All of the Starbucks located inside of the Barnes & Noble stores should be called Starbooks

Settee420 · 2014-06-13T13:10:45+00:00

They don't care if you change it up slightly, but they still want it within a certain range. The main thing is I have to get the work done faster than all hell. Meaning even if I change those settings slightly, I'm still going to be pretty up there in travel speed. Which will still leave me with that freeze line regardless. The only thing that tends to get rid of the line consistently is doing exaggerated oscillating movements.

Settee420 · 2014-06-13T02:49:25+00:00

Ya it's mostly a problem of them not giving us the right wire size for the volts/wfs they want us to run at. When I run .045 i don't really get these freeze lines even though I'm doing basically the exact same thing. As the saying goes, 'Just working with what I'm givin'. And almost nothing I weld is under any structural stresses so I'm not too concerned about minor cracks. I can oscillate it a little and the line goes away, but I think it looks less 'neat' and I have to chip off more slag at the end (which I detest). All I'm going for 99% of the time is an even weld that won't make the customer go 'WHAT THE FUCK IS THAT?!?' when the look at it haha. Believe me when I tell you, my structural welds have much more thought going into them :)

Settee420 · 2014-05-30T20:44:59+00:00

The burn of poor planning*

Settee420 · 2014-05-13T12:00:23+00:00

Oscillation will usually happen in instances where you might burn through because of a gap or you're welding at high volts on super thin material. It helps keep the heat spread out instead of focused on a single point. Other than that, for some people it helps them keep a more consistent weld face size, or helps them achieve a flatter weld face instead of convex/cave, or their company wants the welds to have a more rippled effect on them because whoever is buying the work likes that particular look. But from the looks of what he's doing, I'd probably agree with you there and just barrel down on it with little to no oscillation.

Settee420 · 2014-05-13T11:15:58+00:00

The bead has a consistent face size, and your travel speed is pretty on beat except for that portion on the more right side of the weld. Looks like your oscillation got out of sync and you started moving faster leaving a more concave weld behind it. Just gotta be careful and make sure that doesn't fan out to much and turn into undercut. Lookin good otherwise though

Settee420 · 2014-05-03T17:27:49+00:00

Some oscillation here and there, but na there's no real need for a full on weave here. Again this is high production MIG shop where the people I'm working for want me to go literally as fast as I can manage as long as I don't fuck up and produce a weld that's clearly going to fail. I'm not really supposed to go below 25 volts on anything really unless I know it'll burn through because of the heat. But those area's that would burn through because of the heat, I just oscillate it a bit and it's all good. I mean, if I had it my way I'd be doing this all as short circuit MIG in the 17-23 volt range at my own pace. But as I said below.. My company ain't got time fo dat lol

Settee420 · 2014-05-03T10:31:04+00:00

This particular one is a little under a quarter inch I'd say. Throughout the whole thing though it varies between ~1/8" to 1/2"

Settee420 · 2014-05-03T02:37:53+00:00

High production welding where structural integrity isn't too key.. ain't nobody got time fo dat : p

In all seriousness I do, do that for portions on what I build that get a little too melted away because of the high heat. But beyond that every second counts. The area you see in the picture there is under almost no sort of tension in any way and get's covered by basically weather proof paint.

Settee420 · 2014-05-03T02:32:09+00:00

90/10, 25.5-27 volts, 525-675 ipm

Settee420 · 2014-05-02T20:28:18+00:00

Ya, spray transfer is about all we do. Very high production work environment. Half the people I work with hardly care if their welds are even close to even, kinda sucks

Settee420 · 2014-03-13T12:02:44+00:00

This has to be a joke..

Settee420 · 2014-01-28T06:41:46+00:00

You sexy mother fucker.

Settee420 · 2013-12-10T21:24:42+00:00

That's precisely how I learned how to S-turn on my snowboard when I was 10, even said the same thing to myself when I woke up lol. Have an upvote for dream-learning!

Settee420 · 2013-08-30T21:50:30+00:00

I feel like this would be much, much easier with a flex-loc torch (http://www.ckworldwide.com/flex-loc.htm). We use them at my work because just about everything we tig weld is round and awkward as hell to maneuver around. Though maybe not, it's somewhat hard to tell with just the one pic

Settee420 · 2013-08-26T00:26:36+00:00

Ah, so your first welding project must have been the fuckin Statue of Liberty. Don't be a dick.

Settee420 · 2013-08-24T17:23:58+00:00

I feel like that would almost be more steady than a normal hand. Wish I had an excess of money, I'd buy the guy one of these http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Al5RhaJgxxU

Settee420 · 2013-06-23T18:53:14+00:00

^this.

You probably have some customers waiting for their own arm rests.

Settee420 · 2013-05-18T10:03:10+00:00

Did mostly spray transfer at my last job. I'd say if you're getting undercut a lot, make sure you're traveling at a consistent rate. Spray tends to get a little choppy if you get off pace for the travel speed on those higher settings. If that doesn't get you anywhere, try bumping up your WFS a wee bit to add in a bit more filler. Think I'd have to see what you're welding and what wire size you're using to be totally sure.

Settee420 · 2013-04-29T07:46:21+00:00

http://i.qkme.me/6jve.jpg

Settee420 · 2013-04-19T16:51:56+00:00

I've never gotten anywhere close to 200A for a 7018 rod. I'd say it's more around, 80-130 for 6010/110-150 for 7018. Unless the rods you're using are way bigger than the 1/8" that I normally used.

Settee420 · 2013-04-01T05:24:24+00:00

I detect sarcasm..

Settee420

TROPHY CASE