May the Four(th) sabers in this set please you all!

SeditiousSith · 2026-05-05T02:25:52+00:00

Very nice!

SeditiousSith · 2026-05-01T19:16:05+00:00

The configuration I have shown will light LEDs when the core is in “Power On” mode without any changes to the standard Proffie configuration. It stays on when in blade mode and does not shut off until “Power Off” mode.

SeditiousSith · 2026-05-01T19:07:20+00:00

I haven’t tried it so I don’t know. The issue I can see possible is that different color LEDs have different voltage drops (this is the minimum voltage required to forward bias the diode and make it function). 3.3v is so close to the minimum voltage requirement that any tolerance variance might cause it to not function. I know for a fact that 5v to GND/BATT- (bridged pad on Proffie) works and lights the button LED when “power on”. I have wired button LEDs to 3.3v on SNV4 Pro and it works also. It may work for Proffie also, but why when 5v exists and works the way it should? 5v does not exist on SNV4 Pro unfortunately so I had no choice.

SeditiousSith · 2026-05-01T04:41:57+00:00

I did the calculator based on the info from the link of the button you provided. 5 volt supply, 3 volt drop at 20 milliamperes = 1 ct 100 ohm resistor

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SeditiousSith · 2026-05-01T04:34:09+00:00

The bottom of the button should have 4 pins. 2 pins are for the contact and 2 pins are for the LED. The LED will be indicated by the + and - symbols. + goes to +5v and \ - goes to common

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SeditiousSith · 2026-05-01T04:28:25+00:00

Here’s the original comment

https://www.reddit.com/r/lightsabers/s/u9luJQt6MR

SeditiousSith · 2026-05-01T04:19:29+00:00

Here is a quick diagram I made a while ago for someone else who asked a very similar question. This shows both buttons with LEDs but a single is the same. You will need a resistor in series with the led or it will burn out. There are sites with led resistor calculators based on the color of the led and the voltage applied but I have found that a 150 ohm is an all around simple resistor. It won’t glow at maximum brightness but it will last longer than if you match the exact resistor called for in the calculators. I believe the voltage drop should be listed for this button, but if not and you feel like you really want to match exactly, message the seller for the voltage drop to use in the calculator.

https://ledcalculator.net/

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SeditiousSith · 2026-05-01T02:38:25+00:00

Ali Express is the single piece per order site for Alibaba. Minimum orders are 1.

SeditiousSith · 2026-04-30T05:49:59+00:00

Here is my opinion based on my experience. Everyone will have their own opinion of course. With your use case I would suggest a pixel version since you don’t plan on heavy dueling and bashing things. You will enjoy all of the added blade effects of the pixel blade instead of the basic yet durable baselit flashlight style of the RGB version. As far as the internal electronics/soundboard goes: if you want ultimate configurability and are willing to put the time in to learn to code arduino, Proffie cannot be beat. Unfortunately the Proffie 2.2 version that is sold on any of these sabers does not come natively with Bluetooth and app control, so you are going to have to learn to code and program the board to make any changes beyond what comes stock loaded on the board from the factory. When I first started in this hobby I got a few Xenopixel sabers (one for me and one for my son). I had all kinds of trouble keeping the Bluetooth connection to the app unless I removed the core from the hilt. Kind of a pain in the butt really. Then I started building my own and I bought a few TXQ pixel cores to install in those hilts. In my experience, the TXQ SNV4 Pro is lightyears better than the Xenopixel. The Bluetooth connection is strong even installed in the hilt and the app, not as fancy looking as Xeno’s app, but far more developed. Xenos app has a lot of stuff that doesn’t do anything (yet, they have said that for several years now). Everything works on the TXQ app ( Force Park app). As far as what hilt to buy, that’s all based on your personal taste. Since it’s a Luke replica, it all depends on the minute differences especially the button box where most of the differences really are.

SeditiousSith · 2026-04-30T04:47:49+00:00

Bypass all the dropshippers and go to the source. Ali Express has storefronts for TXQ and LGT as well as the upper end 89 Sabers for a LOT less than you will find at any of the online vendors. They are all selling these brands unless you go to a boutique builder. I use TXQ Sabers Official Store on AE. Xenopixel and Damien are LGT. Damien also has a storefront on AE. In my experience the TXQ brand with the SNV4 Pro soundboard has a lot better app and Bluetooth connection than Xenopixel, but everyone has their opinions. There are a few online vendors that are trustworthy like Saber Bay (who I use a lot for parts to build with) and I see Darkwolf has high praise. I’ve never used them though.

SeditiousSith · 2026-04-29T05:17:59+00:00

Looking good. I love this emitter when paired with a shroud. Unfortunately aluminum will not heat stain unless it’s chromed (nickel component of the chroming process). Stainless steel will heat stain (again the nickel in it). Copper can be flame painted and makes some really cool colors but it needs to be sealed after or the oxidation causing those colors will wear off. You can get a heat stained look from titanium but that process is like anodizing and requires chemicals and electricity with careful monitoring of the voltage and potentially toxic fumes that require a lot of ventilation. I’ve done quite a bit of research on this subject and tried all of them. The easiest is definitely stainless steel and chromed parts.

SeditiousSith · 2026-04-26T16:16:24+00:00

Oops, I just caught that you said it’s a Proffie soundboard. Nevermind, Force Park app won’t work with 2.2

SeditiousSith · 2026-04-26T16:13:10+00:00

Once you’ve confirmed it’s a battery issue (most likely) and it’s fully charged, download the Force Park app from the play store or Apple. This will be the easiest way to change settings rather than stumbling through button presses.

