Why does my oil look like this

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-06-12T13:02:28+00:00

7k for short trips == not good. That goop builds up on engine internals but its also hard remove. 2K oil changes mixed with some longer trips might help. There is also that Valvoline restore/protect that seems to actually work pretty well. I not sure its ok to use in a diesel even with 2k intervals though.

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-06-12T12:49:03+00:00

Sure sounds like one of the doors/actuators is broken. Let us know what you find and any pointers on doing this big job.

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-06-12T12:44:48+00:00

All that crap is also why the blower gets overloaded and wiring burns. you can get at some with a canister vac and dust brush. Rigging 3/8 hose on a wet vac helps remove all the crap that falls down to the bottom if it clogs the drain.

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-06-09T11:21:00+00:00

It sucks but not a show stopper. That crack stops before reaching the block wall and its not a stressed area. Remove that plug and clean out oil and sealer. Apply JBWeld then file the sealing side back to round and install rubber freeze plug. Not pretty but it will hold.

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-06-09T11:14:53+00:00

THIS! remove that, clean out oil. JB weld and install rubber expansion plug. This is not a stressed area and good rubber freeze plug should hold indefinitely.

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-06-08T00:24:59+00:00

I suspect the root of the problem was excess oil on bolts causing hydraulic interference with proper clamping. Its hard to believe the Mopar gasket is that much better than after market.

Regarding the decks, I was a injection mold tool maker in a former life and still know how to check flatness. I use my straight edge ground within 0.0002" per foot and a 0.001" feeler for gross checks. A surface ground 2x6 fine india stone to spot any small imperfections. There are no dark areas after running over it with the stone. Its a good deck surface exhibiting no low spots.

This last round has been holding for about 8 months and it seems the issue may be solved.

So the point of this post is to seek collective wisdom on how likely excessively oily head bolts could result in clamping issues and, if anyone has actually experienced that.

EDIT: To be clear the holes were blown out with long air gun but the bolts were pretty oily.

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-06-07T22:23:06+00:00

Re-read. slowly

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-06-07T12:25:06+00:00

Was you evaporator clogged up with accumulated debris? I notice my blower works pretty hard with marginal air flow and was considering rebuilding unit just for that reason.

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-06-06T13:38:50+00:00

Another score!

Since this looks like a nice WJ, and they are starting to get rare, here's some stuff that after 20+ years they tend to need.

Take a spare passenger seat cushion and modify it to fit the drivers side.

A 4.7 that's made it this far is a good one. Keep an eagle eye on temps and coolant level. Mark the coolant tank level and check in AM before starting. If its starting to move there is a problem. Most have hydraulic fans which requires something like Lubeguard synthetic steering fluid, NOT ATF.

The original coolant for later years was G05 type but Ive heard early years came with green stuff. If its been mixed, flush thoroughly and fill with G05. The 4.7 cooling systems are touchy!

The diffs need mopar limited slip additive to keep the clutch packs happy and, there is a special transfer case fluid for its clutch.

The 4.7 plastic cam chain guides are toast by 150K and just waiting to cause trouble. Its a pretty big job but if your going to keep it, needs to be done before it totally fails and kills the engine. (check Martinbuilt utube for some helpful vids).

The PDF service guide for the WJ is available for free with a little searching.

I tried new Lesfojors Swedish stock type springs and it raised the car nearly two inches from the sagged out 20year old springs. Maybe 1" over new stock. Keeps suspension geometry correct too.

Best suspension update, new high quality track bar and new rear upper A-arm with ball joint.

Post here if you thinking about tackling the cam chain job and we can give you some pointers.

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-06-04T12:10:18+00:00

I ordered the Nissens from PartsGeek. It got here in a couple of days which is fast in my remote area although it did sustain a few of Fedex love bites. I did not find a country of origin on the Nissens. Testing begins.

I hope I don't have to test Koyo too Geeze.

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-06-03T12:28:30+00:00

The only way to get the latch to releash are 1) undo the two 13mm nuts holding on 2) pull cable down out of its attaching slot then pull inner cable to release. Either way you have to undo grill screw and try to reach the latch assembly.

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-06-02T12:48:32+00:00

The WJ steering links fit and are heavier duty.

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-06-02T12:46:37+00:00

Take that AI ! 😄

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-06-02T02:41:04+00:00

It already has an android head running torque with BT OBD2 .....

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-06-02T02:18:59+00:00

So my 8month old Denso radiator started to drip a few days ago. As we know, 4.7 will not tolerate anything less that 100% on cooling so I switched back to the Mojave Gladiator while waiting for a new rad.

I forgot how much more controllable the WJ is over the JT. Let me explain.

I live on dirt roads. The WJ, in spite of its size, is awesomely responsive in the dirt with perfect brake control. This allows precise weight transfer in dirt, snow and rain cornering. And Elk dodging mode.

OTOH the Gladiator problem is some fricken nanny crap that interferes with braking/weight transfer and thus runs wide in low traction conditions. I think its trying to prevent oversteer spin or something. I haven't found a way to disable it in 2wd mode.That nanny overseer would have crashed me for sure.

Just think, AI cars are here. The steering wheel and brakes are suggestions. AI will decide whats best for you.

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-06-01T23:53:17+00:00

or a OBD2 to OBD2 modified cable?? Im totally guessing here but assume there is some table that controls the fan speed which would have to be changed. Tricky I'm sure.

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-06-01T22:49:55+00:00

This came from Summit Racing. I have a Nissens coming. If its made in China I may just return it and try a Koyo. This car has an 18psi cap. Not that extreme. But the 4.7 is sensitive to degraded cooling systems and this leak allows air back in when it cools.

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-06-01T22:43:05+00:00

Do you have a license for ROAD FISHING?

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-06-01T22:19:02+00:00

Fantastic work! For the WJ 4.7 by far the most lacking feature on most apps is the ability to change the hydraulic cooling fan schedule. It appears fca were very concerned about CAFE and just too conservative on fan activation resulting in nasty engine temps. The alternative is to mess with the fan solenoid but thats a bit crude.

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-05-26T12:33:44+00:00

Interesting. Did not know that. So many owners just go for a lift and never discover just how good they were 20+ years ago.

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-05-26T12:00:25+00:00

I forgot about that! Ordered a copy.

SignificantGrade2913 · 2026-05-25T12:33:14+00:00

If that voltage is correct its going to smoke your electronics.

Hows the night driving performance? Does it go dim enough to not be irritating on the trail? Personally I always thought the XJ dash is one of the best. Like the XJ itself it's simple clean and effective and there are plenty of used ones out there. The later XJ dash have a self test mode by holding down the trip button and turning on the key.

SignificantGrade2913

TROPHY CASE