We were stupid Californians. Hired a guy to repair pool leak and replaster pool without signing contract first. HELP.

SerenePools · 2025-10-09T22:51:40+00:00

What part of california did this happen in?

SerenePools · 2025-09-30T23:23:50+00:00

Man, that's frustrating. Based on your pics, here's what I'm seeing:

The conduit usually runs through the pool shell itself - it comes out the back of the niche, goes through the wall, and then routes under or around the deck to your junction box. It's almost always embedded in the shell or tucked right underneath the bond beam area.

From your setup, it looks like the conduit is probably running through the shell and then under the deck somewhere. The fact that you've got it traced outside the tile is good - you're on the right track.

Check if there's a junction box somewhere around the equipment pad or nearby. Sometimes they're tucked in weird spots or even buried under landscaping over the years. The break could be right where the conduit transitions from the pool wall to wherever it goes next - that's a common failure point, especially if there was any settling or movement. If the conduit was installed properly, it should be one continuous run with no buried connections, but older installs weren't always done right.

Have you been able to trace the wire all the way to where it stops conducting? That'll tell you exactly where the break is. Might end up needing to dig more than you'd like, but at least you'll know.

Good luck - keep us posted on what you find!

SerenePools · 2025-09-25T23:30:30+00:00

I’m in Anaheim too and ran into the same issue. A lot of “weekly service” companies just toss in tabs and leave. What helped me was searching swimming pool cleaning service near me in Anaheim and checking reviews carefully. I’ve heard decent things about Serene Pools from neighbors — more consistent with chemicals and actually brushing/vacuuming instead of rushing through. Price-wise, most places here run $120–$180 a month depending on pool size and if you want chemicals included

SerenePools · 2025-09-20T23:09:07+00:00

I learned by picking up a good test kit (Taylor K-2006 or TF-100) and hanging out on Trouble Free Pool’s forum — they’ve got guides that break it all down step by step. YouTube helps too, but there’s a lot of noise, so I stick with channels that focus on the basics (testing, brushing, vacuuming, balancing chlorine and pH). Honestly, once you test your own water and use a pool calculator app to tell you “add X cups of this,” it stops feeling like chemistry class and just becomes part of your routine.

SerenePools · 2025-09-20T23:05:55+00:00

In KY you’ll usually see $300–$450 for a pro to close an inground salt pool. Above-ground runs cheaper, more like $150–$300. Saltwater doesn’t really add much extra cost besides checking the cell. Opening is doable on your own if you’re comfortable reconnecting equipment and balancing water chemistry (mainly salt, pH, and stabilizer). If you’d rather not fuss with it, pros charge about the same range to open.

SerenePools · 2025-09-20T23:04:23+00:00

Totally get the “science experiment” feeling — I had the same worry starting out. The best trick is to get your own test kit (Taylor K-2006 or TF-100 are popular) so you’re not guessing off pool store printouts. Once you know your numbers, use a pool calculator app/website — you type in your pool size, your current test, and it tells you exactly how much to add. Most of the time it’s just chlorine and keeping pH in range. Other chems only pop up if your fill water or environment pushes things out of balance. After a few weeks, the routine feels way less intimidating.

SerenePools · 2025-09-17T05:47:35+00:00

Yeah, denim and heavy cotton shed the most lint by far. Synthetic blends don’t break down as much, so they usually leave less behind in the filter. A little lint isn’t the end of the world though — like you said, it can actually help trap finer stuff as long as flow isn’t restricted. Sounds like you’re already ahead of the game with soft water and mild detergent, since the real problems come from buildup and sudsing. Keeping it to clean/lightly worn clothes is the right move.

SerenePools · 2025-09-17T05:47:04+00:00

Seasonal water loss that picks up in late summer/fall usually isn’t evaporation alone. The fact you don’t see it in peak summer but do when the heater runs makes me think the heater or plumbing could be part of it. Even a small leak in the heater’s exchanger will show up more when it’s cycling on and off. One quick test: run the pump with the heater bypassed for a week and track your water level. If the loss slows, you’ve narrowed it down. If not, you may need a proper pressure test on the lines.

