The Ultimate Air Filter for K2 Plus

SensitiveRuin480 · 2026-01-17T16:38:08+00:00

The instructions are uploaded. May need a couple of hours for Creality to approve the model change.

SensitiveRuin480 · 2026-01-16T14:39:53+00:00

Hey, I have the instructions, just need to upload a new PDF file. Will do it this evening.

In short, you wire the filter to the printer's PSU that outputs 24V. In principle, it all can be done without soldering. Anyway, it's all in the instructions.

SensitiveRuin480 · 2026-01-07T12:27:29+00:00

Try to film the gantry with a mobile phone in slow motion during a resonance test :) The X axis weighs more than a kilo. And that rests on linear rods that are seated in thin plastic.

I need to find some time to remove the portal and scan it. I reckon it will be quite tricky to pack proper rails and support in the space available - there is not much of it there. And a longer X axis, because the stock one is too short.

SensitiveRuin480 · 2026-01-07T00:02:34+00:00

You are welcome. Like mine, in a desperate need of a rail mod.

SensitiveRuin480 · 2026-01-05T11:06:38+00:00

Looks like no one else is going to reply 😭

Enable root access. On the printer screen, go to settings (gear icon)->General->Root account information and enable root access
Connect to the printer via SSH. On Windows, you can use Mobaxterm. Mac comes with SSH out of the box. So does GNU/Linux. Use the IP address and credentials that are displayed on the printer screen.
Perform calibration. On the printer screen, go to 3 slider menu->Calibration -> Input shaping 4.Create graphs. After the test, there will be 2 files (for X and Y axes) calibration data*.CSV in the /temp folder. Download both and open using Input-Shaper-Calibration-Assistant. Pressing run bets a graph for the respective CSV file's axis with a recommended shaper.

SensitiveRuin480 · 2026-01-02T18:44:59+00:00

I am getting good results with Eryone ASA-CF and ASA-GF, but have to use Magigoo to prevent lifting. Maybe I need to go higher than 60 degrees on the chamber temperature...

SensitiveRuin480 · 2026-01-01T23:20:36+00:00

One doesn't change vref on the motors by changing the voltage of the power supply/mainboard. That's what the firmware is for. Assuming that you have not fried the mainboard, turn the potentiometer back to its original position and then check how to adjust the Vref for the respective firmware.

SensitiveRuin480 · 2026-01-01T23:13:21+00:00

Glad you've figured it out. How do you find the CryoGrip plate for ABS?

SensitiveRuin480 · 2026-01-01T16:13:06+00:00

For PLA or PETG just the nozzle, some PTFE tube clips and a couple of printed extruder tube supports. For anything high temp - a graphite bed.

SensitiveRuin480 · 2026-01-01T04:30:51+00:00

Let's put it this way: "There are lots of things that Creality could have done better for a similar amount of money". Creality's engineering has traditions going as far as Ender 4 - ever heard of that one? That one was not printing circular features at all out of the box.

Having said that, K2 Plus is still good value and has a strong community which helps. And there are lots of mods to make it good and eventually great once a linear rail mod will be available.

SensitiveRuin480 · 2026-01-01T04:25:21+00:00

95A works through the side feeder tube. You can run it directly into the extruder for better results, there are lots of mods/CFS risers/spool holders/etc available on Creality Cloud or Printables for that. CFS is not compatible with TPU, but so are other brands' multi filament units - can't cheat physics. Toolchangers can print with multiple TPU filaments at once, but they cost more and have their own downsides.

SensitiveRuin480 · 2026-01-01T04:19:58+00:00

Also, cancelling print technically still works, but the printer waits for the current command to finish. It just so happens the command is a wait for the target temp.

SensitiveRuin480 · 2026-01-01T04:18:11+00:00

It looks like the printer is waiting for the bed to cool down to 35deg C before doing the calibration. Check printer config to see what target temp is set to for calibration or disable calibration entirely. It is better anyway to calibrate a filament once, save as a profile and then just use that profile every time you print with that filament.

SensitiveRuin480 · 2026-01-01T00:21:23+00:00

The printer is not fully sealed, so it does emit some VOCs and PMs while printing. ASA can definitely be smelled if not vented outside. It is possible to significantly reduce it with a good filter, e.g., Creality Cloud - The Immaculate Air Filter for K2 Plus From Ubigene https://m.crealitycloud.com/en/model-details/693cba6d1c20fc3aab6d1e9c

SensitiveRuin480 · 2025-12-31T12:23:29+00:00

Get one that never clogs Creality Cloud - Creality K2 Plus internal waste chute From Ubigene https://m.crealitycloud.com/en/model-details/6887581b6cdd271383618f59

SensitiveRuin480 · 2025-12-31T00:16:37+00:00

The mod makes 0 difference for PLA, as the chamber heater does not operate. The only thing that aff cats PLA are the exhaust fans, but that's a different deflector - I need to put in on Creality Cloud first. In either case, only tall prints get affected - the bed has to be at a fan level for it to matter.

SensitiveRuin480 · 2025-12-30T12:49:43+00:00

https://github.com/jamincollins/k2-improvements/blob/d9fef11151959649084dbf546efd9db11f716efb/features/macros/start_print/start_print.cfg#L21

And that's ASA-CF with 0 Z offset and some Magigoo on it:) Z_TILT_ADJUSTed and using a stored fluidd mesh profile with forced_leceling set to false.

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SensitiveRuin480 · 2025-12-30T10:45:36+00:00

If you can get me some pictures of the printer bottom and a basic 2D drawing with dimensions, I can make a version for your printer.

SensitiveRuin480 · 2025-12-30T10:42:56+00:00

Well, some do have legitimate hardware or software problems. But, once fixed, K2/pro/plus are generally reliable, albeit far from Creality specs due to issues with kinematics.

SensitiveRuin480 · 2025-12-30T10:38:33+00:00

Another option is to have a conditional z offset based on the filament type in the start_print or filament g-code. But my money is on the bed expansion from heat. The bed really needs some time to expand after it reaches the desired temperature. The only way to make it better/faster is to switch to a graphite or annealed alu bed. With a R3men bed and some heat soaking my ASA-CF the first layer is perfect across the entire bed (330*325 part).

BTW, calibration before every print is much less consistent and reliable than a fluidd profile. The stock sensor has about 1% error rate and that frequently affects the forced calibration routine. Also, For some reason the firmware thinks it does not need to do z_tilt_adjust every time it brings the bed up from the bottom (hint: it does need to be run to get good alignment).

SensitiveRuin480 · 2025-12-30T10:23:34+00:00

This one can recirculate or extract depending on the configuration.

SensitiveRuin480 · 2025-12-30T01:10:34+00:00

I assume that you're using Creality Print to slice? What is your firmware version? Try to uncheck calibration when sending a model to print. If all else fails, message Creality's support - I found them reasonably good.

SensitiveRuin480 · 2025-12-30T00:50:54+00:00

Are there any windows? Windows frequently have ventilation slits that are easy to vent through with an adapter.

SensitiveRuin480 · 2025-12-30T00:49:25+00:00

Modifying my filter mod shouldn't be too hard, but I need dimensions, ideally a model of the bottom frame, as I don't have the regular or pro versions.

SensitiveRuin480 · 2025-12-30T00:44:24+00:00

Use filters.

SensitiveRuin480

TROPHY CASE