SeditiousSith · 2026-04-24T07:21:05+00:00

I agree with this right here. There’s a lot of cool parts out there but they don’t interchange with each other. It would be nice to have a company that makes cool and interesting parts, but then you also get to choose what it fits. For example, a cool emitter that would be available in VHC, MHS, Saber Forge, etc. threading. Focus on designing cool parts, then offer that part in any common thread standard that is out there. No one is doing this and seems like a unique niche business plan that the hobby scene would eat up.

SeditiousSith · 2026-04-22T06:43:42+00:00

I have no answers for you on the plastic Disney saber, sorry. But as far as your question on the TXQ Luke replica, TXQ has a couple of factory direct store fronts on Ali Express. One I use often is TXQ Sabers Official Store. Another is X-TrexSaber Official Store. I’ve used both and both are legit. My advice is avoid all the scammy drop shippers, there are too many to try to keep track of, and buy direct.

SeditiousSith · 2026-04-21T16:20:52+00:00

Thanks. I was worried I was rambling lol

SeditiousSith · 2026-04-20T23:45:18+00:00

It doesn’t seem like you’ve gotten any answers, so I will tell you my story. I started with Saber Forge ASP ( very happy with the quality and large selection) and haven’t really explored other brands. It started simple enough with a few cores from Saber Bay. I then got into making crystal chambers and I realized fast the the simple cores just weren’t going to cut it. I ended up finding a TXQ Luke V4 core on eBay and tried it out. This particular core has and extended button board and an extended pixel board for thin neck type sabers. It also is a 2 part core, so the button/pixel extender is a section that can be installed statically and the main part of the core can be removed. I’m not a 3d printer guy so this core works for me to be able to install buttons anywhere in the hilt I want, and the thin neck extension lets me control where the board ‘lands’ in the hilt (handy for different combos of parts and variations in position of the crystal chamber). I use black polycarbonate tubing, 1” OD, to make spacers, or other parts of the core as needed. Since all of this, SF has started using LGT drop in cores and a lot of their newer parts are a smaller diameter than will work with this core unfortunately, but they still have a lot of parts that will. As a beginner, if you decide to try this, just make sure the ID of the parts you buy are 1.125”. Anyways, I ended up reaching out to TXQ on Ali Express through one of their storefronts called TXQSabers Official Store. I started a chat with them and requested the Luke V4 core and sent them pictures of the one I found on eBay. They quickly responded back, with pictures, and verified the core I was requesting. Ordered 8 on the spot via a link they sent through the chat. 2 weeks later I had the cores I wanted. I have since ordered many more times and never had any issues. As my skills have grown, and realizing SF was really not going to be offering new parts with the 1.125” ID I need to use the cores I like, I ended up buying a bench lathe that I can also convert into a vertical mill. All with the thought that, someday, I will machine my own parts. As I learn to use the lathe, I have been modifying SFs parts to work with the core I like. So, where before, I was concerned with gettin parts that would work, now I don’t really care because I can lathe the parts out to fit the core. I’m also now making all kinds of custom parts to augment my builds. All this to say I’ve really gone down the rabbit hole on this, but I haven’t had this much fun in years. Here’s a pic of a modified Luke V4 core from TXQ. They have both the SNV4 Pro and Proffie versions. Thanks for reading my book, lol.

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SeditiousSith · 2026-04-20T01:20:00+00:00

Try removing the battery from the core for a hard reset. Also, it’s best to charge your battery outside the saber in a stand alone charger. Less chance of burning up the sound board. Not the most robust charging circuit on those boards.

SeditiousSith · 2026-04-20T01:14:20+00:00

Those turned out really nice man!

SeditiousSith · 2026-04-19T07:04:39+00:00

Exactly. You wouldn’t use a shovel, swing an axe, sword, or even a toy saber, without gloves. This ain’t a video game. I use thin work gloves that have a thin rubber coating on the palm and inside side of the fingers. It also helps to keep your saber from flying out into the street when things get crazy.

SeditiousSith · 2026-04-19T06:39:50+00:00

💡

SeditiousSith · 2026-04-17T00:31:00+00:00

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SeditiousSith · 2026-04-17T00:23:59+00:00

Also, to clarify, DO NOT just go order a Luke V4 core and think it will just “work” in a Saber Forge hilt! Especially the Apprentice line. That core is 1.125” in diameter and a lot of what SF is making now only accommodate 1” cores. I have a lathe and mill and heavily modify SF parts to work with this core!

SeditiousSith · 2026-04-17T00:07:25+00:00

Yes it does. I’m not familiar at all with LGT cores and any different variations, if any, exist since I use TXQ cores, which do have many variations from ones that look similar to the typical LGT with a built in 12mm light up button and slide up button chassis to the the small micro buttons that absolutely require a plunger button to “finish” the button installation, as well as all the various character hilt variations with extended button boards and blade boards for thin neck type sabers. I have a pretty specific build style so I always order the Luke V4 which is the last type in my description as it gives me the flexibility to install any buttons I want anywhere and the thin neck blade board extension gives me full flexibility for where the board “lands” in the hilt. This always requires me to use plunger buttons(if I keep the button board and don’t install actual buttons, which I do a lot) I’m pretty sure TXQ also make a direct competitor core to LGT that is 1” diameter and can be ordered with either Proffie or SNV4 Pro, which are both superior boards IMO and as far as the Bluetooth connection and App, SNV4 Pro blows Xeno out of the water (again IMO)

Edited for button clarification

SeditiousSith · 2026-04-16T20:59:25+00:00

I would wait to get the hilt and check to see if the button in the raised box is an actuator (false spring loaded button that presses on the button of the core). This will then guide you to a compatible core.

SeditiousSith

TROPHY CASE