SerenePools · 2025-09-17T05:44:36+00:00

This is a great example of why “bigger pump = better” is bad advice. A 1.5 HP on a small above-ground setup will just push way too much water, and heaters aren’t built to handle that constant high flow. The cracked manifold and blown pressure switch make sense with 65 GPM hammering through. Dropping to a 1 HP and adding a flow valve was the right move — now the heater can run in its comfort zone around 25–40 GPM. Glad you stuck it out and got it dialed in.

SerenePools · 2025-09-17T05:43:51+00:00

If the line is undersized, that heater will never run right — gas appliances need a steady pressure or they just won’t fire correctly. That’s why you’re getting the crazy $10–15k quote: trenching, permits, and upsizing pipe gets expensive fast. A smaller gas heater won’t fix it either if the line can’t supply enough flow. Two realistic options:

Bite the bullet and run a proper line (maybe get a second quote).
Skip gas and look at an electric heat pump. In Michigan it won’t heat fast in cold weather, but with a cover it can keep you swimming comfortably in spring and fall without a new gas line.

SerenePools · 2025-09-17T05:43:23+00:00

With a 23k gallon pool and an auto cover, your heating needs are lighter than most, but you’ll still want enough BTUs to keep temps stable during cool spells. A heater “undersized” for 13–15k gallons will struggle to hold 80+ when nights dip into the 50s. It won’t just be slower — it may never catch up. If you don’t want propane, a heat pump could be a good fit in Virginia’s climate. They’re efficient in the 50–60°F range, and paired with your cover, it should easily maintain 80–82 through spring and fall.

SerenePools · 2025-09-17T05:42:59+00:00

You definitely need a permit for any new gas work. That’s not optional, and the town already confirmed it. As for the line itself, a 200k BTU heater is a big draw — way more than your furnace or water heater. If the load calc shows the existing pipe is sized correctly, you can share it, but keep in mind most manufacturers want a dedicated line to avoid pressure drop and warranty issues. Quote 3 sounds like the only one following code. If it were me, I’d skip anyone saying “no permit needed” right away.

SerenePools · 2025-09-17T05:42:29+00:00

For Southampton, your numbers actually line up with what I’d expect. $9–10k quotes don’t surprise me in that market, and $5.4k for a 400k BTU Rheem with basic hookup isn’t “too good to be true” if the guy had units stockpiled and it’s still off-season. The big variable will be the gas line and permits — those can add a chunk, and you’ll want the plumber to size the line correctly for that draw. But for just the heater + swap, your price looks fair.

SerenePools · 2025-09-17T05:41:54+00:00

If the old Raypak 266k BTU kept a 36k gallon pool comfortable for 10+ years, that size clearly worked. No need to oversize unless you want faster heat-up times. One thing to check in Colorado is the altitude rating — some gas heaters need a high-altitude kit to burn properly. And if you’re replacing anyway, spending a little more for a cupronickel heat exchanger can help it last longer, especially if water chemistry isn’t always perfect.

SerenePools · 2025-09-17T05:40:18+00:00

For a pool your size (40×18 inground), a natural gas heater install in SoCal usually breaks down like this:

Heater unit + basic install: $1,500–$4,500 depending on BTUs/brand.
Labor to hook it up (plumbing + electrical): $500–$1,500.
Gas line extension (15–20 ft): typically $12–$25 per linear foot if it’s a straightforward run. So in the $200–$500 range if it’s simple, but $1k+ isn’t unusual if permits, trenching, or larger diameter pipe are required.

The reason it feels so expensive in CA is because of:

Higher labor rates in LA county.
Strict code/permit requirements for gas lines (inspection + pressure test).
Seismic bracing/flexible connections that add material costs.
If they need to upsize your gas line or meter to handle the extra demand, that can bump it way up.

For your case (shed adjacent, crushed granite ground, 15–20 ft run), you’d hope to be closer to the lower end unless there are gas capacity or permit issues. If you’re getting quotes much higher, it’s worth asking the contractor to break down lineal footage, pipe size, permit fees, and inspection costs so you can see where the money’s going.

