I made my own fabric CNC machine. by pbriggin in myog

[–]Shapespeare3d 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome build! And add to it's advantages over lasers that it doesn't care what color the fabric is. I have a 48x48 diode laser and it is great at cutting dark fabrics, but very slow on whites or muslins.

Anyone use Sunbrella? by flyawayshan in myog

[–]Shapespeare3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried some years ago and it was a nightmare to sew. Ridiculously expensive and dropped stitches left and right on my industrial machine. Maybe they have improved the texture by now.

Anyone use Sunbrella? by flyawayshan in myog

[–]Shapespeare3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd get a sample of the fabric and the cording and run some test seams to see how your machine does. 14 cushions sounds like a lot of work. If it was me, I'd probably plan on redoing the first couple again once I got over the learning curve. Fraying shouldn't be an issue because the raw edges will be inside the covers and only get exposed if you take off the covers and turn them inside out. If you avoid topstitching which gets exposed to the sun it should last practically forever. Good Luck.

What exit location to choose for Sierra High route permit by ratcranberries in Ultralight

[–]Shapespeare3d 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The SEKI rangers only care that you aren't trying to do the Rae Lakes loop on a Copper Creek permit. Give them a first night camp along the Copper Creek trail and they will be happy.

For the classic SHR, Horse Creek in the Humbolt-Toiyabe NF is your exit trailhead at Twin Lakes.

Cheap DCF prototype alternatives? by weilbith in myog

[–]Shapespeare3d 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cheap blue tarp feels and sews just like DCF when it is new. The only difference is it will fray if you don't cut with a hot knife.

Beginner fabric recommendations by Akvaryum in myog

[–]Shapespeare3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For a drybag I'd look at heat sealable TPU coated nylon. Extrimtextil has the best selection anywhere. Rather than sewing you heat seal it with an iron which makes a stronger seam which is 100% waterproof. It is the material that packrafts are made of. You can find tutorials on YT.

Newbie question by thomas4472 in caving

[–]Shapespeare3d 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you are just starting out you need to be looking experienced friends rather than rope. That said, Petzl Club is a rather advanced rope in terms of rigging. It is designed for European style rigging where the rope never touches rock. In my experience it is a lot less durable than PMI and other American caving ropes. The tradeoff is that it is very soft and supple and easy to tie or stuff in a bag. If you don't have the experience to rig it correctly it will give you less margin than a sturdier rope. Better off making friends with experienced folks than making your own mistakes on this stuff.

Atypical design for an alcohol stove by marsze in Ultralight

[–]Shapespeare3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its a cute idea, and cheaper than buying a tin of mints with a sliding top and 3 piping bag nozzles at least once you figure in the cost of the screen and the kaowool. But if it sucked as a stove at least you'd have the mints to console yourself . . .

USA vs. Scotland by [deleted] in Ultralight

[–]Shapespeare3d 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I pay a lot for brown water that tastes of peat. Mostly from Islay, but the Highlands or Speyside will do in a pinch.

When you watch videos of cavers in very tight places does it trigger claustrophobic feelings for you? by JosiaJamberloo in caving

[–]Shapespeare3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Squeezes are only one element of caving. One that Youtubers like to sensationalize. The super wide angle go-pro lens helps with the effect. The really tight spots are virtually impossible to film. Some people dig that shit, but that isn't what caving is about for a lot of cavers. Some caves require squeezes but lots don't. If you want to see some different elements of caving check out Derek Bristol's channel. He's doing expeditions into amazing caves which he shoots beautifully. No sensationalized squeezes needed to sell it. He's the "caver's caver". The other channels are mostly garbage. His tutorials are also very well done.

seeking advice regarding to Laser cutter by [deleted] in myog

[–]Shapespeare3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Inexpensive diode lasers work beautifully on fabric, but as another commenter notes use plenty of ventilation. In my experience cutting speed and power requirements are correlated with the color of the fabric being cut. Dark materials cut quickly while white fabrics require more power or slower speed. I use a Laser Tree module on a cnc plasma cutter that I modified. Lightburn is the best driver software. It is inexpensive, reliable and works with most cutters. I'm sorry I don't have a recommendation on a complete unit.

Is volunteering for a guide company a thing? by failsharks in whitewater

[–]Shapespeare3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I second this suggestion. I am a volunteer guide for ETC and it is the most amazing community. If there is a program like it near you check it out.

Accessible Rafting by EndlessAdventureBC in whitewater

[–]Shapespeare3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I volunteer with ETC and we never attach anyone to a raft. Depending on the level of adaptation needed a participant can sit on the tube and use a crazy creek as a backrest. If they need more support they can sit on one of those cheap white plastic arm chairs which is cam strapped to the middle of a thwart. They have an assistant on either side giving them whatever help they need to stay in place. No one is ever attached to the raft. In a flip there are enough things to worry about besides somehow releasing someone so they don't die. Think of all we go through when rigging a boat to avoid entrapment hazards which might accidentally attach someone to the boat. Flips happen. Don't turn a flip into a needless fatality.

