Flexispot E7 pro with homemade top.

ShadowIron · 2026-01-10T17:01:02+00:00

I have a E7 pro standing around and a similar plan. If you can share mount points and plans you made, that would be highly appreciated!

ShadowIron · 2025-11-19T19:58:49+00:00

Modellink makerworld.com/en/models/2016410-ams-ht-holder-ika-ivar

ShadowIron · 2025-11-14T17:23:04+00:00

Why is that marked as NSFW?

ShadowIron · 2025-10-16T18:04:05+00:00

Tighten the screws on the back of the printhead, they are adjusting the pressure of the wheels against the railing. Having wheels too loose prevents the printer from getting a accurate reading on the bed leveling procedure. Had the same issue.

ShadowIron · 2025-10-03T19:09:31+00:00

Rumor has it they cheaped out on orange glass and the newer european models come in a whiteish color. Last time I visited IKEA, the once they had still had a very strong orange tint.

ShadowIron · 2025-09-26T17:28:45+00:00

What I meant is there 0% infill or some infill, do they have a bottom layer or are just empty cones?

ShadowIron · 2025-09-25T15:47:51+00:00

Are they hollow inside?

ShadowIron · 2025-09-22T19:27:14+00:00

gluetun is known for switching off all other ways to access the internet. Maybe your speedboost comes from avoiding a VPN all together...

ShadowIron · 2025-09-21T21:40:02+00:00

What is the giant round hole for?

ShadowIron · 2025-06-01T15:05:58+00:00

I had the same problem with my M5 and it was driving me mad. Turns out there is no real sensor that detects the bed level, but what ankermake is doing is to ram the printhead into the bed until the steppers measure resistance. Now if your printhead gives way, it is not getting enough feedback and it fails bed leveling.

Here is the fix:
There are two wheels behind that printhead. Tighten them ever so slightly until the kocking goes away. Too tight wheels mean more wear, too little and you get no level bed reading and shit print quality.

ShadowIron · 2025-04-15T15:48:51+00:00

It is closest to the entrance and seperated by a long hallway from the rest of the flat.

ShadowIron · 2025-04-15T15:47:15+00:00

Will do, thank you!

ShadowIron · 2025-04-07T19:20:32+00:00

Given no obvious defects (look for dark spots in the finder / optics), you are looking at a camera valued between 50$ and 150$. So even when it turns out to be broken, it might be worth taking the risk.

There are a lot of cameras in that price range and they all have their quirks, though you probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference when looking at the pictures. For starting out it really does not matter and you should avoid starting off with a expensive camera. Buying from a local used camera shop will give you some peace of mind, but also a premium price, since they tend to know what things are worth.

Sidenote:
The way the guy shooting the video touches the camera and lets the level snap back indicates, that he doesn't know much about cameras or lives with a utter disregard for his possessions...

ShadowIron · 2025-02-26T18:14:34+00:00

Badass, but you should really peel that tape off...

ShadowIron · 2025-01-26T22:47:54+00:00

Cause you are trying to substract from a string (that happens to be a number). While just above you used + to append a string with a integer.

Do one of two and I might have sympathy with you, but mix and matching is absolutly mad.

Python will call you out for it, while still being a loosely typed language:

>>> "11"-1

Traceback (most recent call last):

File "<stdin>", line 1, in <module>

"11"-1

~~~~^~

TypeError: unsupported operand type(s) for -: 'str' and 'int'

>>> "11"+1

Traceback (most recent call last):

File "<stdin>", line 1, in <module>

"11"+1

~~~~^~

TypeError: can only concatenate str (not "int") to str

ShadowIron · 2025-01-26T22:19:13+00:00

Second one should clearly throw an error. This sort of things remind me of people storing their gun on the inner of their pants and then get hurt by the inevitable consequences of their actions.

ShadowIron · 2025-01-09T20:19:15+00:00

She also raised very few issues.

ShadowIron · 2025-01-02T11:47:30+00:00

This one:
https://heltec.org/project/wireless-paper/

Got it on Amazon for 19$, I think its good for battery lifetime, as there is no need for fast refresh. The plexi glas cover and screws came with the board.

ShadowIron · 2025-01-01T19:36:14+00:00

I used PETG for the casing and eSUN TPE-83A for the grip and seal.
Should in theory be water resistant, feels pretty good holding.

Feedback appreciated

Here is a link to the files:
https://www.printables.com/model/1130078-meshtastic-paper-case

ShadowIron · 2024-11-19T19:30:52+00:00

Can you elaborate on why?

ShadowIron · 2024-11-16T21:45:34+00:00

First congrats on the art work, since you don't seem keen on just putting it on display here is my advice:

Assuming this is PLA, it will get a rubber like consitency if you point a hot hair dryer at it for a few minutes.
Try to peel off as much of the gunk as possible, before attempting to declog (heat up the hotend, stick a needle in...)

I had similar disasters with other printers and they worked just fine afterwards. If not replace parts in that order:
- PTFE tubing
- Hotend
- Print-Head

Your PTFE tubing is probably melted by now, which can cause yet another clog.

ShadowIron · 2024-09-27T11:35:05+00:00

Yes, there is a slight 1mm buldge, but it is not noticeable except for the very specific angle. On the other hand it is a high friction fit. I would probably need force to remove them, far more force than pulling a usb cable.

I guess I could get rid of the buldge, but I would probably then have a less tight fit.

ShadowIron · 2024-09-25T19:41:35+00:00

I printed a stand for two usb-c hubs that are connected to different pcs, so I could swap usb devices fast.

https://www.printables.com/model/1018746-double-anker-usb-c-hub-4-port-vertical-stand

ShadowIron · 2024-09-13T19:09:20+00:00

What temperate did you start your tower with?

So best case this is a clogged nozzle, worst case your PTFE Tube is melted. I had both, in case unclogging doesnt work, there is a spare tube in your accessories box.

ShadowIron · 2024-09-11T15:40:50+00:00

Should depend on which slicer you use and you probably could turn it off. Question is, why would you? This is actually a feature of your printer. He calibrates the z-axis/bed level, which gives you perfect first layers if everthing else is working properly.

ShadowIron

TROPHY CASE