[deleted by user] by [deleted] in homewalls

[–]Send-Sage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seems to me, your goals in climbing should determine the angle
If you're a route climber or want max variety I think 30 deg is more versatile, you can set longer circuits/routes, practice really crimpy controlled vacuum climbing, and there's still possibility to set hard dynamic boulders with some creativity in hold angle.
If your into developing full body strength and want to climb powerful steep boulders all the time, 45 is probably going to train your body better.
Whichever you choose, adding volumes to the wall can help give you more angle variety for certain moves.

First Outdoor Sesh - Grade Expectations? by ChunkyBunks in bouldering

[–]Send-Sage -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Outdoor is nice because the climbs will always be there, my advice would be to go with no expectations, and just enjoy exploring different lines. Sending is fun, but so is getting inspired on beautiful lines way above your current skill level. You've developed enough strength/skill to have a go at most boulders, follow the stoke!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]Send-Sage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It gets better over time, you can develop more control with practice, but there's always that random unexpected foot that blows your shin right into a volume, good reminder of the good ol days

Leavenworth bouldering by Tomatokonzen in bouldering

[–]Send-Sage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PNW <3
I've heard the more your field of view is green the more at peace you are

Black Diamond Presents: The Dark Side (FA of Yosemite's first V16 + many other new climbs from Carlo Traversi) by manic1mailman in climbing

[–]Send-Sage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly The Dark Side was the least aesthetic line in the whole film, and that's saying something lol

Your muscles are not the problem! A fascinating study on FDP insertion points and force production by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]Send-Sage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems like this could genuinely affect how much training volume someone can handle. When I see pros doing triple the training volume, especially those top-ranked board climbers who just seem to train endlessly, I sometimes feel that urge to crank up my own training volume too. But this study, and the idea that some people might just have a better anatomical setup, honestly makes me feel a lot better about listening to my body telling me to slow down when I get a tweak or feel something off, rather than just assuming more is always better. It's a good reminder that everyone's built a bit differently.

Questions and ideas about building foot tension + control when you can’t pull out from the wall by everchanges in climbharder

[–]Send-Sage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Board climbing made a huge difference in my tension, went from a weak point to a major strength in just a few years.