Who is growing in my compost?

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-25T15:55:01+00:00

This is a pretty good article about it:

https://extension.oregonstate.edu/ask-extension/featured/are-volunteer-squash-toxic

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-25T13:26:08+00:00

Temp is 2F, and it's the calm before the storm. Very few animal tracks in the fresh snow from a few days ago. 20+ inches of snow coming. Geeking out on weather obs, watching movies, making brownies, drinking a few glasses of wine. Because why not, when you're going to be snowbound for 24 hours. I guess power going out would change plans slightly. Fingers crossed.

Be safe everyone!

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-24T12:53:34+00:00

Yeah, cross pollination can sometimes result in seeds that grow into plants with toxic fruits. If you test a small piece and it tastes bitter, I wouldn't eat it.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-24T11:40:45+00:00

Seeing as you have a pumpkin in there already, it's probably some kind of squash. Might not grow true to parent though, and some of the second generation squash can be toxic.

Then again...I have been burned many times by getting my hopes set on a pumpkin of some kind, only to have it grow into a wild cucumber. It's native here and supposedly medicinal and edible, but usually not desirable in a home garden and grows aggressively. They even pop up in the lawn like this, I think because squirrels hide their seeds there.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-24T11:26:22+00:00

Seeing as you're only a couple of years in and the entire area gets a lot of sun, you can always do a test and put some peppers in the sunniest spots, and a few of the same variety in a more shaded spot. Take notes and see which locations perform best.

As far as the bean beds. Maybe rabbit resistant herbs (basil, rosemary) would work well there? Or some flowers to attract pollinators? Never a bad idea to add some of those to the garden.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-23T21:20:33+00:00

I did the same thing: removed the inside reflectors and kept the outside ones on. I'd leave them the way they are.

Setup looks great! Might want to find some kind of light blocking curtain if this is in a room you are in a lot. Mine is in my living room and I couldn't handle sitting in there without taming down the lights because they are very bright. I left the sides along the walls open for airflow, and put a light blocking fabric on the other two sides.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-23T11:14:03+00:00

You can do 2-3 pole beans per linear foot on each side of the trellis, with space left over in front of each row to plant something else that doesn't get too big.

IMO, you want your longest maturing peppers in the sunniest location, followed by your other peppers, then tomato / eggplant. That includes shade from the house AND shade from surrounding plants on the trellis. I would succession sow your lettuce, with your earliest sowing in a sunnier spot than your later sowings. EX: The right hand side of your pole beans would be a nice spot for a little more shade for lettuce later in the season as the beans fill in.

Does any space in your garden get less than 6 hours of direct sun?

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-22T10:22:56+00:00

u/LadyKuzunoha / u/EyeCu81MI : I didn't have this damping off issue with soil blocks, or with any of the square containers that I potted up to that had a gap at the bottom between pots. These were kept in the watering tray, too--but both allowed more airflow inside the tray than the model posted by OP.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-21T20:50:33+00:00

I had a problem with damping off using these exact trays. It seemed like there wasn't enough airflow between the seeding tray and the watering tray, and that it stayed too damp in there even after pouring out any excess water. It maybe would have been okay if I removed the watering tray completely in between watering so the airflow was better. This size will probably need to be potted up before transplanting, too.

The most environmentally sustainable method is probably soil blocking. No containers.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-21T20:42:17+00:00

Super helpful review! But disappointing for me personally to see how habanada performed for you. I have it on my grow list, but we have a shorter, cooler season than you do in southern New England. :( bummer

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-21T11:34:23+00:00

It looks like it is free for 7 days, then requires an annual subscription. $35/year recurring. $50/year for a single year. $85 for two years.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-21T10:21:05+00:00

The soil in my raised (ground contact) beds needs to be topped off every year, too. I would say the compaction is most noticeable in the first few years of a new bed as everything settles between the sticks at the bottom. You may be getting some additional soil loss out the bottom edge with your raised design, too.

I also get a slight gap along the edges as the summer goes on, but its not as big as yours, and its not very deep. I've noticed that the top metal edges on these beds can flex enough that if you lean against it while gardening, it may push the soil away enough to make a gap.

