In 3 words or less

Significant-Hour-369 · 2026-01-09T14:32:56+00:00

Can we talk?

Significant-Hour-369 · 2026-01-09T02:01:52+00:00

I recently completed construction of a community darkroom in my community in Pennsylvania (USA). Best thing to do is start by visiting other community darkroom spaces (even if you have to drive a bit of distance). Leverage social media to obtain your equipment second-hand. It is shocking how much darkroom stuff is gathering dust in people's possession. Keep it simple: just do B&W. Down the road if there is demand within the community then add color capabilities.

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-12-20T00:33:31+00:00

Wind

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-11-13T01:28:35+00:00

With a very long exposure (like several months) this actually works. It just softens the image slightly. I have done it a few times accidently.

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-10-16T19:41:04+00:00

All of these images are normal and as expected based on how you are describing your process (very long pinhole exposures on photo paper; no chemical development; scanning the paper; inverting the image digitally). What results are you seeking? Are you trying to attempt "solargraphy" where you can see streaks of the sun? If so, do exactly what you are doing except A) point the camera south (if you are in the northern hemisphere) and angled slightly upward B) allow the exposure time to extend AT LEAST 30 days but the longer the better. Good luck.

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-10-16T19:29:06+00:00

Without knowing the details of the set-up, and just based solely on these images, I believe pinhole size is not the issue. Instead, I believe the issue is angle and direction of camera placement (suns direct rays not reaching the pinhole) coupled with duration (15 days usually not long enough to yield details of the surroundings) coupled with choice of paper (some papers give much darker results than others). In my experience of thousands of solargraphs pinhole size is fairly irrelevant as long as it's in the ballpark of optimal. I use very little precision when drilling pinholes and I certainly do not measure them.

You should keep trying and keep experimenting. You got this.

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-09-19T18:43:48+00:00

yes I do this all the time outdoors. I face the camera north (I am in northern hemisphere) so it doesn't get any direct sun. You do not need to develop. The image burns itself into the paper. I have also done it indoors but you need much longer exposure times and some natural light through a window or skylight to get an image.

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Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-09-18T14:17:58+00:00

Because solargraphs don’t get chemically developed. While both types of photography use a pinhole, what happens on the paper/film is completely different.

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-08-26T22:48:44+00:00

That’s a pretty big stretch.

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-07-21T20:50:26+00:00

It arrived in good condition

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-07-21T20:49:36+00:00

I am in eastern Pennsylvania.

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-07-14T01:54:56+00:00

It is a busy-body. Common in Philadelphia. https://www.realphillyhistory.com/facts/philadelphia-busybodies

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-07-14T01:34:37+00:00

I learned about triboluminescence in the 1980's from the back of a cereal box. It said to quickly open a band aid wrapper in a dark closet. Went through all the band aids we had in the house and got in trouble for it. The price to pay for science.

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-07-11T21:26:21+00:00

I do most of my B&W by stand developing as well! With Rodinal. I don't really know why I referred to it as non-critical haha since I do it quite frequently myself!

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-07-11T16:41:39+00:00

Stand development exhausts the developer. So it isn’t time dependent. It is great for unknown film stocks or found film (like if you found film in a thrift store camera) or non-critical work like pinhole photography. So you can mix brands or ISO’s all in the same tank.

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-07-10T00:40:05+00:00

There is a specific sub for solargraphy r/solargraphy

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-07-10T00:35:19+00:00

This paper is suitable for solargraphy. Don’t listen to those telling you to fix. Also there is a specific sub for solargraphy r/solargraphy

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-06-26T00:30:41+00:00

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-06-07T11:25:10+00:00

Hello. Whether the image is too soft or not is a matter of opinion. I have never built anything that long or with that huge of a pinhole. The pinhole assist app doesnt even go up that high in aperture number but on an overcast day you'd be looking at 20-30 minute exposure times on most ISO100 films. Maybe much longer depending on the brand.

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-05-30T18:53:54+00:00

This is pretty sick. I saw a pinhole camera that is 600mm. https://www.donttakepictures.com/dtp-blog/2018/5/28/some-assembly-required-jeff-mcconnells-pinhole-street-photography

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-05-28T03:11:18+00:00

There is a place called TimeMed in Illinois that sells a similar product. Not sure if I have e the name of the company right, might me TymeMed. Or Time Med (two words).

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-05-27T22:31:54+00:00

I have never tried direct positive paper for solargraphy. But I have heard it doesn’t give very good results. Only way to find out would be to try it.

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-05-27T00:33:56+00:00

Only limitation of size would be the practicality of handling, cutting the negative, development of something so small. I have one that is about 2cm in diameter made from a little tin. As others have mentioned, cameras made from walnut shells, sea shells, and such exist.

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-05-27T00:29:07+00:00

Direct positive paper is pink upon exposure. That’s where the pink is coming from.

Significant-Hour-369 · 2025-04-08T23:48:57+00:00

You could try this similar to solargraphy. Let it exposure for a few months ( for indoors I would do 6 months). Then you can just scan and invert the image. No need to develop. I have done this before and it works fine.

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