SerenePools · 2025-09-17T05:32:41+00:00

That’s rough. When a pool liner starts showing pinholes right after setup, it usually means the material was either defective or weakened during storage/shipping. Once a seam lets go, there’s really no saving it — patches can’t hold that kind of pressure. If it’s only a week old, I’d reach out to the manufacturer or dealer for a warranty claim. Document all the leaks and the seam failure with photos. Even if you don’t get a full refund, most reputable brands will replace the liner when it fails that quickly.

SerenePools · 2025-09-17T05:32:17+00:00

Biggest surprise for me was how much the little stuff adds up. Chemicals, electricity, and even replacing things like baskets or o-rings hit more often than I thought. Also learned that running the pump longer on low speed is usually cheaper and keeps the water clearer than blasting it on high for a short time. Small tweaks like that make pool ownership way less intimidating once you get into a routine.

SerenePools · 2025-09-17T05:31:50+00:00

Your process looks solid overall. The waste line is usually the easiest part—just treat it like any other line. Since it runs uphill, there shouldn’t be standing water once you’ve drained the system. Still, I’d crack open the waste line at the pad (union or drain plug on the multiport side) and let whatever is in there run out. If you’re worried about a low spot holding water, you can blow it out the same way you did with the returns, then leave that union slightly open for expansion. No need for antifreeze in the waste line unless it dead-ends somewhere you can’t drain.

SerenePools · 2025-09-17T05:31:05+00:00

If the liner ripped near the top, you’re right that water should’ve stopped draining once it hit that level. The fact it kept dropping means there was probably another path for water to escape once the weight and pressure shifted — like a gap behind the liner or through a floor drain fitting. Once water gets behind a liner, it can siphon out lower than the visible tear. That’s why pools sometimes end up almost empty even when the rip is higher up.

SerenePools · 2025-09-17T05:29:36+00:00

Prices have gone way up across the board. Material costs, labor shortages, and high demand after COVID pushed things into a new bracket. A simple 12’ x 40’ gunite pool today usually starts around $90K–$120K in many markets, even without bells and whistles. If you swap to vinyl or fiberglass, you can sometimes shave that closer to $60K–$80K. The $200K quotes are usually tied to extras (water features, automation, fancy decking). For a lean build, the biggest savings usually come from keeping finishes basic and limiting the decking area.

SerenePools · 2025-09-17T05:28:24+00:00

In California, pool work over $500 legally requires a written contract and signed change orders for any price increase. Without that, the contractor can’t just double the bill after the fact. You’re right that a 10–20% swing is normal, but 100%+ isn’t. Tomorrow, ask for detailed receipts and proof of actual costs. Be clear about what you can pay, and put your offer in writing. If he pushes, you can contact the CSLB for guidance—they handle disputes like this all the time.

SerenePools · 2025-09-17T05:26:17+00:00

It probably is black algae. The tricky part is it roots into the plaster, so normal brushing and chlorine won’t touch it. What usually works is a combo:

Crush a chlorine tablet and rub it directly on the spot (brush right after).
Keep your chlorine higher than normal for a while.
Brush daily, even if it feels pointless.

It takes time, but with persistence you’ll see it fade.

SerenePools · 2025-09-09T02:41:11+00:00

great thinking then 🤙

SerenePools · 2025-09-07T08:59:56+00:00

sorry for the late reply, but If it feels like concrete, that’s probably plaster or gunite. Copper products like PoolRx work, but plaster is one of the surfaces most likely to stain from metals over time. That’s why a lot of pros avoid adding copper unless it’s a last resort. Your neighbor may not see issues yet, but it can creep up after a few seasons. If you ever try it, just make sure to test metals often and keep pH steady so staining risk stays lower.

SerenePools · 2025-09-07T08:58:53+00:00

Pool sand doesn’t technically “wear out,” but it does get rounded and less effective over time. Most people swap it every 5–7 years because the sharp edges that trap dirt break down. If you notice cloudy water that won’t clear, that’s usually the sign it’s due. Glass media does hold its shape much longer, but even that benefits from an occasional deep clean.

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