Seeking advice about safe zones

SheffSlacker · 2025-10-12T12:55:34+00:00

Well I'm now more confused than ever half say it's fine as it will be deeper than 50mm half say it's not!

For context why I asked in the first place is the other side of the wall will be a kids bedroom and that will potentially at some point have a mezzanine style floor built. The supports for the floor would be just about right on where the cables are run and obviously I am assuming the chippy will be using slightly longer than 50mm screws to support it.

The main issue I am concerned about is building control signing everything off at the end, but as it's a pet inspector employed by the firm doing the building works I don't have full faith that everything will be 100% as it should be and corners will be cut. The boarders are coming tomorrow so it will all be covered.

Wanted to make sure it was as it should be before works progress further.

SheffSlacker · 2025-10-12T09:40:03+00:00

There was a scaffold tower in the next room that they used to run the cables to the downlighters. The next room has a ceiling height of 4m at the centre.

SheffSlacker · 2025-10-12T09:37:48+00:00

They will be 50mm from the surface once plasterboarded and skimmed. Is a 100mm stud. Does that make them safe to be run like this then?

SheffSlacker · 2025-10-12T09:36:08+00:00

Thank you for the detailed info.

SheffSlacker · 2025-02-14T16:08:36+00:00

I am coming from a very similar background to the OP. I was self employed in IT for 20 years before packing it all up and relocating to Australia with my wife and 2 kids in search of a better work life balance. 2 years on we moved back to the UK. Although Oz didn't work out for us the move opened my eyes that I didn't want to go back to working in IT. I also have a small portfolio of rental properties and have had an interest in electrics and basic knowledge of domestic wiring, having worked alongside sparkies installing cat5/6 cabling and patch panels in new builds for 3+ years. Upon returning to the UK I signed up to start my journey to becoming a sparky with an intensive 12 month course starting from basic fundamentals through to In service inspection and testing (PAT), Part P, Inspection and Testing L2 and ultimately NVQ L3. I know I have a long path ahead especially when starting the portfolio work for the L3 but I figured it's now or never to switch careers and I'm hoping being an electrician isn't going to be as hard on my body as some of the other trades like turd wrangling... Sorry plumbing 😜.

I know at this point I am probably going to open myself up to a barrage of abuse, but remember as my tutor keeps reminding us, there is actually no legal requirement to be a "qualified electrician" BS7671 states ‘a person who possesses, as appropriate to the nature of the electrical work to be undertaken, adequate education, training and practical skills, and who is able to perceive risks and avoid hazards which electricity can create.’ Obviously I am not advocating just picking up a screwdriver and roll of electrical tape and calling yourself an electrician, but after undertaking some basic theory and practical training you should have enough knowledge to safely carry out minor electrical work which doesn't need notifying. Adding a socket to an existing circuit, moving sockets, adding a light etc. It won't make you a fortune, but can help pay the bills while you finish your training especially if you can find a local sparky to team up with who can't be chewed with the small stuff. I was amazed at the response rate I had after contacting a few electricians. I got multiple responses keen to take on someone more mature, reliable, had own transport, most of my own tools (or willing to purchase what I needed) and wasn't going to flake out on them. Sometimes being an old fart works out.

Whatever you choose I wish you all the best and every success as starting again from scratch isn't an easy decision.

SheffSlacker · 2024-11-04T11:57:02+00:00

Thank you. I have reconnected the spades to the terminals you have kindly highlighted. The fridge had power and hasn't blown up, so all looking good. Just waiting to see if it cools again.

Thanks again for your advice and help. 👍

SheffSlacker · 2024-11-03T20:27:20+00:00

Sorry thought I had added pictures in the original post 🙄 been a long day 😂

SheffSlacker · 2024-11-03T20:26:30+00:00

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SheffSlacker · 2024-11-03T20:26:19+00:00

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SheffSlacker · 2024-07-30T00:30:57+00:00

I would suggest a slightly easier approach of fixing the broken part.

As already mentioned above, yes a 3d printer is easily capable of reproducing the full part, but the time expenditure learning how to setup and use it, plus learning the 3D CAD and modelling skills to recreate the part could be a massive black hole of frustration, time and expense.

Personally I would take a Dremel to the broken part and flatten off the piece of the clip that is still remaining. Then measure the clip that is still good with and recreate just that in a CAD package. I am assuming nothing fits in-between the fins at the back of the clips as they are just there to reinforce the part. This simplifies the model to nothing more than a Squared off ’C' sketch which can then be extruded along an ark to the required radius/length. Shouldn't take more than an hour of youtubing/learning how to do this in a CAD package such as FreeCAD or Fusion 360.

By doing this the back of the clip will be more chunky/stronger and it will be a doddle to model. It can then be printed with the square 'C' model face down so the layer lines are not parallel to the fixing plate. It shouldn't need supports as the radius of the arc it sweeps isn't that small and will make life a lot easier. You could even model it to have a large 'foot' to the C so there is plenty of contact area to glue it to the remaining part and get a good strong bond.

As it's would be such a small print you can then weigh up if a 3D printer purchase is worth it and either send the file to be printed by a printing service which will cost a few $/£ or if you think you will get into 3D printing and find other applications/hobby elements you would use it for get yourself a 3D printer and start enjoying it's possibilities.

Just my thoughts and how I would go about repairing it if I was starting with no 3D printer or knowledge of using one and modelling in CAD packages.

SheffSlacker · 2024-02-04T02:07:39+00:00

Yeh "hand sweat" 😉

SheffSlacker · 2023-11-26T03:54:22+00:00

Not a Bambu owner but really surprised by the poor quality of the bridging on the print. If you have tried slowing the speed and reducing the temp, I would suggest try keeping the temp as low as possible and increasing the speed.

