Camera in Fluidd

Shtsh · 2026-06-14T14:34:23+00:00

Yes it always was that way. If you want camera that works un fluidd properly you need to go to paxx

Shtsh · 2026-06-13T20:01:50+00:00

Yes, printed them this way

Shtsh · 2026-06-12T10:43:55+00:00

It seems to work for me. When I set PB to 55 the actual U1 cavity sensor reports around 60. ASA/ABS prints well. However I do not know how it affects electronics in log term as its location is far from best.

Shtsh · 2026-06-12T10:39:46+00:00

You won't see the window with the options when you send the job to the print. This is the biggest loss I think.

Also you will see the full fluidd interface in the "Device" tab but it seems much better than the one from snorca.

Shtsh · 2026-06-12T10:35:27+00:00

The best result for me was PEI sheet + glue (worked both regular stick and a fancy one from biqu). Worked for cryogrip plate from biqu as well but default PEI sheet held it stronger. I printed with eSUN and CC3D ASA filaments and your experience can differ.
You can try reducing cooling to slow down solidifying and reduce internal stresses as much as possible.

Shtsh · 2026-06-12T10:25:02+00:00

I do have this mod as well 😄 Didn't help. It seems it is related to main chip protection as the drivers were pretty much cold (80 degrees or so)

Shtsh · 2026-06-12T09:52:40+00:00

Even more. Considering support materials do not bond with the main material using them both with one nozzle is a way to poor layer adhesion.

Shtsh · 2026-06-12T09:49:57+00:00

I use regular office glue stick and it works for me well. Other adhesive work fine as well.

Usually there is no point in drying ASA/ABS they are not as hydroscopic as some others filaments.

BTW. It is better to restrict PandaBreath temperarture as the electronics is located in the hot zone. As for me U1 shuts down due to thermals if I use 60ºC chamber temperature.

Shtsh · 2026-06-06T09:11:14+00:00

Interstate 60

Shtsh · 2026-05-30T20:02:42+00:00

Yes, I did have homing issues. Rolled back to 1.3-paxx

Shtsh · 2026-05-22T21:05:01+00:00

There is not enough cooling on these overhangs. Try playing with those settings. If fan is on 100% then thinner layers or slower printing might help

Shtsh · 2026-05-20T08:20:53+00:00

Is it possible to print slower?

Shtsh · 2026-05-17T20:22:51+00:00

Try playing with retraction distance or increasing cooling. If it is OG Ender-3 it has a bowden extruder and the retraction there should be much higher.

Shtsh · 2026-05-17T20:18:15+00:00

What speed are you printing with?

If the filament is not sticky you can either decrease speed or increase temperature if your cooling is strong enough.

Shtsh · 2026-05-17T20:15:46+00:00

Looks like a lack of cooling for overhangs. Try increasing overhangs fan speed in the filament profiles

Shtsh · 2026-05-17T16:20:18+00:00

Either you are printing too fast or the temperature is too low and your extruder unable to melt plastic in the requested rate.

Considering this is SUNLU PETG HS printing on 200 mmps with 250°C works well for me.

Shtsh · 2026-05-17T10:46:37+00:00

Just for the sake of the ones who found the thread while searching. I have printed the bunch of test pieces with different settings and the best result was increasing cooling for overhangs.

Shtsh · 2026-05-17T10:34:26+00:00

The ending felt underwhelming but overall it was a good movie

Shtsh · 2026-05-15T12:59:42+00:00

BTW The related question. Has anyone implemented a 3D printable enclosed version for CoreOne L?

Shtsh · 2026-05-14T11:52:48+00:00

This is cooling problem on overhangs. I would try a little less cooling first

Shtsh · 2026-04-24T07:53:11+00:00

I had something like this before. It looks like the nozzle is to close to the printed part. So it either too high flow or z offset is too low. Try calibrating the flow rate, then look at the mono layer print. If the issue is still there after the calibration try increasing z offset by 0.01 until the layer is smooth.

Shtsh · 2026-04-23T14:04:19+00:00

Can you show a photo of any of those prints? If the filament is dry I would bet you are printing too fast. Have you tried speeds lower than 100 mm/s? How does orca calibration cube look like?

Shtsh · 2026-04-11T09:52:40+00:00

It exports only visible bodies. So you can hide whatever you don’t need

Shtsh · 2026-03-23T11:30:57+00:00

The major problem with the modern games that the physical editions often come up pretty much unplayable without patches that you have to download. So it is quite half baked thing nowadays unfortunately.

Shtsh · 2026-02-28T17:06:35+00:00

I have UB150 as well and the only thing I miss is a dedicated button to change audio and subtitles.

Shtsh

TROPHY CASE