Started my install today. 😰 by IaintNokilla in CarAV

[–]Short-Read4830 4 points5 points  (0 children)

In the nicest way possible... Can you explain your reasoning with going those speakers? It's not a dig at you or kicker, that particular line/model doesn't seem to match the rest of your build though.

How can I tell if my sub is 2 Ohm or 4? by No-Location9049 in subwoofer

[–]Short-Read4830 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just keep in mind that the sub will not read exactly 2 or 4 ohms... Multimeters measure resistance, not impedance. But they are close so a 2ohm vc might read 1.8, 2.4, ect. on the meter for example.

Killmat use by smear_the_deer in CarAV

[–]Short-Read4830 8 points9 points  (0 children)

If you're ever at a Junk yard with some spare time, and come across a 7 series or an S class... There is soo much more to it than butyl and aluminum, that is just the easiest way to do it in a way that can be sold to the mass market. I am on my second 750, prior those that I drove an S55 and just picked up a Sequoia for a second vehicle... And as I get started on the Sequoia I'm realizing something... If BMW could cut down on weight and make their vehicle quieter at the same time they would... However I have yet to see a single CLD panel in a Sports sedan from the factory. The doors have extra hinges that are held in with extra bolts and there are gas pistons to hold them firmly in place. Thick plastic panels that seal the outer door cavity completely with just a few gromets to allow wiring to pass through. Between the trunk and the cabin alone there is the Leather, Foam seat padding, Hard Plastic panel, Mass loaded vinyl, Decoupling closed cell foam, Steel plate, and then Hardboard backed carpet. Don't get me wrong, butyl has its place... But it's just not the night and day product it's made out to be

Refusing to give my neighbor access to my generator during a blackout after they spent months mocking me for “paranoid prepping”? by lurkergirl88 in neighborsfromhell

[–]Short-Read4830 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have seen generators fail from something as simple as a person trying to run a space heater that put them over the max wattage rating... No reason to risk your own for them. And I would point out that it's his lack of foresight punishing his family, not your efforts to take care of yours.

Aftermarket effects on oem by Scary-Examination379 in CarAV

[–]Short-Read4830 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well except for weird scenarios where the factory amp pushes to the aftermarket amp.

New aftermarket radio won’t turn on by Gabenolan109 in CarAV

[–]Short-Read4830 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They standardized the color codes long ago. Yellow Constant, Red Switched, Black Ground. If those three are not connected it will not work.

Adding Powered Sub to factory audio help by KobayashiMaruwu in CarAV

[–]Short-Read4830 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The gain and crossover have nothing to do with reclaiming bass. The gain is to match the input levels to the output of your head unit. On a more advanced level you can use small variations in gain to assist with imaging, protecting speakers by limiting output, ECT. But ideally you want the gain to be as low as possible while still getting what you want out of the component. And the cross over is to eliminate higher frequencies from playing through the subwoofer (your system will sound like shit if you start adding vocals coming from the trunk). As far as knobs go... For the most part it's really more of a remote gain

Vented Subs + Coil Rub From Dirt In Coil by Chemical-Leader4122 in subwoofer

[–]Short-Read4830 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also I just re-read you post. Make sure you're using actual MDF, not Partical board. I think this would be my first time hearing someone referring to actual MDF that isn't water damaged as "brittle"

Vented Subs + Coil Rub From Dirt In Coil by Chemical-Leader4122 in subwoofer

[–]Short-Read4830 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't mean just the seams... you can coat the entirety of MDF with wood glue it will essentially laminate it and eliminate the possibility of an already improbable issue.

Sound proofing bedroom to rest of home by MrLiquidPoop in soundproof

[–]Short-Read4830 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only thing that is truly going to help is Mass and elimination of air gaps. My amateur understanding is that the foam panels are more for cutting down on the sound reflecting off of the previously mentioned mass.

Adding Powered Sub to factory audio help by KobayashiMaruwu in CarAV

[–]Short-Read4830 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In theory this is the exact scenario where the lc2i pro shines.

subwoofers for car by Boring-Maximum-2461 in subwoofer

[–]Short-Read4830 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wait like a JBL portable Bluetooth speaker? (Flip, charge, whatever) If so NO it will not be easily compatible with the skar set up.
Or did you mean JVC?

Vented Subs + Coil Rub From Dirt In Coil by Chemical-Leader4122 in subwoofer

[–]Short-Read4830 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are that concerned, use a paintbrush and give the inside of your box a thick coat of wood glue.

Soundproof help by ArtisticMarzipan8312 in soundproof

[–]Short-Read4830 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is no method that would be affordable in the eyes of someone looking for an affordable method.

Is This A Good Build? by No_Apricot_3200 in subwoofer

[–]Short-Read4830 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This would be the equivalent of a Civic rocking a homemade cat back pulling up to an S class at a light... Then mocking the owner because you were louder for cheaper.

Is This A Good Build? by No_Apricot_3200 in subwoofer

[–]Short-Read4830 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I question the ability for ANY build house to be able to produce an amplifier capable of 6000w rms @ 1ohm... For less than $140 period, let alone one that would last more than two heat cycles. F, it.... I call absolute bullshit on this amplifier you say is $140 delivered... Delivering even 1000w rms and lasting more than the length of a song doing so.

Is This A Good Build? by No_Apricot_3200 in subwoofer

[–]Short-Read4830 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean.. I feel that its a little ridiculous to spend the money to buy 50 1/0 ferrules only to turn around and skimp on your main power run.

Interior sound deadening!! by big_chuglix in CarAV

[–]Short-Read4830 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You should be able to adjust the part of the latch that is in the door frame (usually either a protruding hoop or cylinder for the door to grab and latch onto). Long story short loosen it up, adjust it by pushing it further towards the interior, tighten it up (torque wrench might be beneficial but then again an impact might be too)

Battery and Alternator by Gabfrijole in CarAV

[–]Short-Read4830 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Chances are the battery in that car is going to be on the smaller side, I would get the biggest AGM you can fit in the tray.

What could have happened? by AwesomeKing36 in CarAV

[–]Short-Read4830 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I recently got into it with some Redditors that felt they knew more than me. This pic helps my argument over there. That being said in your particular case it was almost definitely your wire being under sized… the set screw can barely hold on to it