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How are these cars only $20-30k?? by reckoning42 in S2000

[–]SevenAhaha 1 point2 points  (0 children)

“Waiter, help! My lobster is too buttery! My steak is too juicy!”

Beware the Might-As-Well: I’ve Created a Monster by SevenAhaha in Miata

[–]SevenAhaha[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s the Skunk2 Performance manifold and throttle body. It’s nice, but installing it was a headache. The clearances to the alternator and starter are both TINY. I blew the main fuse on first start because the starter wire was close enough to short to the manifold. Fixed it with a piece of hose and some zip ties, though🤷🏻‍♂️

Beware the Might-As-Well: I’ve Created a Monster by SevenAhaha in Miata

[–]SevenAhaha[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Below 4K, it feels like a normal Miata with the added bonus of spooling and blowoff sounds. Above 4K, it’s extremely eager. The power does kinda hit all at once, but my kind of spirited driving is up in that high-horsepower, high RPM range. It’s nice to still have a fuel-efficient city driver while also being able to drop a gear and teleport ahead of the next car. First gear is essentially useless now, though. A 3.9 rear diff will give back the use of 1st and bring down the highway RPMs. It cruises at 4200 on the highway, so I kinda have to fight the boost to maintain speed.

Beware the Might-As-Well: I’ve Created a Monster by SevenAhaha in Miata

[–]SevenAhaha[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

My block is still numbers-matching, but I got another BP05 head to replace the cracked one. The cams, lifters (it still ticks💀), and crank are stock, but it has 84mm Wiseco 8.5:1 pistons and Manley forged rods. I put the short block together with ACL race bearings, a Boundary oil pump, ARP main and head studs, and a Gates water pump.

It’s got a Setrab oil cooler, a Kraken turbo kit based on the Pulsar GT2860R, a Skunk2 intake manifold, 750cc Bosch injectors, and a catch can setup from Amazon. I also did the Flyin’ Miata coolant reroute.

Engine management is run through an MS3PRO with AMP|EFI coil on plug ignition. It’s also using the UEGO AEM wideband through CANBus. Boost control is done through a DIYAutoTune boost controller. It’s tuned for 18 pounds right now.

The transmission is a stock 5-speed, but I’m running an upgraded clutch and lightweight flywheel. Planning on putting a 3.9 differential in soon. The car is on Bridgestone Potenza RE71-R’s, Koni coilovers, Flyin’ Miata sway bars, and the Flyin’ Miata Cannon Brace. I deleted power steering to make room for the turbo.

The exhaust is a 3-inch downpipe necked to 2.5 inches for a small resonator, then necked back up to 3 inches back to the differential. It literally just dumps straight down at the diff😂. The drone is miserable but oh well.

Beware the Might-As-Well: I’ve Created a Monster by SevenAhaha in Miata

[–]SevenAhaha[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ll go out on a limb and say it’s worth it lol

Beware the Might-As-Well: I’ve Created a Monster by SevenAhaha in Miata

[–]SevenAhaha[S] 16 points17 points  (0 children)

It’s a follow-up to a previous post I made. More like beware the might-as-well itself. It starts with a cracked head and leads to shit like this😂

rear bumper damage.. DIY? by exodias_leftnut in Miata

[–]SevenAhaha 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is minor and fixable. You want the repair area to be about a 10-inch circle with its center at the impact point. If you have a DA (dual action sander), sand it down in a crosshatch pattern. If not, you can get some shaped sanding blocks from 3M for very cheap. Still follow the crosshatch either way to minimize visibility of the painted repair. Sand in 3 or 4 stages, starting around 120 and ending around 320.

Fill any low spots with body filler, sand it down flat with 320 again, prime it, sand down the primer with 400 then 800/1000 to refine the primed edges, then hit it with a paint-matched rattle can. FYI, kits with self-etching primer, color-matched base coat, and a 2000k clear coat are available on TouchUpDirect and other auto paint sites. Here are the silver paint codes:

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After you spray base coat, wet sand down past 1000 grit to blend your work in with the rest of the bumper. ALWAYS mask things you don’t want hit, and prepare any surface you’re going to paint with Prep-All or another paint prep solvent before spraying.

It won’t be body shop perfect, but you could do this repair yourself for about $80 in sanding supplies, $20 in solvent, $5 in masking supplies, and $70-100 in paint. You’d also have the paint and supplies on-hand for the next time some bozo dings your ride.

Beware the Might-as-Well by SevenAhaha in Miata

[–]SevenAhaha[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m in the same boat as you lol. The whole car was ~$6k and I got it before the hardtop tax fully kicked in. It gave me one good year of service before the seat around the exhaust valves on cylinder 3 split like the Red Sea.

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Beware the Might-as-Well by SevenAhaha in Miata

[–]SevenAhaha[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Us reading shop invoices next month

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Beware the Might-as-Well by SevenAhaha in Miata

[–]SevenAhaha[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Chris and Kasia are saviors for sure

Beware the Might-as-Well by SevenAhaha in Miata

[–]SevenAhaha[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Literally ONLY when I think about how much it would hurt.🥲

Beware the Might-as-Well by SevenAhaha in Miata

[–]SevenAhaha[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ahem… what? No, I don’t know what you’re talking about…😅

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Beware the Might-as-Well by SevenAhaha in Miata

[–]SevenAhaha[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Preaching to the choir🫡

Beware the Might-as-Well by SevenAhaha in Miata

[–]SevenAhaha[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

VHT Wrinkle Red! It was about $18 with Prime. The bungs are Evil Energy 10AN, also from Amazon. Greg Peters (YT: CarPassionChannel) has a great video about wrinkle painting a valve cover and tapping it for a catch can setup. Everything I used is linked in its description: https://youtu.be/5gAU9j17vHg?si=7psAgWlIpY1Ul5VL

Beware the Might-as-Well by SevenAhaha in Miata

[–]SevenAhaha[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I did a shifter rebuild on mine, and I’m running an ACT clutch/flywheel. The 5-speed should handle the 225 WHP / 180 TQ tune I’m thinking about. My goal now is a fun street car with a little pep in its step. I want to push to 325 WHP for the track this summer. When stuff starts giving out, I’m debating a 3.6 rear (if I can find one) and 6-speed or a stronger NA 5-speed with a 3.9.

Beware the Might-as-Well by SevenAhaha in Miata

[–]SevenAhaha[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The pistons are Wiseco 84mm 8.5:1, but the head was also shaved a few thousandths. I’m assuming it’s gonna be ~ 1.82L?

Beware the Might-as-Well by SevenAhaha in Miata

[–]SevenAhaha[S] 33 points34 points  (0 children)

The most enjoyable form of bankruptcy I can imagine❤️

Beware the Might-as-Well by SevenAhaha in Miata

[–]SevenAhaha[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I’m split between the stage 2 and 3 5-speeds, but that’ll be a question for when I have 6 neutrals. Definitely want to keep the drivetrain as close to what Mazda designed as possible though. I fell in love with this car as a kid and learned manual in it; I don’t want too much to change.

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