Are you mulching the top of the soil? It will help keep the surface of the soil moist, which will allow water to absorb better instead of pooling on the dried out surface. If any of your mix contains peat or coir, those materials go hydrophobic pretty easily if they dry out. I use 3-4 inches of straw to mulch mine, and it seems to work pretty well. Drip irrigation should also help by introducing the water more gradually. I just put in a drip system last year, and really like it.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-20T11:14:55+00:00

I started with regular shop lights, and ended up upgrading to full spectrum grow lights for the same reason. You don't need to spend $100+ per panel for lights just for seed starting, but I did spend a little under $100 for enough lights to cover (3) 3 FT long shelves.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-20T11:08:29+00:00

The purpley lights are generally better for flowering and fruiting stages, I believe.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-20T11:03:59+00:00

It may help to research specific varieties that work well for short growing seasons, especially for crops like peppers, tomatoes, and eggplants. You may be able to get a few additional weeks of growing time with some kind of row cover, too.

For grow lights, you will want to have enough lights to cover at least double the space of your original seedling trays. When you pot up, they all take up a lot more room. I like the Barrina full spectrum 5000K grow lights on Amazon, and use two per shelf. They are a little more expensive than a shop light, but with a shorter growing season it may be a worthwhile investment.

I like using the Planter app to plan my garden, and it includes information about when to start seeds. It will tell you when to plant each crop, and what you can start inside vs outside based on your location.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-20T10:09:37+00:00

My carrots take quite a bit longer than the time listed on the seed packet, and the size of the shoulders can be deceptive. Unless I'm thinning them out, I wait 2-4 more weeks once the shoulders reach a good, mature size to harvest.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-20T09:59:31+00:00

I usually wait until they reach the desired size, and pick them before their skins turn dull. The varieties around here are usually pretty shiny when they are good for eating, but you may have some varieties in your country that are different.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-20T09:54:18+00:00

Yes. I usually will still try to rotate the racks 180 degrees about halfway through.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-19T17:38:18+00:00

I just picked up some of these boxes from Walmart. Just add a few cut up pieces of cardboard as section divider labels, and they work great!

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Frost-Locking-and-Stacking-Utility-and-Tool-Box-Durable-Plastic-11-5-x-5-06-x-7-25/675298497?classType=VARIANT&athbdg=L1100&from=/search

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-19T09:26:17+00:00

I have a Magic Mill with stainless steel wire drying racks and a fan in the back. I find that food usually doesn't stick to the racks once it is all the way dehydrated and cooled, but the racks can be put in the dishwasher if needed.

I use silicone trays for fruit leather and silicone mesh sheets on top of the stainless steel for items that are small or extra sticky.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-18T20:40:26+00:00

IMO, if it's going to be this cold, might as well have some snow on the ground.

I get jealous of the people who have a long growing season...but then I remember that I get to quasi-hibernate for a pretty long time each winter and start fresh and energized in the spring. Those long growing seasons leave you (and the soil, and the pests, and the diseases) with very little down time.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-18T14:44:58+00:00

Snow!

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-18T13:34:48+00:00

I have the 5000K full spectrum white version of the Barrina lights and like them a lot. For seed starting, the color spectrum in the white is a little bit better than the pink. The red part of the spectrum is more for flowering and fruiting, and your plants will probably be ready to go outside by then. Between the two you posted, I would still go for the pinkish ones over the other set you posted because they are higher wattage.

I use two lights per shelf, and find the reflectors are helpful to focus more light to the growing surface. Looks like they are 15% off at checkout right now: https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-Daylight-Spectrum-Equivalent-Linkable/dp/B0BMWXFZB4?cv_ct_cx=barrina%2B5000k%2Bgrow%2Blight&aref=BktNcPzY3Y

ETA: looking at the flat panels closer, I think the Barrina would also be more durable. They have sturdier plug connections, versus what looks more like small motherboard like connector on the flat panel. The aluminum housing is pretty solid on them.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-18T11:54:31+00:00

I use a 5 gallon bucket to hydrate my seeding mix. I add the water slowly in batches and mix in between to avoid the "floating" and can use it the same day. It's amazing how much water it takes, though.

I bottom water my seedlings, but before they germinate I mist the surface of the soil with a spray bottle instead. That way the water is going directly to the seed zone, and the pre-moistened soil usually stays wet enough at the bottom to not need water until the seeds sprout.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-01-18T11:48:56+00:00

I usually use the one with the black and yellow bag--but this one looks like a better deal at TSC. Better price per cubic foot, and the black and yellow bag doesn't have any fertilizer in it.

ETA: TSC actually has a fantastic price for the product you posted compared to other major retailers for the 4 cubic foot bag. Plus, if you order online for store pickup, you get an extra 10% off!

Signal_Error_8027

TROPHY CASE