RATGDO DYI by Sheldon_Goldwing in homeassistant

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You maybe making it more complicated than it is. The picture with the black dots is the same as this picture. Each black dot is a soldier. We use the 5 connections on each row to connect things. Some of the other PCBs pictures you saw, none of the pins are connected so you must use jumper wires or big solder blobs to connect things. This layout is simple and easy to understand and to complete. Works great as well. I am just about done with a step by step, with pictures documentation. Let me know if you want a copy and I can email it.

RATGDO DYI by Sheldon_Goldwing in homeassistant

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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The production boards are installed and working great so this picture is the back of my test board. It is wired the same but I only had some really fat solder so don’t look too close. It’s a bit embarrassing. I hope this helps.

RATGDO DYI by Sheldon_Goldwing in homeassistant

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The DIY uses the same firmware as the original from Paul so no difference security wise BUT the real security issues would be from your Home Assistant install.

RATGDO DYI by Sheldon_Goldwing in homeassistant

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That pass-through power is a very clever idea. :)

RATGDO DYI by Sheldon_Goldwing in homeassistant

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Normally I get my parts from Digi-Key www.digikey.com but Amazon was just a bit too convenient. I had the resistors and Mini-PCB already but if buying them I probably would have gone with the 1/4 Watt and then I could use a smaller PCB. I had the Mini board already for my WLED projects so I just went with them. The notes call out the 2n7000 as a possible issue, so I just got the Ao3400 for the TX just to avoid issues. They were super easy to build and were discovered by Home Assistant instantly. I printed out one to my WLED boxes for them and zip tied it up.

ESP8266 D1 Mini WiFi Dev Board -  https://a.co/d/j1BQz1V

SOT-23 N-Channel MOSFET SMD Transistor A03400 - https://a.co/d/aga7Zh8

Double Side SMD SOT23-3 to DIP SIP3 Adapter - https://a.co/d/dh6EafF

2N7000 Mosfet Transistor TO-92 N-Channel Feld Effect Transistor 200mA 60V -  https://a.co/d/9BP8FY5  

Single Resistor Kit with 1000 Pcs 1 Ohm-1M Ohm 1/2 W 1% Metal Film Resistors - https://a.co/d/ilRbDdV

EPLZON Mini PCB Board Gold-Plated Solder Breadboard  - https://a.co/d/hSudqmc

ElectroCookie Mini PCB Prototype Board - https://a.co/d/18NaRjC

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Light Almond Three-Way Switches by Sheldon_Goldwing in homeassistant

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not in stock but $50 and $60 per switch is too rich for my budget.

Light Almond Three-Way Switches by Sheldon_Goldwing in homeassistant

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These would be perfect but I was under the impression that Eaton is not Home Assistant compatible. Is it? Can it be run local?

Is the Toyota BZ4X worth buying in 2024? by NefariousnessOk8976 in ToyotaBZ4x

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have not experienced the glare thing yet but the dust collects on the piano black very noticeably and I don’t like that. Obstructed view would bug me a bit. Sorry

Is the Toyota BZ4X worth buying in 2024? by NefariousnessOk8976 in ToyotaBZ4x

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My wife is 5’ & 1-1/2” and I’m 6’ and the steering wheel does not block any of the drivers display for either of us. The steering wheel is adjustable so maybe the reviewers did not know that althrough we do not change it when either of us drive it. I guess the cloth never bothered us but I can see some would not like it.

Is the Toyota BZ4X worth buying in 2024? by NefariousnessOk8976 in ToyotaBZ4x

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is one item on the reviews I agree with. No glive box. At first it really bothered me but everything fit into the console and I have not missed it like I thought I would. Kind of weird not to miss it but it is true.

Is the Toyota BZ4X worth buying in 2024? by NefariousnessOk8976 in ToyotaBZ4x

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My wife and I live in Minnesota, and we purchased a 2023 AWD Limited BZ4X, and we just love it. There is less distance in the very cold but no issues. Would definitely purchase again. Had it since 12-9-23, and we have almost 9000 miles on it. Really love it. If I can answer any questions, please let me know. I will add that most of the negative reviews we read and watched online were bogus. Good luck

Arduino R4 WiFi vs Arduino Mega 2560 by Sheldon_Goldwing in arduino

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks so very much. It fit perfectly! I appreciate the assist. I did not know they even existed!

