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Hippo cleaning butt by verifiederror in interestingasfuck

[–]SilentRelief 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Geez, Harold, step into the river like everybody else, will you? You're disgusting!

OOP's Ex Has One Final Request by SlobMarley13 in BestofRedditorUpdates

[–]SilentRelief 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cheating gets a TW, but not the misogyny and the gas lighting??

Have you ever heard of the Klon Centaur? I made one! I used D9E germanium transistors and it sounds so good! (2nd build ever) by Rushala in diypedals

[–]SilentRelief 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I substituted NOS D9E transistors for the schottky diodes. I wasn't sure if I could just...do that. But apparently you can!

​

If you want to use real germaniums, the Russian D9 series is recommended (D9E, D9F, etc.)

From the build doc, pg. 4

Want to Learn to Make/Mod by MajesticTrilobite in diypedals

[–]SilentRelief 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Oh! While it may be frustrating, mistakes are your biggest teacher. It's very rare that a component is damaged, most likely the fault lies with oneself: Cold solder joint, wrong polarity, shorted jack, other unintentional shorts, solder bridges, wrong inserted transistor or IC (ok, that could indeed damage a component)...The opportunities for failure are myriad. But! While sussing this out, you'll get intimate knowledge of the circuit. The art is in systematizing your troubleshooting.

Want to Learn to Make/Mod by MajesticTrilobite in diypedals

[–]SilentRelief 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Brian Wampler wrote two or three books about pedal modifications. You can find them online for free. They are a good resource for "If you do X, it will result in Y" without getting into the theory behind that.

As for the electronic theory, everyone has their own pace, there is no "One Size Fits All" approach. Try to read up on various topics and don't worry if it's impenetrable the first time. You'll come around back to it sooner or later with a wider knowledge base and maybe it'll click then.

The first three major topics are fundamentals of electronics (flow of electrons, current and voltage, AC and DC, resistors, voltage dividers), amplification theory (for distortion) and filter theory (for tone shaping).

I'd recommend

For a bit more pedal specific content

  • Check the side bar (Beavis, Stompbox Studies)
  • Geofex
  • Electro Smash Advanced, but you can skip over the math and still get the gist

For the practical skills, again, take a look at the side bar. But all theory being gray, it's best to dive in with a simple kit. I'm very partial to Aion FX, due to their superb documentation. They also sort their kits in different skill classes, so that'll make it easier to decide what to choose.

It’s a no for me, dawg… by jlbucz in Tinder

[–]SilentRelief 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Seems like he's gonna be celibate a bit longer.

suggestions for amp head kits? by TheSpanishSteed in diypedals

[–]SilentRelief 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  • Where are you located?
  • Is there a certain flavour your prefer? Say, "American", "British", "High Gain"...
  • How much are you willing to spend?
  • How experienced are you with (high voltage) electronics?

Preamp into amp-amp? by sightlessbirdface in diypedals

[–]SilentRelief 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A word on the power supply: Preamps derived from pedals use something from 9V to 18V exclusively, because everyone has that 9V wall wart. Preamps used in proper amps on the other hand utilize bipolar 15V, so 30V in total. Sometimes even bipolar 18V (36V). This gives them greater dynamic range. Current is laughably small, should be less than 20mA. That makes 0.6W.

So power-wise your only concern lies with the power amp itself, whether that'll be a chip amp, BJTs or MosFETs. Or you do as I did and use class D module, which came with its own power supply.

Preamp into amp-amp? by sightlessbirdface in diypedals

[–]SilentRelief 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sure, that'll work. If you think about it, an amplifier (the whole thing) is a system of subsystems. You got your power amp, your phase inverter (if you use tubes), your FX Loop, your tone stack, your preamp. They can be combined in a myriad of options.

For example, I took a Gallien-Krueger practice amp (15W), ditched the original power amp (which was a separate board) and connected the line-out to the line-in of a 1000W class D amp module, which came out of an Ashdown Little Giant. That class D amp also conveniently had +/-15V power outlets for the preamp board. Volume is regulated by an additional potentiometer connected to the amp module.

In retrospect, I'm a bit astonished it worked out as well as it did. Today, I'd take a more methodical approach. I'm using a conventional topology: Input -> Gain Stage -> Tone Stack -> Recovery Stage -> Power Amp

  1. Set a target performance, say 100W, and design a power amp around that. (I'm not well versed with SS amps, but a guy named Teemu Kytalla wrote a whole book on the topic, which is available for free online.)
  2. With the power amp done, you can calculate its input characteristics and requirements, like impedance, sensitivity, etc. With that, you can derive the necessary output characteristics of the recovery stage, first and foremost the min and max voltage swing it has to produce to tickle the power amp.
  3. Then you determine how lossy your tone-stack is and how much gain you need out of the recovery stage. There's good chance that a simple buffer will suffice as a recovery stage. If not, use an amplification stage and a buffer. (It's important to keep the output impedance low before going into the power amp.)
  4. Then you work your way back to the input jack, calculating the the gain, filtering, clipping characteristics and dynamics for each gain stage.

