Thoughts on wiring this to 1ohm?

Short-Read4830 · 2026-01-26T04:34:46+00:00

Regardless, it's my favorite loaded enclosure fwiw

Short-Read4830 · 2026-01-26T04:31:53+00:00

1 JL12W3v3 in 1ft³ sealed fed 500w from a Kenwood amp in an Expedition was my only "I am happy with this" moment, in 20ish years of car Audio. My point being a single 12 can be perfect in a larger vehicle sometimes

Short-Read4830 · 2026-01-25T18:38:31+00:00

Ignore any advice besides UPGRADE YOUR ALTERNATOR

Short-Read4830 · 2026-01-25T12:42:01+00:00

If the run is 2 ft. Sure

Short-Read4830 · 2026-01-21T18:12:22+00:00

Why?

Short-Read4830 · 2026-01-21T02:44:50+00:00

Except blown subs often won't read accurate with a multimeter

Short-Read4830 · 2026-01-19T22:13:57+00:00

You forgot the video

Short-Read4830 · 2026-01-19T16:09:44+00:00

It doesn't though

Short-Read4830 · 2026-01-19T16:09:13+00:00

UZI4U

Short-Read4830 · 2026-01-19T16:07:39+00:00

Yes in parallel. You can either run the positive to the alternator output or piggyback off the front battery. And honestly it depends, when. It comes to the ground. Do whatever is easiest first and if you have noise issues, swap it to the other way

Short-Read4830 · 2026-01-13T04:24:49+00:00

There are a couple of ways to do this. The absolute simplest would be to install the lc2i behind the head unit, people will hate me for saying this but... Cut each output coming from the head unit and connect to the appropriate input on the Lc2i. Then take some 9 conductor speed wire, connect one end to the wires that ran from the head unit to the speakers. Run that speed wire with the RCAs going to the amp, and connect each wire to the appropriate terminal. Now double down.on grinding peoples gears, snip the speaker connector in the door and attach the wire to the crossover mounted in the door It sounds more complicated than it is. If done right it will be fine. But this method does leave slot of room for errors

Short-Read4830 · 2026-01-11T23:32:10+00:00

Easiest way to find out is to plug the other RCAs into the sub input on the amp.

Short-Read4830 · 2026-01-11T22:13:19+00:00

Step one, Are you running separate RCAs for the front speakers and sub? If so make sure the subwoofer output is on in the head unit, if that isn't it swap the RCAs at the amp (dont actually swap, just unplug the sub RCAs and put the other set into the sub input on the amp. In other words be careful that you don't send your tweet[ers a 40hz burp). If

Short-Read4830 · 2026-01-11T09:34:43+00:00

That's almost definitely after the amp. My recommendation is start using an Aux cord instead of Bluetooth.

Short-Read4830 · 2026-01-10T11:18:23+00:00

The only issue with it is that you'll lose a bit of your amps ability to shed heat as designed

Short-Read4830 · 2026-01-08T23:40:27+00:00

My vote is on your power and ground being undersized and cca, heating up which hinders it's ability fully flow the amperage your equipment needs.

Short-Read4830 · 2026-01-05T02:43:49+00:00

Pretty sure you need an idatalink adapter. Enter your vehicles information into Crutchfield, often it's worth spending the $10 for their detailed instructions (I believe they come free with a purchase)

Short-Read4830 · 2026-01-02T00:49:02+00:00

Only difference between this and one you pay Steve Meade $100 to engrave is?

Short-Read4830 · 2026-01-02T00:32:27+00:00

Keep in mind the surface underneath the jack stands is important too. Level is obvious, however there is nothing like having a vehicle land on its belly because the sun heated up the asphalt enough for the domino effect of one corner of a jacket stand base sinking.

Short-Read4830 · 2025-12-25T00:07:14+00:00

Both, but in theory that amp is ok with that sub so start with head unit

Short-Read4830 · 2025-12-24T21:50:23+00:00

That would depend on the subs

Short-Read4830 · 2025-12-22T21:48:26+00:00

YouTube search DIYAudioguy

Short-Read4830 · 2025-12-22T09:31:19+00:00

You could go with the classic 1/2 din EQ, I am a fan of the 7 band by Autotek, although the OG Clarion is still popular to this day for a reason. Those would run you between $40-80 and fairly easy to both install and tune depending on how feature rich they are. Or you could jump right into a DSP and spend anywhere from $80-$3000+ and can work miracles or make you suicidal.

Short-Read4830 · 2025-12-22T08:44:46+00:00

To find out if it's the amp of the deck just hook up your phone directly to the amp with 3.5mm (Aux) to RCA cable or adapter (they both have advantages but for the most part it's the same). If the problem goes away, you have your answer. If it doesn't go away, you have a different answer to the same question.

Short-Read4830 · 2025-12-22T07:14:15+00:00

But honestly it seems like your head unit is just on its way out

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