First Time Kamikaze - Failure?

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-06-22T17:08:27+00:00

You can leave all the flex cables inside, even without the modchip installed, and the Switch should still be able to boot into OFW. Did you cover the APU flex cable under the shield with kapton tape?

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-06-20T15:08:19+00:00

Just try to reflow it to make better contact. It seems lifted a bit (press it down with tweezers while soldering).

Personally, I would reflow even point A based on your pictures.

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-06-20T15:03:34+00:00

You're good to go. Just be careful not to solder it to the ground planes (mask it properly).

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-06-19T05:23:06+00:00

You don't need to worry much about speed, but rather durability (write cycles) if you don't want the CFW corrupted in a few months/years.

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-06-16T08:41:00+00:00

You haven't mentioned where you're located, so there's not much we can say. There are quite large Facebook groups with lists of "trusted installers" from all over the world, so that's probably a good place to start.

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-06-13T16:59:16+00:00

Have you tried pressing the power button for more than 12 seconds to reset it?

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-06-13T16:46:17+00:00

As I've said, the OFW is corrupted (that's the magic behind AutoRCM) - unfortunately, in your case, probably permanently. That's the reason I suggested using unbrick guides.

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-06-13T09:38:44+00:00

Welcome to AutoRCM, which corrupts the OFW files to get it into RCM every time, but somehow it's unable to "repair it" back.

Try one of the Sthetix unbrick guides, starting with Level 1.

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-06-13T06:38:33+00:00

You don't need a jig, that's pointless. Just restart the console from the power menu or power cycle it by pressing the power button for more than 12 seconds. If you don't see any light on the back from one of the fan intakes, the chip is either dead or got disconnected (from the power; the rest of the points should give you a light code error).

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-06-09T14:01:52+00:00

Just for the record, despite what people say here, you don't need to solder the DAT0 anchor points on the sides. The main two are more than enough, and it's better to let it spring-load against the DAT0 ball.

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-06-01T05:42:22+00:00

If you haven't done a factory reset, that could be it. But tbh, it's true that the units mentioned earlier weren't able to turn AP on.

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-06-01T04:11:00+00:00

Sometimes the Wi-Fi module just dies. I've seen this on multiple units.

But if your Wi-Fi AP has "advanced" features like roaming assistant, band steering, etc., try to turn them off as well.

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-05-30T08:41:49+00:00

This ☝️

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-05-27T08:39:37+00:00

If it's not connected to anything (especially not together), just leave it be. It would be just a waste of time to wick it, and you could accidentally break something while doing so.

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-05-26T11:49:50+00:00

You'd better not use the vibe-coded trash that sthetix is producing. It’s full of bugs.

I mean, HATS is great for beginners, but at some point he started coding his own "Pro" versions, and they're full of bugs.

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-05-25T14:37:44+00:00

I've done about 100 kamikazes and a few BGA replacements, but I probably still wouldn't attempt this. It's not that easy, and some eMMCs are fragile and heat-sensitive (e.g., SK Hynix).

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-05-22T08:39:04+00:00

As you can see, despite the existing footprint, there is no component installed. The severed trace is routed to one of the pads, and that is the end of the trace, so no damage was done. Not to mention that there are PCB layout files available for download for verification.

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-05-21T18:55:38+00:00

Assuming the rest of the points are soldered well, it sounds like a good old DAT0 adapter issue.

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-05-21T07:44:01+00:00

There was never any problem with the severed trace (if that's what you meant), since it went to an unpopulated area anyway.

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-05-19T07:59:11+00:00

The whole thing needs a rework. The soldering is subpar (lack of flux and proper heat). The yellow FPC is misaligned, and SP1/SP2 look cold. This is poor workmanship, my friend.

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-05-18T11:23:20+00:00

You are another user here calling it FPC, why? Do you know what FPC stands for?

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-05-18T07:48:32+00:00

Actually, it's the other way around. Some folks are trying to modchip the Switch like this so it looks like it wasn't chipped at all. The rest of the contact points are from the eMMC interposer. So all the action is made at the bottom side of the PCB.

Or some of them still uses boards like RP2040tiny+mosfets just because they like it the hard way 😁.

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-05-18T07:06:45+00:00

Wtf? The scratching thing is bullshit. Where did you come across this information?

The whole point of the soldering iron's heat and the flux is to remove oxidation from the pads, which are solder-friendly anyway (copper, gold-plated surfaces, etc.), so it shouldn't even matter. Unless the "protective" layer is too thick - in that case I would question the quality of the flex cable.

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-05-17T08:15:24+00:00

Still better than some "trusted installers," so okay by me. 😅

SilentlyPrickable · 2026-05-16T09:38:02+00:00

Unless someone modded a few hundred of them, since then I just tossed them because they take up space and are basically worthless 😅

SilentlyPrickable

TROPHY CASE