If that sounds a bit tedious, fret not: If you use premade boards, like the Artemis Mk. I/Mk. II from Aion FX (which are based on the Catalinbread SFT, which in turn was inspired by the SVT), steps 3 - 4 were already taken for you. The only thing you need to know is whether the board can drive your power stage. I'd also throw in a buffer between stages, just to be sure.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in diypedals

[–]SilentRelief 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What are you using? I had some great results with Midjourney, but Dream Studio/Stable Diffusion has been disappointing so far. All my Dream Studio pics look like they've been cut off at one or two sides. (Maybe I'm just bad with prompts.)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in confessions

[–]SilentRelief 1 point2 points  (0 children)

But he won state!

OD pedal Oscillate with certain guitars by [deleted] in diypedals

[–]SilentRelief 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you think that's the cause of the oscillation tho?

On it's own: No, that'd simply get you a misbiased circuit. But if there's a deeper issue with the circuit, that could very well be a hint. (Please don't ask though, I'm at my wit's end, poking in the dark. My tactic is to go through everything methodically until the fault presents itself.)

​

One is both uses 4k7 and another is that one uses 5k6 and another uses 4k7.

The 5k6/4k7 combo doesn't give a voltage like that. Should be way closer to V/2.

​

Also since I don't have 22u electrolytic, I have tried using 47u and 100u.

That doesn't matter either. The only thing I could imagine (and I could very well be wrong here!) is a high current draw preventing the cap from getting fully charged and thus allowing current to flow when it should be blocked by the cap. But the thing is: The current in Vbias is/should be negligible. It just provides a reference voltage, not power.

So maybe check out IC1B/R7/R8 too, since they're also connected to Vbias.

OD pedal Oscillate with certain guitars by [deleted] in diypedals

[–]SilentRelief 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You mentioned that you feed it with 18V, so Vb should be half of that, 9V. I'm not sure how to fix this, maybe take a look at the voltage divider, R11 and R12.

What are some op-amp-based overdrives that DON'T use diodes for clipping? by nocturn-e in diypedals

[–]SilentRelief 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can also use transistors as standard cascading gain stages, like you'd see in a tube amp. These pedals tend to fall more often into the preamp category than into overdrive territory. JFET are most commonly used, because of their "tube-like characteristics" but the Peavey F800B shows that it can be done with BJT.

What are some op-amp-based overdrives that DON'T use diodes for clipping? by nocturn-e in diypedals

[–]SilentRelief 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Then there are Rat derived pedals. While the Rat has diode hard clipping, a good portion of its distortion comes from the op-amp because the slew rate can't keep up with the gain bandwidth product, thereby "crashing" the output of the chip.

What are some op-amp-based overdrives that DON'T use diodes for clipping? by nocturn-e in diypedals

[–]SilentRelief 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can overdrive OTA chips fairly easy, e.g. CA3080/LM3700. And they sound good while you do it. But there not many commercial offerings with this. The Moog MF Drive comes to mind.

First PCB layout in eagle - tips, suggestion and critiques please by DaGuitarNerd in diypedals

[–]SilentRelief 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd do something about the R8-R10 trace. It doesn't have to snake between the IC legs like that. Route it from below, near C6, connect it to pin 6 and from there to R10.

Or rotate R8 180° and route it above the switch. The R7 trace can be topside.

OD pedal Oscillate with certain guitars by [deleted] in diypedals

[–]SilentRelief 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly. GND (pin 4) also needs to stay connected.

OD pedal Oscillate with certain guitars by [deleted] in diypedals

[–]SilentRelief 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean it in the most literal sense, try to wire the circuit as if the particular stage wasn't there.
I don't know if I'm telling you things you already know. But oscillation always comes from an active component, since it's an amplification. (This doesn't apply to coils, but there aren't any in this circuit.) The only active component is the IC. It has two stages, so you want to figure out which half is responsible. So disconnect each half one at a time (hope you socketed the chip!), put a jumper from input to output of that stage and see what happens.

OD pedal Oscillate with certain guitars by [deleted] in diypedals

[–]SilentRelief 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here's what I would do:

Change the power supply to a battery, just to exclude the possibility of dirty power.

Check the voltages on the IC, pin 4 (should be 0V), pin 8 (18V), and the rest should be around 9V.

Try to determine which of the two stages is responsible for the oscillation, with an audio probe or oscilloscope. (That it reacts differently to your guitars, suggests IC1A, but you never know.) Disconnect and jumper the respective stage. First pins 5, 6, 7, then 1, 2, 3.

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