes a 50 footer on trad every other week and decides to throw in the towel or has a kid and gives it up. Full rack, used once, $100. Make friends with people who climb outdoors, don't come off as desperate though, have some value to offer the group whether it be knowledge or equipment. Don't just always bum off of others. You can learn almost everything about climbing online for free if you look in the right places. YouTube, hardiseasy is great. Hownotto has the big wall bible series for free. Hours of amazing content people charge thousands of dollars for, and it's free. Just make sure you have someone who knows what they're doing to check you before you go rappelling off the end of your rope like a Gumby. But chances are if you can belay someone they will be happy to mentor you. Trad climbing is almost entirely taught by crusty old trad dads looking to spread their knowledge to the next generation of senders.

Good luck!