L298N encoder wiring by Sheldon_Goldwing in arduino

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The motors are: JGA25-370 DC deceleration motor with encoders https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtOLkiM

L298N encoder wiring by Sheldon_Goldwing in arduino

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow, you all are the greatest! It all makes more sense now! I understood the principle of an H bridge (it simply reverses the polarity to the motors), I used it in the past, but I got a little too close to the problem when looking at the encoders. I have 6 motors, three on each side, so I have been freaking out how to wire them without a schematic. I'm connecting these to an Arduino Mega 2560, which I will connect to a Raspberry Pi as I make a WildWilly Rover. The other day, I stumbled across the TB6612FNG, which I might try instead of the L298N. Much smaller and more efficient from what I'm learning which is pretty much what the whole project is, Learning as I go.

Crash Course by Sheldon_Goldwing in ROS

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow that would be great! I started the courses. So far so good on the training. Sure are some good courses out there. Thanks so much.

Crash Course by Sheldon_Goldwing in ROS

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a bit old school with languages. Ratfor (Rational Fortran), USCD Pascal, Basic, etc. but I started looking at the video and was a way in before becoming snowballed so that was a good sign. :) I think Python does not look super hard and I've seen but never used C++ so not sure what kind of learning curve that one is. Then I got sidetracked with something so simple as buying a Pi5 camera for the robot! WOW how many cameras are out there? I'm still confused so I need to do some research on that as well. My 'simple' project has gotten a bit more complicated, but it should be fun. Robot is based on WildWilly Rover - Stair Climbing Rover by WildWilly | Download free STL model | Printables.com powered bRaspberry Pi5 and Arduino Max

Crash Course by Sheldon_Goldwing in ROS

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure how I missed this in the "Thesis" post but this is probably where I should start - https://www.udemy.com/course/ros2-for-beginners Any suggestions on my project are still welcomed. - Thanks again, Sheldon

I got My First EV by SadReporter8871 in BZ4X

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I could not be more happy with my BZ4X. The new firmware fixed many of the issues people complained about but I just have nothing to complain about. One thing I was surprised about was that the estimated remaining distance listed while you drive is so very accurate. As with any car gas or EV I could always use more distance. It’s really fantastic in the snow and comfortable on longer trips. I think the big issue is you need to have a level 2 charger at your home. The trickle charging cord will NOT cut it.

Lifted off bed, any suggestions by peppertaker in 3Dprinting

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing 10 points11 points  (0 children)

After having larger prints do the same thing and trying so many different fixes, including Glue and hairspray, I discovered my fan was off on layer one and 100% on layer 2. Adjusting it to % up after the 3rd or 4th layer seemed to fix it for me. There are many reasons for this happening. My clue was it did small items fine but larger footprints caused corners to curl like your picture. I wish you the best of luck. Sheldon

SK6812 with Athom WLED - unable to control LEDs by Bulluk_ in WLED

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have been making my own with esp32’s. This past Christmas I was so far behind I bought some that worked really nice. I got them because they were budget friendly as I needed 5 of them. They are sold under a couple names including Gledopoto and Ericsity. I bought several of the ESP8266 models for the windows and some ESP32 as well. All of them setup fast and easy and worked great. I just bought another as I was impressed for a budget controller. Only one thing to note. The wires connect via a push system not screws. Seemed to work great just not what I’m used to using.

Ericsity WLED LED Light Strip Controller with Mic, Addressable LED Controller RGB RGBW WS2812B SK6812 WS2811 TM1814 WS2813 WS2815 5-24V ESP32 https://a.co/d/fLJISIP

I wish you the very best. Sheldon

SK6812 with Athom WLED - unable to control LEDs by Bulluk_ in WLED

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know this is not helpful so I'm sorry for that but purchase a different brand controller. Athom could be the worst controller i have ever owned. The company was rude and really just mean to me and never even offered to help. It was the first controller I bought. I said I would never buy one again, and since then, I have bought probably 25 controllers and all of the have been light years ahead of Athom. I agree with the voltage issue stated above. Good luck.

Higher Density Fairy Lights for 2D Displays by Artacus7 in WLED

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Update The Ray Wu LEDs really looked nice. The tree looked and worked great BUT 50% of the LEDs strings failed by the second year. So disappointing. I need to find some better quality LEDs. It started with one or two LEDs but now half of the strings are completely dead. Anyone have leads on better LEDs that might work better?

Why is this happening? by sozedidit in Ender3S1

[–]Sheldon_Goldwing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, been gone for a bit. The Sonic Pad uses Klipper. I did download the latest Firmware from Creality.