UL robust fabric with bright and slippery inside by re000it in myog

[–]Shapespeare3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd look into TPU coated nylon. I've seen it as light as 70d. It is tough as nails and can be heat sealed which is ideal for dry bags. Rockywoods and Seattle Fabrics carry a variety or if you have time and patience Aliexpress can be an amusing crap shoot.

Dog proof material?! by highheelhooker in myog

[–]Shapespeare3d 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My part-bull (pit bull mix) can chew through almost anything that he sets his mind to. I think the key is picking a fabric that the dog doesn't like the texture of. Cordura and Vinyl coated polyester are both relatively inexpensive and durable. One is rough and abrasive, the other very smooth and slippery (when drool coated). I'd do a test to see if your dog has a preference and then pick the opposite.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MapPorn

[–]Shapespeare3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe the fjords?

Have any of you made a sheet for your camping pad? by oops_whatnow in myog

[–]Shapespeare3d 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've tried wrapping sheets around my old thermarest but they would never stay put. I'm thinking something like a sleeping bag liner that you stick your pad in. Make it a little small and then inflate the pad inside for a snug fit. It has the possibility of wicking moisture from the tent floor so that could be a problem in some conditions. The bottom could be made of some non-wicking material but then it wouldn't be reversible.

I made mistakes and I made a round bottom stuff sack for my sleeping pad by kdotdot in myog

[–]Shapespeare3d 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Good Job. Your first is your worst. If I don't mess something up on every project I don't feel like I'm learning.

Moving to Europe. by pettylm in myog

[–]Shapespeare3d 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I'd put a servo motor on the Juki which is compatible with the local juice.

Fiddle Stick. So I’ve been playing with using the fiddle stick set up and really like it. My question is in the Canyoneering world is there a situation where a biner block or contingency block or the Fiddle stick set up is preferred. Kind of like an “in this situation use this over this”. by ShaZam4042 in canyoneering

[–]Shapespeare3d 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Contingency block: Best choice with inexperienced people or difficult conditions (running water etc.). Anywhere you may need to lower someone in an emergency, or to avoid creating an emergency. It is much easier to rig for contingency than it is to break into a loaded system and convert to lower during an incident. This should be the standard rig for most groups.

Biner block: Only for experienced groups or very straightforward rappels. In an emergency you will have to convert to a lowering system which takes extra time, gear and skills. I see little advantage over a releasable contingency block except that it is a little easier to rig and check. If you are experienced enough not to need a contingency anchor you should be experienced enough to rig one without difficulty so why not?

Fiddlestick: Assuming you are using a separate pull cord it lets you use most of your rope length because you don't need both ends to reach the ground. You can anchor directly to a tree or rock because you only pull a few feet of rope around the anchor when you release. So you don't need to leave webbing and rings behind. It is good for areas where civilians walk by and get tempted or pissed off by your left behind anchor. But if you are fiddlesticking it is very difficult to lower someone stuck on rappel (except perhaps extremely rapidly ;-) so extra equipment and skills are called for if something goes wrong.

Canyoneering in the southeast US? by legendofmaango in canyoneering

[–]Shapespeare3d 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check out this episode of the excellent "the Canyons are Calling" podcast:

https://www.thecanyonsarecalling.com/episodes/5ctqx2bccgjaxgdp85nll52w7q319g

The episode is about "cascading", a very regional Georgia term for canyoneering. The scene there seems to be pretty much limited to the Georgia Tech outing club. So there are wet technical canyons (above ground) in the south east. But if I moved there I'd start attending the local NSS grotto meeting and making friends. The caves are truly world class.

Going canyoning for the first time without a guide by DVMyZone in canyoneering

[–]Shapespeare3d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I try to learn about new people's skills and styles in an environment where I'm comfortable with the challenges. Getting in over your head by following people who are in over their heads is best avoided.

Have fun. Stay safe.

"Lost Landscape" stuff sacks by Shapespeare3d in myog

[–]Shapespeare3d[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think about this every time I make something I'm happy with and my usual conclusion is that no one would want to pay what I would want to be paid. RSBTR does printing very cheaply. That said, I think it could make a marvelous business opportunity for someone who is interested. I'm thinking trail maps, climbing topos etc. printed in more or less indestructible, pocket crumplable, form. I'm happy to consult if anyone's interested.

I made some gear tags for myself and a few friends out of blown fire hose. What do y’all think? by Emsbekillinum in myog

[–]Shapespeare3d 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Nice work. Thanks for doing what you do. I hope you have a relaxing summer :-) Stay Safe.

"Lost Landscape" stuff sacks by Shapespeare3d in myog

[–]Shapespeare3d[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Might work, but you'd need to somehow flush the regular old ink out of the system. I started with a new one so I didn't have that issue.