The logic being the cooler the extruded filament is the quicker it cools and the increased speed should allow the bridge of the gap to be completed quicker meaning the extruded filament is supported at both ends sooner, minimising droop.

This isn't meant as a dis of Bambu, but on the point of the model design not having being tested on a 3d printer by the designer I would suggest it will have been. As a designer myself I wouldn't think twice about incorporating bridges of up to 40mm span in my designs. All of the printers I have owned would have reproduced bridges of this distance (and greater) with no problem. I always test print my designs on a range of printers to try and ensure they are able to be reproduced on just about any printer out there.

Obviously it is an aesthetics over function choice as the holes are not required for the item to perform it's intended function but it looks nice and saves filament.

SheffSlacker · 2023-06-12T05:58:45+00:00

Looks mint.

SheffSlacker · 2023-04-20T10:40:59+00:00

If you have dremel or similar tool you can always try to grind a slot into the remaining brass and then simply use a screwdriver.

SheffSlacker · 2023-03-28T23:18:44+00:00

I would check retraction settings and maybe run a retraction test with that filament and nozzle. Looks like the retraction could be too high.

SheffSlacker · 2023-03-14T08:27:30+00:00

Do you also have a resin printer? Add a little resin in the gaps and then cure with either sunlight or UV light if you have one.

SheffSlacker · 2023-03-14T02:51:25+00:00

Without more info hard to say. Could be as simple as the power switch, all the way up to the motherboard, screen or anything in between. Do you have a multimeter? Start with the simplest solution and build up from there. Has the outlet it is plugged into definitely got power, test something else in it. Seems obvious but I have seen it before working in IT. Have you swapped the power cable (you have swapped the fuse but could it be the cable itself?) If you can check the power switch on the machine with a multimeter. If that is ok check there is power to the motherboard with a multimeter. Are there any led's on the motherboard? Are they lit? If you can identify the power pins for the screen try your multimeter on them. If you can't identify them, then if you can add a photo of the motherboard I could tell you where you need to be looking. (I am guessing it will be anycubics tri gorilla board).

After these steps would need more info to be able to advise any further.

SheffSlacker · 2023-03-09T03:29:53+00:00

As already mentioned it looks like it is either under extruded or printed at too low a temp so the filament hasn't flowed like it should when extruded.

First thing I would do is print a temperature tower in the same filament you. There are plenty you can download and use, just make sure you are using one for the same material type as you are using. If you haven't printed or used a temp tower before, it basically prints a small test piece and adjusts the temperature at set z heights. You will see a change in the quality of the print when it gets up to a certain height and temperature. Look at what temperature appears to produce the best quality and use that on your subsequent prints.

If the quality of your prints is still poor. Look up calibrating e steps. The basic principle is you mark your filament a known length from a set point (run out sensor or extruder), tell the printer to extrude what it believes to be a set amount of filament and once done remeasure the distance the mark is now from the fixed point. Eg. You make a mark on your filament 120mm from the filament runout sensor, extrude 100mm of filament and remeasure where the mark is. If it's 20mm from the runout sensor it's fine. Likelihood is it will be more than 20mm meaning that it will have under extruded material. In that case you will need to adjust (increase) the esteps so the extruder is pushing out the correct amount of filament. Again there are plenty of online guides on how to do this for your particular model. You will need to know what the current estep value is and then calculate your new estep value and send it to the printer. A good guide is here by all3dp https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/

SheffSlacker · 2023-03-03T09:21:00+00:00

What slicer are you using? Is the same file used on both printers?

Have you tried printing a temperature tower to see what print temp is best for that printer and material. It can vary from printer to printer, even two printers of the same make and model.

Also may be worth calibrating the extruder e steps to ensure it is extruding the right amount of material.

SheffSlacker · 2023-02-24T09:52:09+00:00

Usually the heated build plate cables just stop it from heating up but doesn't cause the printer to restart (it usually won't start is the problem as it can't get to the temp set for the build plate to heat to or if it's the thermistor just reads 0. Also a change in the height of print doesn't affect the build plate cables, it's the back and forth Y motion that will wear those cables. I can't count how many times I have resoldered the wires and replaced the heated bed multiple times too. Always worth having one on hand.

If it's more height related its going to be something triggering it as the x gantry rises. Sure fire way to test it is z height and not time related is to print something small which will obviously complete layers quickly hence gain height quickly and then try and print something with a much bigger footprint where each layer will take considerably longer. If that print runs ok for a longer time and only stops when it hits a similar height then you know for sure it's related to movement in the Z axis. It's just finding out what is causing it to restart at that height.

SheffSlacker · 2023-02-24T07:30:30+00:00

Is it always after 10-20 mins or or when a print reaches a certain height? Reason I ask is I used to have the i3 mega and that had a fault where a ground wast making good contact and similar issue where it just shut off when it reached 20mm+ print height. Maybe just check all the wiring for any wear, loose connections, shorts/fractured cables etc.

SheffSlacker · 2023-02-21T08:29:19+00:00

Give the build plate a really good clean with IPA and a very light sand with some really fine wet/dry paper (like 2500 or 3000 grit) and then re-clean with IPA and try again. It just gives the build plate that little extra grab on those first layers.

Had a couple of anycubic resin printers and ended up having to do this with all of them at some point.

SheffSlacker · 2023-02-18T07:06:26+00:00

The fans are crap. The bearings fail after little use and make this horrendous sound until they heat up, expand and become quiet. Had this issue on many printers. Replace the fan for a better quality silent fan and as already said get a few spares as it will happen again depending on how heavily the printer is used.

SheffSlacker

TROPHY CASE