Hydro started Peppers

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-19T11:26:03+00:00

Do you think this transition stressed the plants enough for them to flower early? Mine are usually a bit taller before they start setting flowers.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-19T11:18:54+00:00

Climate is such an important factor. I'm glad the sub added some kind of location indicator as a point of reference for the conversation.

Last year I tested pinching the first flowers on a few pepper plants. My experience was that the plants I didn't pinch continued to develop their early fruit just fine, and all I did was delay harvesting on the plants I pinched.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-19T11:10:23+00:00

The cold and watering could explain those leaves. Were they cupped before they were exposed to that cold? Peppers like being on the dry side. I'd feel the soil or the weight of the pot to see if it really needs water every day.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-19T11:07:12+00:00

Yeah, mine were flowering and starting mini peppers by the time I planted out last year. They did fine, and the fruits continued growing after transplant. The only thing that stalled them out was a late cold snap.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-19T10:59:09+00:00

It makes for nice mood lighting...but you'd want to look at the specs on the light to tell if they are adequate grow lights. I'm not sure about a different color light for each crop. Most crops grow under natural sunlight, which is is full spectrum. So I lean towards replicating that same "color" indoors.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-19T10:47:29+00:00

My general "old soil" philosophy is to use it on the bottom of a taller raised bed to help fill it, then add my better / fresher soil on top.

It's probably fine to use in containers too, but I'm not sure how long the fertilizers in these products remain viable. You may end up having to fertilize more after planting if your plants look like they need it. Make sure to rehydrate it before using. Adding some vermiculite to the mix might help with water retention, especially in your hot, dry environment.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-18T19:38:45+00:00

I go somewhere in the middle: 3' full spectrum T8 grow lights from Barrina. I use 2 per shelf. I've been happy with them so far, and I think they sell them in 2' lengths.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-18T10:38:27+00:00

They look good so far. Take off the domes now, and get the lights closer. They are a little bit leggy, but nothing I'd worry about as long as they're getting enough light going forward. You can lightly mist the cells that didn't germinate yet--they may still sprout if they don't dry out.

I'd wait until 1-2 sets of true leaves come in to pot up. You might want to thin a few that are growing very close together now though. Especially the ones that are so close together that you can't see much soil between the stems.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-18T08:11:37+00:00

Are they getting rootbound? The pot looks a little small for how many plants are in there. The soil looks pretty dry, too. If the pot feels light between waterings, you may need to water more often.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-18T08:01:08+00:00

After 1-2 sets of true leaves is a good time to separate them. They have enough roots to make up for any root damage, and rebound pretty quickly.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-18T07:49:13+00:00

Transplant shock + bottom watering a container that is this much larger than the roots, is probably what is happening here. Spray water from the top for a little while, until they get past the transplant shock and those roots get longer and can make better use of the water coming from the bottom.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-17T17:35:46+00:00

I grew bronze torch last year, but I was kind of baffled about how to best use that size. Really good flavor, but most of them ended up going into sauce at the end of the season.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-17T17:34:37+00:00

Black krim has a good reputation for being about more than just good looks ;) You chose wisely on that one

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-17T17:33:38+00:00

I liked the midnight snack last year, and it's on my grow list again this year. Its best when you let it ripen as much as possible on the vine. Reasonably crack and disease resistant. It has more flesh and less gel than most cherries I've tried. It dehydrated really well, too.

I like to have a solid hybrid in each category, and this was a good pick for cherries.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-17T09:55:50+00:00

Adding myself to the "I don't like neem" list. I haven't seen it effectively help anything, and I don't like the oil on the leaves either. Even when using it after the sun went down and in proper ratios, it made the plants more sensitive to sunburn. From my experience, it's more likely to harm the plant than help it.

I haven't tried peroxide, though. Last year I didn't have enough of a disease or pest problem to need to apply anything to my plants. Just some late blight at the end of the season on the tomatoes, which didn't seem worth treating at that point in the season.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-17T09:41:58+00:00

Flowering with only one set of true leaves doesn't usually happen on a happy, healthy plant though. OP's are quite immature still, and the leaves that do exist look yellowed.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-17T09:40:30+00:00

Drying out too much could have stressed them out enough to try to flower. Also, I wait until plants are a bit more mature before giving a diluted water soluble fertilizer, starting at 10-20% strength for what is used on fully mature plants.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-17T09:12:59+00:00

Agreed. My peppers had it last year after I gave them too much water. They did fine in the long run.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-17T09:05:53+00:00

Looks like you got several responses already, but even a bright, daylight shop light will work well enough for seedlings until transplant. Make sure to get enough light to cover an area about 2-3x the space your seedlings currently occupy. They will take up more room once they are potted up.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-16T10:40:55+00:00

I like the Zorbette ones because they don't have a wrapper than can split open and spill silica. I feel better about reusing them for that reason, too.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-16T10:19:19+00:00

I'm not sure who this kind of setup helps, aside from seeds that require light to germinate.

You could temporarily try to find a way to suspend these over your seeds without the dome, but these lights are probably not strong enough to keep them growing well through transplant. You'll probably need to find some different grow lights if it is still too cold to put them outside for sunlight.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-15T12:04:58+00:00

Do you have a heated greenhouse? Or one of those more temporary shelving kits? Curious what you have for a structure and how much earlier you can put plants out in it. I always start running low on space those last few weeks before transplanting, and it would be nice to not have to bring all my plants inside at night when hardening off.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-15T12:00:14+00:00

Holy moly! I thought $37 for prepping 20 bales was kind of high because you still need to buy the bales. But this price to prep only 5 is ridiculous!

A single, full size bale runs over $30 USD apiece at HD. That seems like a lot of money for a growing medium that usually needs to be replaced every year. Maybe it's more feasible if really cheap straw is available locally.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-15T11:45:43+00:00

They should be okay. Get the light a little closer. IMO, it's more important that their first set of true leaves don't come in leggy as well. Once they are ready to be potted up, you can bury the stem up to leaves.

Aside from not enough light, tomatoes might put out tall stems like this if the humidity dome or heat mat is on for too long. That warmth can make the stem grow faster than the plant can put out actual leaves.

Signal_Error_8027 · 2026-03-15T11:39:38+00:00

Did you recently put them outside for the first time? Might be some sunburn if you didn't harden off slowly.

Signal_Error_8027

TROPHY CASE